steve200TDi Posted May 28, 2018 Author Share Posted May 28, 2018 18 minutes ago, Soren Frimodt said: Great stuff Steve, bet its a blast! You could give the ignition system a good drowning in Silicone spray before the event, Works quite well Yep, its great fun and I enjoyed myself! I might try that at the next event if there's puddles! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve200TDi Posted May 28, 2018 Author Share Posted May 28, 2018 Our fastest lap from last weekend. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve200TDi Posted May 28, 2018 Author Share Posted May 28, 2018 Also I've noticed the tyres are starting to show signs of wear, obviously there's loads of life left in them, but I just thought it was interesting! I must remove the steering box for a rebuild as there's slack in the box and I've adjusted the hex screw on the top as far as it will go. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted May 29, 2018 Share Posted May 29, 2018 Haha that tyre has got a good rippin' ! Reminds me of my very first visit to an ALRC event when I was but a young teenager, I was amazed at how the tyres got torn to pieces especially on the Simmonites racer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve200TDi Posted June 8, 2018 Author Share Posted June 8, 2018 I took the steering box out to try to tighten the slack in it and if I could I would renew the input and put put seals. I removed the output shaft by removing the 4 bolts on top of the box and gently sliding the shaft out. You need to position the output shaft in a certain position for it to come out! I freed off the adjusting pad here and had to make a special out of an old 17mm socket and a piece of steel. It's a lot easier to renew the seals when the box is off the car! So the box is tight and it has new seals. Time will tell how well it works and if it leaks at the next race! Fingers crossed! In removing the whole steering system I noticed the adjuster bracket for the PAS pump had sheered! So I've made a start on making a repair.....quite satisfying really, I got to use the bandsaw and piller driller with some filing thrown in too! What's slightly annoying is the bracket is held on with bolts that hold the water pump on, so as soon as you loosen the coolant comes out, so I'll leave it on and weld it on in situ! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Hiatt Posted June 19, 2018 Share Posted June 19, 2018 On 27/03/2018 at 10:37 AM, steve200TDi said: We ended up doing 4 lap stints with our times constantly coming down from 9:26 to our fastest of 8:43. The fastest time was set by this thing powered by a Chevy LS engine with independent suspension. I quite liked it Hi, was good event and an interesting thread I've run a manual shift auto for years, has quite a bit going for it. If you want to go quicker then you really need to walk the course, I like to walk it twice, cheapest way to better results. Hope you keep enjoying it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted June 20, 2018 Share Posted June 20, 2018 12 hours ago, Steve Hiatt said: If you want to go quicker then you really need to walk the course, I like to walk it twice, cheapest way to better results. Now there's some wisdom! Reminds me of similar results marshalling one of the Slindon challenges - the big boys ploughed in and made a spectacular mess, the two lads in the stock-ish truck walked it, talked it, thought about it, and THEN drove it and got one of the best times of the day Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted June 20, 2018 Share Posted June 20, 2018 PPPPPP covers it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve200TDi Posted July 1, 2018 Author Share Posted July 1, 2018 A cracking day today. I thoroughly enjoyed the short 2.3 mile course at Copford Sawmill. All 15 laps completed with only a minor PAS leak, but the offending union was tightened up! Pictures and video soon! Steve 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve200TDi Posted July 6, 2018 Author Share Posted July 6, 2018 With the hot weather set to continue I knew that Sunday was going to be hot, but fortunately it turned out ok with a slight breeze throughout the day. That didn't mean that it would be plain sailing with people not overheating! Copford Sawmill is a small sight with the added restriction of trying not to churn up the fields completely and so we kept to the perimeter of the fields and used all the available wooded areas, which were very tight! The course was around 2.3 miles and so a target of 15 laps was set! To begin with a large queue formed as the course was short, so I quickly joined the queue as I thought it would be tight to get all the laps in. I kept at it until lunch time when I had developed a PAS leak! We let it cool and checked it over. At first I thought it was a leak from the input or output seals, but then found out that one of the unions on top of the box had started to come loose (after I had refitted it last week!) and that there was a drip from the input seal. I checked with race control on how many laps I had to do and surprisingly I had already done 9 out of the 15 and quite a lot of the field had only done 4-6. We topped the pas system up and went for 1 lap with the intention of coming in and checking the level. The leak did reduce but we still had to mop up a small leak. By about mid afternoon we had completed all our laps, which was a relief! There was still about 6 vehicles still completing their laps and about 11 vehicles that had retired. I thoroughly enjoyed this round as the course was a mixture of fields and tight wooded sections, it was almost like going off roading! The final times haven't been published yet, but from the times I did see we are all quite close as there weren't many long straights. They range from 5:15 to 6:30 and I was around the 6 min mark. For the next round I will be swapping out the steering box and fitting a cooler on the return line, as some of you have said that the fluid does get hot, but it doesn't affect the operation of the steering, but it may allow the oil to escape easier out of the seals! I also have a video of the last lap and a lap of the front suspension which I may put up - interestingly the axle didn't hit the bump stop! More photos and videos here: 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted July 6, 2018 Share Posted July 6, 2018 I'd definitely be interested in the suspension video Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve200TDi Posted July 6, 2018 Author Share Posted July 6, 2018 (edited) I'll have a look, but even I don't think it's that exciting! But that doesn't mean I wont do it again! Steve Edited July 6, 2018 by steve200TDi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve200TDi Posted July 6, 2018 Author Share Posted July 6, 2018 My last lap, which was a 5:59 with added GPS and speed goodness! But I haven't worked out how I change it to mph!! