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muddychris300tdi

Grinding noise coming from transfer box.

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Ive gotten at least 2 from the front. Between the extension box and front output shaft.

And the rest from the back.  Is there one on the front side at the top? I can't see anything.

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I had another look today,  i can't see any more bolts.

How much force is required to seperate it.

?

I'm not wanting to damage it.


Thanks bowie.  That's a good foto. Looks like there are 3 up the middle. From the front.ill check again

Edited by pantherslover
missing info

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From what I remembered needed quite a few whacks to break the initial seal when I pulled mine apart.

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IIRC, one of the "three up the middle" is a dowel. On mine (which I pulled last week), I initially thought it was jammed until I realised I'd forgotten the 17mm nut on the stud at the top which the earth wire for the reversing switch was attached.

if you haven't already, remove the right hand gearbox mount altogether - unbolt it from the chassis and the mounting rubber. That gives a bit more freedom to wiggle the box free.

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Hi,

once you have removed it, get it on a bench, remove the sump and give me a call and I will talk you through removing the gear, changing the intermediate bearings and dropping the gear back in, or you can stick it on a pallet and send it to me , if it just needs these 2 bearings, with new spacer and nut only about £75 parts and labour and about £60 return carriage, Dave 01582 496040

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Thanks all! Ill get the mount off and see what happens.


Im in spain ashtrans. But I'll most certainly need crush spacer and the two intermediate bearings at a minimum.

I'll report back when i get it off and get the gear cluster out.

 

Thank you!

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Ok, it's off. What i can't understand is that there are no parts missing from the intermediate shaft but how can the be a gap between the inner races and the casing? Tightening up the stake nut can only have the effect of squeezing the casing together but there is about 10-12mm of gap between the bearings gear assembly and the wall of the casing,  is the inner casing worn away by the bearing steel? What can take up that gap?  This is a real waste of my fading youth,  im 46 by the way.  Why didn't i buy a W463?

DSC_0008.JPG

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received_476237996094875.jpeg

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10mm is a lot. the case does not look worn and to be honest it would be impossible to wear that much away.

Theres only 10 parts the the inter shaft assembly including all the O rings and nuts etc. So Gear, Crush Spacer, 2 x Bearings, 2 x O rings, Shaft, Plate, Bolt, Lock Nut.

How theres a 10mm gap is a mystery. However you are correct about the case being squeezed to take up the float but NOT 10mm! Possibly 1mm max!

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It should be a fairly snug fit and it isn't so I'm at a loss.

I'll have another look at it tomorrow.

This crush spacer isn't crushed at all.

Some kind of b.s..is what it is. Any ideas?

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Are you able to lay out the items that were there in place, in a line so we can see exactly what's been fitted (or not)?

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Ok the gap between the casing is 10.75mm.

Im thinking the aluminum casing has been worn away by the free to move inner race,  which is supposed to be pinched tight.

Some fotos fotos attached.

Ayeee.....

 

 

 

received_476725919379416.jpeg

received_476725999379408.jpeg

received_476727522712589.jpeg

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I do not think its possible for the case to wear that much.

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On 16/09/2017 at 7:37 PM, ashtrans said:

Hi,

once you have removed it, get it on a bench, remove the sump and give me a call and I will talk you through removing the gear, changing the intermediate bearings and dropping the gear back in, or you can stick it on a pallet and send it to me , if it just needs these 2 bearings, with new spacer and nut only about £75 parts and labour and about £60 return carriage, Dave 01582 496040

I'd call Ashcroft now. It's a great offer of help. Don't despair. It'll become clear, whatever's going on. 

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It is  a great offer of help i agree.

We are almost there.

I think the case has worn away. My fix will be to shim the gap with a wide aluminum washer  and bolt it all back together.

If everyone is in agreement that that is my best option in light of the circumstances.

 

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I think that the shaft might have worn away, not the casing.

Have a look at these two pics. One is a new shaft I've snipped off a website and the other is yours.

59c2c7fb255aa_ScreenShot2017-09-20at20_54_50.png.fa7feeec2adc35a0e8dd672d231a2353.png

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Hi peaklander,

It looks like because the edge is discoloured from bathing in dirty oil, the shaft is steel and the case is aly,  the pin doesnt wear at that point.  I need confirmation of the internal gap between the case end flats.

 

received_477381335980541.jpeg

Edited by pantherslover
missing info

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Ok yes that makes sense. It was worth a mention IMHO ☺️

If I were you and I'd had that offer from Dave Ashcroft I would simply pickup the phone. You can describe exactly what you've got, what you can see and I'm sure he will know what's happened and have a solution. 

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Ok, just spoke to dave at ashcroft. Very helpful. He confirmed that the case gap was correct.

I really want to kick myself. Looks like i could have put this right without takung the tbox off.

The problem with the gap caused by the plate and nut with the flat on to keep the shaft from spinning.  the stake nut was loose, the shaft moved back off the flat and wouldnt come further forward because the flats werent aligned. Good job I believe in feel and precision over brute force.

If i had taken the stake nut off in situe and turned the shaft to align the flats and tighten up, i would have been good to go.  f***!

So,  jet wash the case,  clean the bearings and shaft,  send fotos of gears to dave at ashcroft. And poss new bearings and o rings and good to go.

I think the bearings look ok   the shaft is slightly scored where it passes through the case but in the league of microns not mm.

Thanks to all !  Lesson learned,  don't get involved in the first place.

Edited by pantherslover
missing info

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