pantherslover Posted August 23, 2017 Share Posted August 23, 2017 (edited) I can. What initially concerned me was the slight up down movement of the intermediate gears. But also there is half inch to an inch of movement front to back along the shaft of the entire intermediate gears assembly. Surely it isn't supposed to move along the shaft front to back?? I'm pretty convinced is not supposed to do that?! Edited August 23, 2017 by pantherslover upload image Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted August 23, 2017 Share Posted August 23, 2017 Is it the gear cluster or the shaft itself moving? I've never worked on an LT230, but from the look of the diagram, if the shaft can move out,t he preload will be lost and the gears will move fore and aft too. That could cause the teeth to grind on other items in the box. I do know that wear of the hole in the casing can prevent the o-rings on the thick end of the shaft from sealing. I hope the shaft movement hasn't already caused significant wear of the hole. If it has, though, it is possible (even desirable long term) to have the hole bored and sleeved with a steel insert. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pantherslover Posted August 23, 2017 Share Posted August 23, 2017 Im fairly sure it's the gear cluster not the shaft. Im going to have a proper look now i know what to look for. I hadnt by this stage realised that the Hi /lo selection was done on the diff shaft. Now i know this i can have a better look at why this gear is moving. Ill report back soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted August 23, 2017 Share Posted August 23, 2017 The gear cluster should not move fore or aft at all. If the shaft is in correct position but the shaft is moving, then the bearings must have collapsed. You can see the preload is set by the step in the shaft near its right hand end in your diagram, the depth at which the shaft is held holding that preload. I don't know whetehr the shaft screws in or is held by circlips outside of its thick end with shims to set the correct preload. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pantherslover Posted August 23, 2017 Share Posted August 23, 2017 Gear is moving? Not shaft twice right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pantherslover Posted August 23, 2017 Share Posted August 23, 2017 Ok so the collapsible spacer has deformed further allowing the bearings to enter further into the gear cluster allowing for this unfortunate movement, almost certainly the cause of this racket.? Next question is.. Can i at least get this intermediate gear assembly out upside down. get the pin(shaft) out and allow the gear to come out? And have a degree of success of putting it back with a decent set of bearings and new spacer? I haven't put the input gear back together, it's just sitting in its place Or is it tow truck time?. Cheers guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pantherslover Posted August 24, 2017 Share Posted August 24, 2017 Ok i think i can answer my own question. Box has to come off to take out intermediate gears shaft. The gearbox covers the opening where the pin is withdrawn. I guess I'm going to need new circlips, bearings and collapsible spacer and o ring. And figure out how to drop the box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pantherslover Posted August 24, 2017 Share Posted August 24, 2017 Looked on dave ashcroft It doesnt list a kit for circlips, bearings and collapsible spacer. Does someone supply this? . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweetyduck Posted August 25, 2017 Share Posted August 25, 2017 Whats the serial number of the box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted August 25, 2017 Share Posted August 25, 2017 Last time I looked a rebuild kit was around £90, given you will have to remove the transfer case to do what you need, and sounds like the seals are possible worn as well, then may be worth just getting a full kit? Ashcroft do a sleeved casing as well, which you may need of the hole is ovalled. I would pull the transfer box, and dismantle as far as possible to see what you need rather than trying to do the minimum and then paying a fortune in courier costs. Your other option is to get a second hand box and drop it in, may be cheaper? Tried a breaker? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweetyduck Posted August 25, 2017 Share Posted August 25, 2017 Depending on Box serial Spacer Collapsing Intermediate Shaft FRC7437 Circlip FRC7454 Bearings x 2 STC3185 Shaft FRC8291 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweetyduck Posted August 25, 2017 Share Posted August 25, 2017 Ypu will need a couple of O rings of course. Again depending on Serial. FRC8292 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pantherslover Posted September 4, 2017 Share Posted September 4, 2017 I am up to disconnecting the Hi lo difflock lever. Then reading on about guidestuds. I don't think I'll ever get this thing back on properly. May as well give up and take it to the garage. The whole concept is killing me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pantherslover Posted September 4, 2017 Share Posted September 4, 2017 That is when i read the shop manual. I don't think I'm competent enough to do this alone, nor do i have the interest. Im not even that interested in having the vehicle anyway. Why am i doing this to myself? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quagmire Posted September 4, 2017 Share Posted September 4, 2017 You seem to be competent enough so far from what I have seen on this thread! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pantherslover Posted September 6, 2017 Share Posted September 6, 2017 That's very nice of you. I think i might get it off and repair the tbox but I'm very nervous about being able to get it back on. Mostly due to the fact of all this sealant and thread lock etc. If you've never done this before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pantherslover Posted September 6, 2017 Share Posted September 6, 2017 Now i have noticed that the nut on the end of the intermediate gear shaft is loose and i haven't touched it. The opposite end doesn't show and signs of ovalling. Im going to proceed. As long as i don't put pressure on the gearbox output shaft, I should be ok, no? Im still thinking of having someone else put this back together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweetyduck Posted September 6, 2017 Share Posted September 6, 2017 With the main square plate off the box you can remove the nut and shaft from the transfer box and remove the entire intermediate gear assembly and put it back in with nothing more than and new crush spacer and a new nut. The shaft cannot be removed backwards but must be removed forwards and this cannot be done (i think) with the gearbox and transfer attached so unless the box is out you cannot do what i've said. But once its out its VERY easy. Replacing it with a new crush spacer in place and the gears back in place is a simple as tightening up the nut until there is no movement in the gears front to back. You can replace the o rings also which sit in the case and on the shaft at teh front end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pantherslover Posted September 6, 2017 Share Posted September 6, 2017 (edited) Im going to push on ahead. I've been able to disconnect the shifter linkages. The only things remaining are the mounting brackets and mounts. And a couple of gearbox extension bolts. Does the exhaust really have to come off? It looks like it can be swung around the pipe/silencer. Btw the designer of this vehicle is some kind of sadist. Not fun to work on. Covered in thick oily dust. Edited September 6, 2017 by pantherslover add fotos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pantherslover Posted September 13, 2017 Share Posted September 13, 2017 The transfer box seems stuck on. Am i doing something wrong? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted September 13, 2017 Share Posted September 13, 2017 Undone all the bolts ? Have you given it a good shake to break the bond between it and the gearbox ? Have you removed the input gear ? Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pantherslover Posted September 13, 2017 Share Posted September 13, 2017 Hello Mo, the input gear is off. I've taken like 8 bolts out of it. There are 2 in the gap between the front output shaft. Are there any more facing that way, i.e any above the extension box. I've put a prybar between the two but I'm not going to apply much pressure until I'm confident there are no more bolts. I've just killed a small cat that kept running under my van. I feel really bad. On top this land rover is one of the worst decisions I've ever made. Thanks Mo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pantherslover Posted September 13, 2017 Share Posted September 13, 2017 Does the gearbox tunnel have to come off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweetyduck Posted September 14, 2017 Share Posted September 14, 2017 You missed the front bolt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweetyduck Posted September 14, 2017 Share Posted September 14, 2017 I think there are four bolts/studs. The are three you can see from the back of the box and one you undo from the front of the box. From memory. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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