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedLineMike Posted July 8, 2018 Share Posted July 8, 2018 in regards to your steering fluid situation, id also suggest changing to a better fluid, I use the Redline synthetic steering fluid for my hydro steer, I have a temp sensor mounted into the reservoir to monitor/ log the temps & it seems to spend most of its time around 50c Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve200TDi Posted July 8, 2018 Author Share Posted July 8, 2018 That is interesting as someone at work mentioned you can get better pas fluid. I'll have a look at that as that would save space. I could do that and add a second reservoir and may sort it. I seem to think now that you can have hot steering fluid and it doesn't affect your steering and so having cooler fluid has got to help. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedLineMike Posted July 8, 2018 Share Posted July 8, 2018 id suggest using a larger single reservoir, rather than 2 reservoirs, I know allisport did a simple large reservoir which I have used in the past, https://www.allisport.com/shop/motorsport-products/allisport-high-capacity-aluminium-power-steering-reservoir-interior-baffles/ watching your video im surprised by the about of kickback through the wheel you are fighting with Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve200TDi Posted July 9, 2018 Author Share Posted July 9, 2018 I'll investigate all my options and see what I can come up with. Regarding the steering, the video was of the last lap and it turned out that the drop arm had gradually started to work loose, not because of the nut coming loose as I had fitted a new proper lock washer, but because it had worked further on to the output shaft. I have had this a few times now where I have had to tighten up the nut, now whether this is due to warm out parts I'm not sure. I'll be changing the steering box for the next race, but if that leaks I'll buy a new recon unit. Also regarding the steering I'm not running a steering damper and I have wheel spacers. Both could be sorted for the next race to try and calm the steering down. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted July 9, 2018 Share Posted July 9, 2018 21 minutes ago, steve200TDi said: I'll investigate all my options and see what I can come up with. Regarding the steering, the video was of the last lap and it turned out that the drop arm had gradually started to work loose, not because of the nut coming loose as I had fitted a new proper lock washer, but because it had worked further on to the output shaft. I have had this a few times now where I have had to tighten up the nut, now whether this is due to warm out parts I'm not sure. I'll be changing the steering box for the next race, but if that leaks I'll buy a new recon unit. Also regarding the steering I'm not running a steering damper and I have wheel spacers. Both could be sorted for the next race to try and calm the steering down. Steve Surely that is the drop arm coming loose because the nut has come loose. There's no force making it want to move further onto the output shaft? :Loosing the wheel spacers and fitting a damper will kill a lot of the kickback you're getting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve200TDi Posted July 9, 2018 Author Share Posted July 9, 2018 At first I only had rubbish lock washer which I thought was coming unlocked causing the nut to loosen, so before the last race I rebuilt the steering box and fitted a proper lock washer like this: http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/2411/AEU4025-STEERING-BOX-DROP-ARM-NUT-LOCK-TAB-WASHER.html And tightened the nut up as tight as possible before bending over the lock washer. Now the arm is loose on the output shaft with the lock washer still nice and locked, so I can only think that due to the harshness of racing the arm has wiggled about causing to move up the shaft and seat on a further or it's actually wearing the shaft away. I thinks its the first, but it is bizarre and I have had it before on my other land rovers too! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted July 9, 2018 Share Posted July 9, 2018 Yep me too Steve, I think also if a second hand box, rust/crud ( even a tiny amount) works its way off the splines making the drop arm move and come lose. Be worth checking the arm splines to see if they are getting worn, otherwise it will be a recurring problem as the arm will be rocking back and forth on them which will produce the same results -except by wearing them even more.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve200TDi Posted July 9, 2018 Author Share Posted July 9, 2018 Yep exactly, I did make a point of cleaning and checking the splines! I know now to periodically check it until it stops coming loose! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted July 9, 2018 Share Posted July 9, 2018 IMO it can only be wear of the splines then. There's no force to push it onto the steering box further, wiggling it back and forth isn't going to make it ride up the splines as it would get tighter. Unless its made of some kind of antigravity material! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted July 9, 2018 Share Posted July 9, 2018 The splines in the arm do wear and then no matter how much you tighten the bugger up it just loosens again. If you don't end up replacing the box because of leaks then try just a new arm. I think the splines wear from having been loose once, then they no longer fit properly and will continue to wear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted July 9, 2018 Share Posted July 9, 2018 On 7/6/2018 at 8:41 AM, steve200TDi said: There was still about 6 vehicles still completing their laps and about 11 vehicles that had retired. That pretty much sums up offroad motorsport; It is not about who is best, it is about who is left. 12 hours ago, landroversforever said: 12 hours ago, steve200TDi said: Also regarding the steering I'm not running a steering damper and I have wheel spacers. Both could be sorted for the next race to try and calm the steering down. Simbughinnis used to run 2 dampers for this reason; one in front of the axle and one behind. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon W Posted July 18, 2018 Share Posted July 18, 2018 Some disco 2s have a power steering cooler as standard, so you could try one of those, well mine does. To be honest my old VW T4 had a cooler on the steering as standard as well and always thought it was strange that Land Rovers didn’t have them. But bigger reservoir could be the answer, at least when it is leaking you won’t have to top it up so often 😂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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