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5 minutes ago, Jon W said:

Some disco 2s have a power steering cooler as standard, so you could try one of those, well mine does. To be honest my old VW T4 had a cooler on the steering as standard as well and always thought it was strange that Land Rovers didn’t have them. 

But bigger reservoir could be the answer, at least when it is leaking you won’t have to top it up so often 😂

 

Thanks Jon, good to know!

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2 hours ago, Jon W said:

Some disco 2s have a power steering cooler as standard, so you could try one of those, well mine does. To be honest my old VW T4 had a cooler on the steering as standard as well and always thought it was strange that Land Rovers didn’t have them. 

Land Rovers have long steel pipes, don't underestimate how much heat those lose - the Freelander has a simple loop of steel pipe as the steering cooler.

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I've seen the boiling PAS fluid issue many times on comp racers. Fitting a decent size (12" square) cooler seems to fix the issue.

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8 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:

Land Rovers have long steel pipes, don't underestimate how much heat those lose - the Freelander has a simple loop of steel pipe as the steering cooler.

That's how it was done on the Merc i broke for my engine. It was a loop of pipe across the front about 1.5-2m total length.

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I imagine that those steel pipes being clamped directly to the front cross member also aids cooling. Like a big heatsink.

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7 hours ago, daveturnbull said:

I've seen the boiling PAS fluid issue many times on comp racers. Fitting a decent size (12" square) cooler seems to fix the issue.

Any thoughts on whether fitting a bigger pulley to slow the pump down might help? Just thinking if it's running at high revs for prolonged periods you're recirculating a large volume of oil, heating it up each time through the pump...

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From my experience of comp safari's they are not like being on a race track where you wring every last rpm out of the engine 100% of the time, there is often a lot of slower technical driving in there too, and it's easier to plop the car in a single gear and bounce round those bits rather than flicking up and down to keep the revs high. Plus, you want a high flow rate to keep up with all the turning. 

Can't say I've known anyone to change the pulley, but lots have coolers in the return line. Must be a good reason for that. 

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17 hours ago, daveturnbull said:

From my experience of comp safari's they are not like being on a race track where you wring every last rpm out of the engine 100% of the time, there is often a lot of slower technical driving in there too, and it's easier to plop the car in a single gear and bounce round those bits rather than flicking up and down to keep the revs high. Plus, you want a high flow rate to keep up with all the turning. 

Can't say I've known anyone to change the pulley, but lots have coolers in the return line. Must be a good reason for that. 

ive changed the pulley size on my pump to slow it down as it was cavitating at high RPM,

 

checked the temps at the weekend whilst out testing & highest i seen was around 65'C 

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I've fitted a different steering box and today I fitted a cooler for the PAS system.

A 13 row cooler I think will do the job. I have left the pipes long as I'm not sure on placement and I might move it, so they may get shortened in the future.

That's all done, I've packed my tools and fuel so I'm ready for Sunday's race over at Bilsington Priory. We've had a bit of rain here today and apparently over at Ashford, so it may not be completely bone dry, we'll see.

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Lets see what Sunday brings!

Steve

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Bon Courage !!!!

 

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Another successful days racing!

We knew the weather wasn't going to be dry, but in the end it was just a bit of drizzle and windy too.

The course was 40/60 split of grassy fields and tight woodland. The grass was going to be slippery and the woodland was long and tight. The course length was 5 miles and we were tasked with completing 9 laps.

I set off cautiously on my first lap and had a few slippery grass moments where I was a passenger! I genuinely thought my brakes had failed at one point, but no I must have applied them a little to quickly and locked up all 4 wheels. I then braked earlier and slower there after. I continued to complete my laps. The new steering box performed well with the addition of the cooler, nice and tight and the cooler was just warm to the touch.

I did manage to clip a tree which bent the rear wheel arch support (quite a bit) and ripped the wheel arch. With a bit of brute force we were able to straighten the tube and with the aid of cable ties we were back out. That was the only drama I had and I went on to complete the 9 laps. A third of the course retired again and so I came away with full points again which was good.

The next race is at the end of September at Brick Kiln Farm near Alton which should be fun!

I will check over the rear wheel arches, try and fit a steering damper or two and maybe start looking into new body work for next year as that can be done offline!

