Boydie Posted October 11, 2015 Share Posted October 11, 2015 I've got my Disco up on ramps, getting the transfer box out to fit a new Ashcroft differential was fairly easy, to a certain extent after fitting the three guide studs it was gravity assisted and restrained with a sling from inside the cabin, but it's too low for a transmission hoist of any type so, any advice would be appreciated - bear in mind you're talking to a 68yo pensioner who gave up lifting weights about the same time I gave up exercising with a Black Edition of Penthouse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arjan Posted October 11, 2015 Share Posted October 11, 2015 I have made a cradle for that on wheels - but our 110 & 90 are higher on their wheels - and that is in high demand... Most people have a go and lift it while under the vehicle - not a smart thing to do unless you are into weight lifting. Some people fit a good solid beam inside the vehicle against the veiling and after rolling it under the vehicle lift it through a pulley attached to said beam. Be sure to to support the thing before getting under the vehicle again. Pulley attached to enginehoist also works usu. quite well. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted October 11, 2015 Share Posted October 11, 2015 I get it under the truck roll it on to the jack support it and jack into position. A friend has a frame the bolts to the t-box so you have a flat surface to jack on (drawings in the lr workshop manual iirc). Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GW8IZR Posted October 11, 2015 Share Posted October 11, 2015 ^^^ On a 90/110 I lift them through the hole in the seat box with a wire winch puller thing. RRC and D1 - only did it once and it wasnt fun but I made a block of wood to fit the bottom of the sloping bit and ratchet strapped it to my trolley jack, then using long studs for alignment kinda worked it into place. I stood the back of the truck on a couple of low ramps to gain a bit of crawl space and as a little tip, to do a bit of fine adjustment a hi-lift under the tow bar to move the body/chassis/ground relationship just a couple of inches. ( not talking about lifting the vehicle, just moving it on the springs a bit) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted October 11, 2015 Share Posted October 11, 2015 I've not done one with the rest of the car round it (mine came out with the fork lift and the rest of the gearbox), but I'd use my transmission jack to get it back up there. Or if that wasn't tall enough, I'd use my big trolley jack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete3000 Posted October 11, 2015 Share Posted October 11, 2015 draper hi-lift (500mm) trolley jack with a draper transmission cradle on, gearbox is secured over top with a chain. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Transmission-Adaptor-Gearbox-Trolley-Support/dp/B00S1TYK8U Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted October 11, 2015 Share Posted October 11, 2015 Two guys lifting, or with a transmission jack if available. Close to the ground... not sure, will probably find out when we do a friend's on the driveway... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted October 11, 2015 Share Posted October 11, 2015 Done one the manual way, that's not fun at all. Borrowed a jack/adaptor the second time - made it a hundred times easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TSD Posted October 12, 2015 Share Posted October 12, 2015 As miketomcat says, the workshop manual has the drawings for the correct cradle. I made one up out of scrap angle. Weld a spigot (I used a security wheelnut iirc) on the bottom to suit the trolley jack, and then the only heavy lifting is loading it onto the jack under the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted October 12, 2015 Share Posted October 12, 2015 I used my legs; lie under the car with the box on your knees with a bit of foam between your knees and the box. Bend your legs upwards, once your up and move to the left onto the boltholes, fit 2 bolts with your hands, done. On their own, the boxes are not heavy, loose the brake drum and it becomes pretty manageable. Daan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted October 12, 2015 Share Posted October 12, 2015 fortunately, these days i'm lucky enough to have a 4 post ramp and transmission jack. before that i had to lie on my back and lift it in. not a nice job. easy to damage seals when you are struggling with it. i would highly recommend making or buying a cradle to jack it up with, even better if you have a jack with 4 omnidirectional castors. its the shape more than the weight which makes it awkward. 75% of the weight is within the output portion of the box, rather than around the part which you are trying to align Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted October 12, 2015 Share Posted October 12, 2015 when you bolt it back in, make sure the bolts which thread into the transfer box from the front aren't too long as they can foul on the gear inside creating a lot of swarf in not a lot of time. once back together put the gearbox in neutral and transfer box in gear, and difflock and rotate the output. as you know it should be free and smooth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted October 12, 2015 Share Posted October 12, 2015 when you bolt it back in, make sure the bolts which thread into the transfer box from the front aren't too long as they can foul on the gear inside creating a lot of swarf in not a lot of time. once back together put the gearbox in neutral and transfer box in gear, and difflock and rotate the output. as you know it should be free and smooth. Maybe I'm forgetting something.... but I can't think of any bolts into the transfer box? Are you meaning the two M10 studs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted October 12, 2015 Share Posted October 12, 2015 I managed it, under my RRC with no jacking (on a 2" lift), was very, very heavy lift, with my head sat in the transmission tunnel, bent awkwardly. I would build the cradle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted October 13, 2015 Share Posted October 13, 2015 Done one the manual way, that's not fun at all. Borrowed a jack/adaptor the second time - made it a hundred times easier. My first one I lifted by hand on my own from inside the Defender and that was painful as well as not fun (at 68 you won't be doing that). My 2nd one was helping James so we had the adaptor plate and two people! This is what I recommend You will need to raise your disco a bit to get everything underneath though if I remember correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted October 13, 2015 Share Posted October 13, 2015 With my recent series conversion I must have lifted the LT230 in 5~6 times. Each time I had one of my sons in the cabin who gave a helping hand to lift the t-case into place while I was underneath lifting. The extra set of hands made it possible for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted October 13, 2015 Share Posted October 13, 2015 Maybe I'm forgetting something.... but I can't think of any bolts into the transfer box? Are you meaning the two M10 studs?Bottom front face bolt trust me if you remove it with oil in you get wet very quickly.Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted October 13, 2015 Share Posted October 13, 2015 We must have our wires crossed then.... oil must be from the main gearbox then Mike? The only threaded holes in the Transferbox are for the two studs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted October 13, 2015 Share Posted October 13, 2015 No transfer box it may or may not be a stud or the very bottom one but one of them definitely isn't a blanked hole. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted October 13, 2015 Share Posted October 13, 2015 No transfer box it may or may not be a stud or the very bottom one but one of them definitely isn't a blanked hole. Mike Definitely a stud so should in theory stay in the LT230. Spent enough time recently measuring and drawing LT230 related stuff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Posted October 13, 2015 Share Posted October 13, 2015 It's all bolts on mine, no studs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted October 13, 2015 Share Posted October 13, 2015 Interesting.... On every one I've had dealings with, the only two with threads cut in the transfer box case are studs. Including my freshly build ashcroft box. As seen here: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted October 13, 2015 Share Posted October 13, 2015 Maybe I'm forgetting something.... but I can't think of any bolts into the transfer box? Are you meaning the two M10 studs? Those 2 m10 threaded holes which you will see on that .pdf I sent you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted October 13, 2015 Share Posted October 13, 2015 I guess some earlier boxes have bolts were you have studs because I've definitely taken bolts out of them. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted October 13, 2015 Share Posted October 13, 2015 I'll check the box I have in bits in the workshop to see what serial number it is, I think its a 1.6? Wonder if its dependent on what model the box came out of? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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