pantherslover Posted August 20, 2017 Share Posted August 20, 2017 3 hours ago, pantherslover said: The output shaft feels solid. The input gear bearings feel a bit loose, is there a way to check them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted August 20, 2017 Share Posted August 20, 2017 Loose on the gear, the races loose in the casing, or do you mean that there seems to be too much slack when assembled? The bearing preload is set by shims. A Bowie said, the parts all look good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pantherslover Posted August 20, 2017 Share Posted August 20, 2017 I mean the cages when the shaft is out of the housing. I do believe that when it was just after taking the cover plate off some play in the input shaft bearing, but perhaps that's because it's tension is now released as the outer rave is retained by the cover plate bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted August 21, 2017 Share Posted August 21, 2017 The bearing races should be an interference fit on the gear and in the casing, but the cages and rollers should be slack on the inner race with the gear out. Is that what you mean? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pantherslover Posted August 21, 2017 Share Posted August 21, 2017 Well the cages just felt slack. I think there was too.much movement when assembled. Could that cause these symptoms? Does the position of the output spline and input gear matter? I mean as long as is on the spline. I want to start her up and run the box in its own, is that allowed without oil? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pantherslover Posted August 21, 2017 Share Posted August 21, 2017 Can't really hear anything running the gearbox on its own. So i don't think it's output shaft. i guess i need to put that gear back in. Should the oils be recycled seperately or together?. Which oils should i be putting in? Any recommendations would be helpful. Thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted August 22, 2017 Share Posted August 22, 2017 EP90 in the LT230, ATF in the LT77. I think the filings you found are the symptoms of whatever is causing the noise, not the ailment itself. Running the gear box wet but unfilled should do no harm as it has no load, but will be noisier and could mask the worrisome noises. I don't think running it without a load on it is likely to reveal the fault, either, but there is no harm in trying for a short period. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pantherslover Posted August 22, 2017 Share Posted August 22, 2017 Thanks Snagger. I've an R380 atf there too? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted August 22, 2017 Share Posted August 22, 2017 ATF was the original spec, later changed to MTF94. Either will be fine, with advocates for both types. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pantherslover Posted August 22, 2017 Share Posted August 22, 2017 Ok, yes I've just looked it up in the manual. So any equivalent. Am i going the right way by putting the gear back in? Or should i pull the lower cover plate first? I'm a bit unsure now of where I'm going with this. could it be that the gearbox output bearing is bad but not detectable under load? Or just reassemble and take to the specialist garage? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pantherslover Posted August 22, 2017 Share Posted August 22, 2017 Is the loctite necessary? ****, how did i get myself into this situation? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted August 22, 2017 Share Posted August 22, 2017 The thread lock is necessary - not only to stop the bolts undoing but to seal the threads and prevent small leaks. I'd remove the lower cover and continue to investigate, but I have built boxes before and have an idea of what to look for. It may do more harm than good for a novice to delve too deep, but removing that panel is no big deal, just be careful not to pry things inside with too much force if you poke around to see what is fouling the moving parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted August 22, 2017 Share Posted August 22, 2017 Removing the cover is very simple, a look and a pry/wiggle would rule out all but the centre diff failing, I would do it. The loctite is required, but if the boxes are coming out then just ask chappy to loctite them for you, ask even more nicely and he will seal up the bottom cover for you as well. I think the truck is just being picked up on a trailer, yes? If so I wouldn't bother putting oil in the boxes, it's not cheap, and will be fine to be pushed/winched onto a trailer, or dare I say it, driven 20 yards, especially if in low box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pantherslover Posted August 22, 2017 Share Posted August 22, 2017 I was trying to avoid having to have this guy fix the problem as it involves paying a tow truck to take it 160 kms. And then paying this guy up to 1000 euros . He just says i need to bring it in. I think the oils should cost around 20 euros all in and i can re-use them if new, no? No