A video and photos are still to come!

Steve

 

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Good news about the new steering cooler.

Racing at Brick Kiln....? It's been a good few years since that last happened!

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2 hours ago, daveturnbull said:

Good news about the new steering cooler.

Racing at Brick Kiln....? It's been a good few years since that last happened!

I was just thinking that, last I had heard it was basically closed to 4x4's.

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It's official, I've checked, and we are racing at Brick Kiln. It should be interesting judging on how small the site is, quite looking forward to it actually!

Steve

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A closer look at what can happen when you get to near a tree! Quite impressive really as it's quite thick wall tubing, circa 3mm. We did manage to do 'a field' repair with a wheel brace to two people pulling on it!

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A more substantial repair has been done to the wheel arch ready for Slindon this weekend!

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And when we got home the racer was clean!

Steve

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Well it was an eventful weekend at Brick Kiln farm!

Yes, I rolled it on the fourth lap! 

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And no I didn't get any GoPro footage :(

I think I over corrected while trying to brake to go through some arrow markers and the drivers side dug in and I rolled over 1 or 2 times.

Luckily I have only sustained body work damage with only one tube that needs replacing.

So it's it's into the winter rebuild early! The body work was going to be changed anyway and I will get rid of the rear truck arches as they have served me ok for this year, but hasn't really been a good solution, so there will be a redesign for next year.

A few other people rolled as well, so I wasn't alone!

The course was very bumpy, rutted and dry. One team broke there rear axle casing it was so rough!

Event photos to follow.

Steve

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Ouch! Hope you're not sore! 

What's your plan with the body style? Same again or going to change it?

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Oh yes, I forgot to add that I'm ok! The hans device did its job as I felt the straps go tight a few times so limiting my neck movement!

Regarding body work, I'm not sure yet. The front needs more visibility and more streamline, pleasing to the eye! The rear needs smaller wheel arches that don't stick out so much and maybe some sort of boot lid to cover the rear.

And maybe in plastic/fiberglass or thin ali.

Steve

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You're going to need Jaffa Cakes... lots of Jaffa Cakes!

 

Glad you're OK, although you did break rule #1 by not getting it on camera!

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I did! I wont do it again........that's rolling and forgetting the camera 😂

Right, the rear truck arches have gone in the bin!

The rear axle is leaking from multiple places and I think I need some new bushes too, so off it came!

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Yep, we need new bushes!

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And also one of the axle holes had ovalised and one of the welds had broken, so I chiseled it off and make a new one. Using a 48mm hole saw in some 3-4mm plate and a 5/8 drill to make a nice tight fitting hole. I pressed in some new bushes and bolted it up and tacked it in place!

The diff pan has been previously repaired and I've put some weld on there too, so I thought about fitting a new diff pan, but I've just welded it up again after finding all the cracks and will fit a wrap around diff guard for next year.

The diff got resealed and I also fitted a new pinion seal and drive flange too!

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It's all ready to go back on!

The shocks got a clean too. There still perfect, so my mocking up and flexing tests paid off as they have no rubbing marks, the rose joints a still perfect and the mounting tabs are all still intact too!

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Steve

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Guessing the spare axle case wasn’t for this one then? Actually you could have taken the front axle case with you as the mounts would be correct for your radius arms???

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On 7/19/2018 at 12:47 AM, FridgeFreezer said:

Land Rovers have long steel pipes, don't underestimate how much heat those lose - the Freelander has a simple loop of steel pipe as the steering cooler.

Left hand drive Land Rovers has no lengths of steel pipes at all because all components are situated on the left side. Just rubber hoses, so practicaly no additional cooling..

The older LR's (seventies/first half eighties) had a quite big metal oil tank with a filter element which doubles somewhat as a cooler. The later ones have just a small plastic ZF tank also used in normal passenger cars. In those passenger cars they use practically all a length of pipe for cooling, mostly in front of the radiator.

 

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On 11/20/2018 at 10:23 PM, Jon W said:

Guessing the spare axle case wasn’t for this one then? Actually you could have taken the front axle case with you as the mounts would be correct for your radius arms???

It was/is as to make a new rear axle I need to cut all the brackets off and weld on front brackets. A front axle would be too short, but I do have one of these at home too!

Steve

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