Eightpot Posted September 12, 2015 Share Posted September 12, 2015 TD5 with a blown head gasket - taken the lid off and noticed number 1 seems to have valve contact with the piston. No denting though, its just carbon that has transfered, and I've been able to scrape off. Wondering if this has happened due to compressed water transfering carbon, or if the valves aren't quite closing properly? Cant feel any play in the piston vertically. No marks on any other piston, and this seems to be the only one affected by hgf. Concerned it might be a problem with a gudgeon pin or bearing, though I'd expect some damage if there was serious contact.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted September 13, 2015 Share Posted September 13, 2015 If the cylinder had enough water in it to prevent the piston rising as far as it should, then the result is a bent conrod. As the pistons rise in pairs you can easily compare one with the other at TDC. If a small amount of water has been getting in the cylinder, but causing no damage, then over time the valves and chamber get steam cleaned. TD5 tappets are adjustable, so if the valve isn't closing properly, then it might get close enough to the piston crown to transfer carbon. Check the valves in the head. With the head off they should be fully closed. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eightpot Posted September 13, 2015 Author Share Posted September 13, 2015 Checked the piston height at tdc today, and it's at .89mm ..below the deck! Bugger- piston also doesn't move for about 20 degrees of rotation around tdc, so probably bent rod and damage to gudgeon pin hopefully. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eightpot Posted September 13, 2015 Author Share Posted September 13, 2015 Got thou to mm conversion wrong - its over 3mm below the deck.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted September 13, 2015 Share Posted September 13, 2015 That's bad. You most likely have just a bent conrod, but I would do the big ends as well. They will have taken a heavy shock. Gudgeon pin may well be ok, as they are sturdy things. Mind you - dwell for 20 deg is bad and just a bent rod won't do that. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eightpot Posted September 14, 2015 Author Share Posted September 14, 2015 Well piston whipped out, and surprisingly the conrod isn't bent at all, but the bearing shells are very badly mauled - one half is almost worn through and the surface is like a crocodiles back. Unfortunately the crank journal is badly scored, so good chance this engine is going in the bin.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted September 14, 2015 Share Posted September 14, 2015 Oh nasty..... crank regrinds aren't that expensive though? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eightpot Posted September 14, 2015 Author Share Posted September 14, 2015 Yeah, to be fair the parts to rebuild are cheaper than expected, but a decent rinning engine can be had for £600 and I can still sell off the decent bits of the duff engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted September 14, 2015 Share Posted September 14, 2015 Where are you finding TD5s for £600? o.O Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eightpot Posted September 14, 2015 Author Share Posted September 14, 2015 Plenty of 10p engines advertised around that price range, which is as much as I'd want to pay for a 15 year old engine to be fair.. Not had the head checked for cracks yet, but if it turns out to be ok I think I'll just repair this engine - only a few bolts off getting the crank out anyway! Mind you, I've got a nice 300tdi sitting in a corner of the workshop- starting to look tempting.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jode Posted September 20, 2015 Share Posted September 20, 2015 Plenty of 10p engines advertised around that price range, which is as much as I'd want to pay for a 15 year old engine to be fair.. Not had the head checked for cracks yet, but if it turns out to be ok I think I'll just repair this engine - only a few bolts off getting the crank out anyway! Mind you, I've got a nice 300tdi sitting in a corner of the workshop- starting to look tempting.. But the TD5's an interesting challenge - all those electonics, needing to buy in a nanocom or hawkeye.. I'd stick with the TD5 if I had the choice, if only for the 'fun' of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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