wonder this person next door (about 500 meters away) wanted rid of this thing... Ok feed the cows and cats and nother cup of tea and take off bottom cover maybe it will reveal Something.. Nothing to lose now. Im getting more comfortable. Any old loctite? Need to go to town to get oils and loctite. Etc. Life in spain is pretty ****ty if you're not here on holiday. everywhere closes between 2 and 5.30pm country is run by nasty thieving pricks. The women given support to run rough shod over everyone around 4000 suicides a year of which 3200 are men . I dare say the 800 women were pushed rather than jumped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted August 22, 2017 Share Posted August 22, 2017 Sorry, think I had misunderstood a little I was under the impression you were hoping to rule out the transfer box to allow you to go ahead with the garage repairs. Doing the bottom cover is certainly worthwhile, as you say, nothing to lose. If you are getting more comfortable, you could even remove the centre diff to check that out With all that checked, then it really can only be the gearbox, so nothing really lost. Any loctite will do, in fact any threadlock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pantherslover Posted August 22, 2017 Share Posted August 22, 2017 (edited) Ok bolts out no problem. Cover plate is glued on tight. Any ideas, i don't want to damage seal faces with screwdrivers. Nothing on any sites or in the book about this. Edited August 22, 2017 by pantherslover missing info Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted August 22, 2017 Share Posted August 22, 2017 Stanley blade, carefully... and then lever off with aforementioned big screwdriver.... Obviously don't muller the surfaces, but a little damage can easily be taken up with the instant gasket... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pantherslover Posted August 22, 2017 Share Posted August 22, 2017 Ok I think I've a better idea. Very light gauge guitar string. I'll be careful. Proper stuck on! Red stuff. Would that be factory red stuff? I'll let you know what i discover. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted August 22, 2017 Share Posted August 22, 2017 Good plan, wear gloves Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted August 22, 2017 Share Posted August 22, 2017 ... and a top hat. Mo 😊 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted August 22, 2017 Share Posted August 22, 2017 On your video the knocking sounded like it was wheel speed related to me ? or have I not heard it right ? If it is have you jacked each wheel to check bearings / free spinning ? At 2000rpm in 4th the props/ TB output will be doing 1400 rpm and the wheels/brgs./ driveshafts will be doing 400rpm . The pic's you have put up all look pretty normal , although the drain plugs are a little dirty with iron filings but no big bits of steel ? Is the hand brake drum binding on the shoes ? or soaked in oil inside as the oil will drag on the drum if the adjustment is tight and make a hell of a racket , although more usually in the last few metres as the vehicle comes to a stop . cheers Steve b Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pantherslover Posted August 22, 2017 Share Posted August 22, 2017 Ok. Guitar string was to fat. Luckily in the old fashioned type that doesn't shave very often but when i do is with an old fashioned razor so i had the blades available. What a bloody cack job that was. Ok so plate is off. What is immediately obvious is that the intermediate gear has what seems like up / down movement. More towards the front end than the back. seems like a lot of movement but i could be wrong. The bottom shaft seems pretty solid. Some uptake down there in the high gear. Need to leave it alone for a while now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pantherslover Posted August 22, 2017 Share Posted August 22, 2017 Sorry Steve, no, but the problem goes away when the clutch is depressed so it can't be wheel bearings. Its transmission related im sure and worse in high than low. Or much more noticeable. If the intermediate gear is not supposed to be having up down movement along the length of its own shaft then i think we have something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pantherslover Posted August 23, 2017 Share Posted August 23, 2017 Hello. Should the intermediate gear group be able to move along the shaft front of vehicle to back of vehicle? If not then that is the problem. There's like 25 mm of movement. I was thinking it should move to allow selection of high and low gear. Looking at the book it should set tight between the bearings on the shaft with the collapsing spacer setting the bearing pre load. Something appears not right so I'm going to sit back and wait for some advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted August 23, 2017 Share Posted August 23, 2017 Are you able to get some pictures? I know lighting can be tricky... Would help loads Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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