Mutley Posted November 11, 2015 Share Posted November 11, 2015 Ok so the drivers side door latch gave way today Grrrrrrrr!!! Broke were one of the locking rods attach (Pants) the part number is (was) MWC1476....... then FQJ103160.....Now FQJ500240 The questions is do I get genuine (stupid money) or are the Allmakes, Bearmatch ones just as good or do we know who makes the OE one? Oh yeah and how much of a mare is it to fit? doors 2/3's stripped so hey ho After market part on the bay 20-25 quid Genuine no change from 70 notes but need it asap so answers on here pronto please and NOT on a postcard thank you Regards all Mutley Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 11, 2015 Share Posted November 11, 2015 just rods & their retain clips to disconnect & 3 bolts from latch mechanism to door to remove. any of the makes you've mentioned will do the job, no idea who makes the original items for LR. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oneandtwo Posted November 11, 2015 Share Posted November 11, 2015 I put a cheap new one on my partners 90 as the original was a bit sloppy. She now cannot lock the door because the new one more often than not gets stuck in the locked position and takes a lot of wiggling and pulling to get the lock button up again. I should've known better, it looked cheap with plastic rod retaining clips rather than metal ones as original. My excuse is that it came with a vehicle in a box of spares and I didn't pay for it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oneandtwo Posted November 11, 2015 Share Posted November 11, 2015 Just looked online and the bearmach ones look considerably better than the one I fitted above. Infact I might buy one myself and replace it so she can lock the door again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutley Posted November 12, 2015 Author Share Posted November 12, 2015 Thanks guys think I too will go aftermarket based on what you say oneandtwo that and I cant afford the 70 notes for genuine right now and need to be able to lock the motor ( God knows why? because if it ever got nicked, I would wet myself laughing knowing that the scum has stolen a life time of trouble and problems, and that's just to get the F***** door mechanism to work!!!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutley Posted November 12, 2015 Author Share Posted November 12, 2015 Just noticed on Paddock's web site it is looking as though Bearmach is the OEM for this part??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutley Posted November 17, 2015 Author Share Posted November 17, 2015 well the Bearmach latch arrived Monday and 1st. impression was that it looks pretty much the same as the original?.......... So to night fitted said part and have to say all works as it should, opening and locking sounds and feels positive, so fingers crossed this will last a few years!?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 17, 2015 Share Posted November 17, 2015 hope you stuffed some grease inside it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutley Posted November 17, 2015 Author Share Posted November 17, 2015 I did but not convinced grease is the right way to go??? Having examined the part and looked closely at it in place it would appear that the smallest of particles or build up of such could foul the mechanism and cause it to fail? Though grease is a lube of sorts it does tend to hold grit and other carp that then becomes a not so nice gunk clogging up the moving parts, plus it becomes abrasive and aids ware!.......... Me is thinking that a regular dose of say EP90 gear oil (as I have plenty) would be more beneficial in keeping it lubed and protected, any thoughts Western or any body? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted November 17, 2015 Share Posted November 17, 2015 Graphite lube is sometimes used with lock mechanisms for that very reason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted November 18, 2015 Share Posted November 18, 2015 I liberally spray mine with wd40 once a year, pushing the straw in as far as it will go. Seems to do the trick. Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jocklandjohn Posted November 18, 2015 Share Posted November 18, 2015 I've worked on locks for years, and grease is not recommended (as Mutley correctly notes). It creates a grinding paste and wrecks them. Dry lubricant is ideal - graphite perfect. Get an old soft pencil and liberally 'scribble' all over the exposed bits if you can. If not, expose the pencil lead, scrape some of it off with a sharp blade onto some white paper and then fold it carefully so you can pour/puff it into the lock, using the key to help. You can buy graphite in dust form in a puffer bottle and skoosh it in using that. I've seen graphite lubed locks 50 years old and virtually unworn, whilst oil lubed ones were well eroded. (As an aside its for that reason that fingerprints on lenses of camera and binos should be gently cleaned off with soft cloth and some warm soapy water. The grease in fingerprints holds fine abrasive particles and can over time with repeated careless rubbings damage the lens surface.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.