Scotts90 Posted September 21, 2017 Share Posted September 21, 2017 Pretty sure I've got an old crush spacer in my "boxoflt230bits" and if memory serves it was deformed way more than the one in your pics. Will measure tonight if I can find it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted September 21, 2017 Share Posted September 21, 2017 I wouldn't kick yourself at all! You've been methodical, taken advice, acted upon it, and have a resolution! If the box was still in the truck, you wouldn't have been able to see the rest of it was OK, and may not have spotted the problem you know have found.... And... the fix is about as cheap as any fix can get get -some o-rings and some RTV... bargain, hope that absolutely solves the issue for you and you can make a few quid on it I would slap it back together with the existing bearings, if they aren't horribly worn they will work for you just fine. As you say, o-rings are a no brainer and require no tools etc to fit, so go for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pantherslover Posted September 21, 2017 Share Posted September 21, 2017 Thanks scotts, bowie! Scotts the spacer in mine is a fixed width one. I think i can reuse it. Any old o rings or should i be sourcing something special? I think i should jet was the extierior but maybe not a good idea to introduce water into the case. Bearings / rust etc. Some clean rags, degreaser patience and clean the bearings methodically. Reassemble nicely and remount it and move on in life. You guys, all of you, amazingly supportive. Thank you! Now I'm able to offer advice based on experience too. Experience has made all the difference to this particular novice 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotts90 Posted September 21, 2017 Share Posted September 21, 2017 How do you set the preload on the intermediate gear bearings if you don't have a crush/collapsible spacer? Having looked at my LT230 manual it doesn't mention any box ranges with a fixed spacer. I'm sure Ashtrans will be the guy who knows... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pantherslover Posted September 21, 2017 Share Posted September 21, 2017 (edited) Your supposed to used different sized ones. There are 40 between 58.325mm up to 59.300mm in increments of 0.025mm. As i haven't got the facilities to set the gear bearing group up properly with a dial indicator etc. Im going to use the existing fixed width one, tighten up to a reasonable force and hopefully not pinch too tight to impede the rotation. Anything will be better than how it was. Edited September 21, 2017 by pantherslover missing info 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pantherslover Posted September 22, 2017 Share Posted September 22, 2017 In fact the official manual says collapsible spacers must not be used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotts90 Posted September 22, 2017 Share Posted September 22, 2017 On 22/11/2015 at 10:25 PM, tweetyduck said: the crush spacer is single size and the previous selectable size spacers are now obsolete really. i'd not use selective spacers in any box to be fair but i'm no expert. The crush spacer is just that it crushes and all you need do is fit it and tighten up the inter bolt until there is zero endfloat (movement) in the inter gears. just keep tightening until it stops floating. Simples. Which workshop manual are you using? As mentioned on the first page (quoted above) the spacers are now obsolete. I’ve rebuilt 4 LT230s with the Ashcroft kits and they’ve all just had crush spacers. Even treated myself to a dial torque wrench for the specific task! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pantherslover Posted September 22, 2017 Share Posted September 22, 2017 It's the official one with the marble? On the cover. If i was in the uk in the factory which i once used i could get more excited, but im on a concrete slab at 900+ meters high, alone and with few resources. I would honestly have taken it to someone if there was anyone available. But like everything in this country, anyone good or proper is chock full and anyone not proper is best avoided. Theres this guy called Andy landy in the Valley but he steals parts of the cars cars, tyres batteries etc and then tells you that they need replacing. I keep away from people like that as i don't want an assault charge. I'll go with the fixed spacer. All of these problems were caused by using a questionable mechanic who don't give a f***. If the nut had been staked or staked properly this would probably never have happened. Im alone here so the interaction and support here has been fabulous. Wash the bearings with gasoline? They rolled into the concrete and picked up some little bits. Have any of you used Advanced Factors? They list the the o rings in the region of pence rather than pounds. And they ship overseas. Peace, all for now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Poore Posted September 22, 2017 Share Posted September 22, 2017 8 minutes ago, pantherslover said: Have any of you used Advanced Factors? I use them quite regularly - particularly for bits for the L322. They are a site sponsor of Defender2.net so if you're a member over there you can usually get a bit of a discount. Steve the owner also goes by several guises including boringoldgit on disco3.com I think. Depending on what the shipping is going to be it might be worth seeing whether there is anything else they can tack onto the order. For example if you're lacking some crucial tools then it might be worth seeing whether, if they don't supply them, if they could source them and add them to the parcel. 13 minutes ago, pantherslover said: Wash the bearings with gasoline? Personally don't see a problem with that as long as you leave it a moment so the petrol can evaporate off properly. Don't know what effect the petrol will have on the EP90 inside the case but for the sake of a few minutes it's not worth the effort. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotts90 Posted September 22, 2017 Share Posted September 22, 2017 I know you're going to re use the fixed spacer, the collapsible one is readily available on eBay if you have supplier issues. After washing out your bearings with petrol and letting them dry off I'd dunk them in a tub with your chosen oil to soak. I do this with new bearings prior to fitting too. This is the version I use Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pantherslover Posted October 2, 2017 Share Posted October 2, 2017 One more question. Are the o rings for the intermediate shaft a special type? Ive taken them off, they seem to not be the normal round profile o-rings, but ones with a flat on the inside and outside surfaces. Thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted October 2, 2017 Share Posted October 2, 2017 That'll be because they are old and worn out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pantherslover Posted October 2, 2017 Share Posted October 2, 2017 So any old automotive o rings then round shaped cross section, or should they be ordered specially? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troll Hunter Posted October 3, 2017 Share Posted October 3, 2017 Any normal O-ring will have a round cross section. If a used O-ring has a flat top and bottom that is because it has been compressed in service. It MUST be replaced to ovoid further O-ring failure. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pantherslover Posted October 8, 2017 Share Posted October 8, 2017 Thanks Mike. Got them now, yes they are round, must have been squashed flat the old ones. Got them locally for free, a Spanish friend has a friend in almeria that has a garage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pantherslover Posted October 11, 2017 Share Posted October 11, 2017 Ok, jetwashed the exterior, new o-rings. Now i note that on one of the bearings, some of the rollers are worn / pitted,. is this justification for changing them? Bearing in mind that then I'll have to get the inner races out of the gear cluster. Also does the stake nut not look like it won't stake? Does it need changing? Getting closer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted October 11, 2017 Share Posted October 11, 2017 Bearings definitely need changning, that will howl like a banshee, and fail in short order. Stake nut may still stake, but they are really cheap... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pantherslover Posted October 11, 2017 Share Posted October 11, 2017 Ok so i will need circlip pliers to change the outer races or can i get them out without removing the safety rings(circlips)? Also take the chance that the fixed spacer will work with the new bearings? New bearings new stake nut collapsible spacer? Bearing in mind that I've got no bit that fits the stake nut. A large adjustable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pantherslover Posted October 30, 2017 Share Posted October 30, 2017 Ok people, bearings should finally be arriving today. Faithfully despatched by Advanced factors in the 18th oct. In the republic of catalunya they would have arrived already. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pantherslover Posted November 2, 2017 Share Posted November 2, 2017 Quote Ok i can't tap the old outer races out of the gear cluster. Im thinking i should use the old o outer races and the n new bearings. If you guys can approve that method of tell me how I'm supposed to get the old races out, without being a brute. Awaiting your essential advices . Ashley. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pantherslover Posted November 2, 2017 Share Posted November 2, 2017 Heat up the gear in the sun? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotts90 Posted November 2, 2017 Share Posted November 2, 2017 Looking at the worn bearings I wouldn't use the existing races. With the circlip removed you should be able to tap the race out from behind, a swift crack with a decent sized hammer usually gets them moving. Just be careful not to damage the face of the gear. you could try sitting it in the sun but the heat wouldn't be localised enough...ideally you want to heat the gear without transferring too much to the race. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweetyduck Posted November 2, 2017 Share Posted November 2, 2017 Don't cut corners. change the races and bearings. Change as much as you can afford to change. Don't skip something just because it looks a little difficult. You only want to do this once ! Find a brass punch or piece of brass bar and use a hammer. They all come off eventaully. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pantherslover Posted November 2, 2017 Share Posted November 2, 2017 Im not trying to cut corners, but I'm mindful of getting into problems here at 1000m 14 km from town. Here is nothing. I've tried with a brass rod. I have no circlip pliers. There is no way to hit it with anything from square as there is an obstruction at each end. Im very nervous about doing damage to the circlips as i don't have any more or pliers to remove them They need to be really good long nose ones to get them out from behind the race. What a load of trouble. Oh by the way my neighbour died about 3 weeks ago. That's what drinking dodgy strong local wine and not eating does for you. I can take the gear out again but i don't see why the old races shouldn't suffice. Why didn't i buy a Mercedes? Well you all know the answer to that. Everyone here tells me td5`s are ****. The only person not to was my dead neighbour. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted November 2, 2017 Share Posted November 2, 2017 I'm a touch confused which parts you are trying to remove, got a pic? (sorry) Just so e all know what is being talked about Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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