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Grinding noise coming from transfer box.


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I mean the cages when the shaft is out of the housing.

I do believe that when it was just after taking the cover plate off some play in the input shaft bearing, but perhaps that's because it's tension is now released as the outer rave is retained by the cover plate bolts.

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Well the cages just felt slack. I think there was too.much movement when assembled.  Could that cause these symptoms? Does the position of the output spline and input gear matter?  I mean as long as is on the spline.

I want to start her up and run the box in its own,  is that allowed without oil?

 

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Can't really hear anything running the gearbox on its own.  So i don't think it's output shaft.  i guess i need to put that gear back in.
 

Should the oils be recycled seperately or together?.

Which oils should i be putting in?


Any recommendations would be helpful.

Thank you.

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EP90 in the LT230, ATF in the LT77.

I think the filings you found are the symptoms of whatever is causing the noise, not the ailment itself.  Running the gear box wet but unfilled should do no harm as it has no load, but will be noisier and could mask the worrisome noises.  I don't think running it without a load on it is likely to reveal the fault, either, but there is no harm in trying for a short period.

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Ok,  yes I've just looked it up in the manual.  So any equivalent.  Am i going the right way by putting the gear back in?  Or should i pull the lower cover plate first?  I'm a bit unsure now of where I'm going with this. could it be that the gearbox output bearing is bad but not detectable under load?  

Or just reassemble and take to the specialist garage?

IMG_20170822_113713.JPG

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The thread lock is necessary - not only to stop the bolts undoing but to seal the threads and prevent small leaks.

I'd remove the lower cover and continue to investigate, but I have built boxes before and have an idea of what to look for.  It may do more harm than good for a novice to delve too deep, but removing that panel is no big deal, just be careful not to pry things inside with too much force if you poke around to see what is fouling the moving parts.

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Removing the cover is very simple, a look and a pry/wiggle would rule out all but the centre diff failing, I would do it.

The loctite is required, but if the boxes are coming out then just ask chappy to loctite them for you, ask even more nicely and he will seal up the bottom cover for you as well.

I think the truck is just being picked up on a trailer, yes? If so I wouldn't bother putting oil in the boxes, it's not cheap, and will be fine to be pushed/winched onto a trailer, or dare I say it, driven 20 yards, especially if in low box.

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I was trying to avoid having to have this guy fix the problem as it involves paying a tow truck to take it 160 kms. And then paying this guy up to 1000 euros . He just says i need to bring it in. 

I think the oils should cost around 20 euros all in and i can re-use them if new, no?


No wonder this person next door (about 500 meters away) wanted rid of this thing...

Ok feed the cows and cats and nother cup of tea and take off bottom cover   maybe it will reveal Something..  Nothing to lose now.

Im getting more comfortable. 

Any old loctite?

Need to go to town to get oils and loctite. Etc. Life in spain is pretty ****ty if you're not here on holiday.  everywhere closes between 2 and 5.30pm country is run by nasty thieving pricks.  The women given support to run rough shod over everyone around 4000 suicides a year of which 3200 are men .  I dare say the 800 women were pushed rather than jumped.

 

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Sorry, think I had misunderstood a little :)

I was under the impression you were hoping to rule out the transfer box to allow you to go ahead with the garage repairs. Doing the bottom cover is certainly worthwhile, as you say, nothing to lose.

If you are getting more comfortable, you could even remove the centre diff to check that out ;) 

With all that checked, then it really can only be the gearbox, so nothing really lost.

Any loctite will do, in fact any threadlock. :) 

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On your video the knocking sounded like it was wheel speed related to me ? or have I not heard it right ? If it is have you jacked each wheel to check bearings / free spinning ?

At 2000rpm in 4th the props/ TB output will be doing 1400 rpm and the wheels/brgs./ driveshafts  will be doing 400rpm .

The pic's you have put up all look pretty normal , although the drain plugs are a little dirty with iron filings but no big bits of steel ?

Is the hand brake drum binding on the shoes ? or soaked in oil inside as the oil will drag on the drum if the adjustment is tight  and make a hell of a racket  , although more usually in the last few metres as the vehicle comes to a stop .

cheers

Steve b

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Ok. Guitar string was to fat.  Luckily in the old fashioned type that doesn't shave very often but when i do is with an old fashioned razor so i had the blades available.  What a bloody cack job that was. 

Ok so plate is off.  What is immediately obvious is that the intermediate gear has what seems like up / down movement.  More towards the front end than the back.  seems like a lot of movement but i could be wrong.

The bottom shaft seems pretty solid.  Some uptake down there in the high gear.

 

Need to leave it alone for a while now. 

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Sorry Steve,  no,  but the problem goes away when the clutch is depressed so it can't be wheel bearings.

Its transmission related im sure and worse in high than low.  Or much more noticeable.

If the intermediate gear is not supposed to be having up down movement along the length of its own shaft then i think we have something.

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Hello. Should the intermediate gear group be able to move along the shaft   front of vehicle to back of vehicle?

If not then that is the problem. 

There's like 25 mm of movement.  I was thinking it should move to allow selection of high and low gear.  Looking at the book it should set tight between the bearings on the shaft with the collapsing spacer setting the bearing pre load. 

Something appears not right so I'm going to sit back and wait for some advice.

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