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Wheel stud spinning - cannot remove wheel


Reiny
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As title implies, one of my wheel studs is spinning together with the nut. i cannot remove the wheel in question. i managed to undo it by a few threads and that's it. The whole shebang started to spin. Any pointers? To make matters more complex it's a freestyle alloy wheel hence the nut is sunk deep into recess in the wheel rim (30mm spacers are fitted to the hub, if that makes any difference). I have tried drilling the nut but gave up shortly after. The only logical thing i can think of is chopping the wheel rim off with an angle grinder but i would like to avoid doing that if possible

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That's very awkward. So to confirm, this is a stud whose end is in a spacer? Ie they are the kind of spacers with their own studs pointing out in between the original ones - you bolt the spacer to the hub, and the wheel to the spacer? What are the spacers made of?

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Jam the wheel nut, and drill the stud out, yes it will take a while.... Don't think any fix will be that quick.

You could keep trying to drill the nut, then split it with a chisel, even a millimetre would be enough of an expansion to get it off.

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All worthy suggestions chaps. Thanks. Spacers are aluminium with protruding wheel studs. I.e. the spacer bolts onto the hub using original land rover nuts. I have tried and impact wrench, applying pressure with a crowbar as qwaker suggested but to no avail. I'll try a bit more and take a 9 inch grinder to the rim if i fail.

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Small update. I tried drilling through the stud yesterday. I had an hour to spare. My drill bits aren't in the best condition and yet I managed to eat through about 12mm of stud (only about 30mm to go). So the plan for this evening is buying a new set of drill bits and attacking it again. Will keep you posted.

With regards to the spacer, I won't bother trying to get a stud fitted to it. I'll just buy a new spacer.

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When you're drilling, run the drill very slowly! Most drilling failures are down to spinning it too fast.

Assumong you are completely drilling out the stud and your drill bit is somewhere between 13 & 16mm, it doesn't want to be turning at more than a couple of hundred RPM - and apply as much pressure as you possibly can.

It is worth learning to sharpen drill bits if you have a spare half hour (there's a post in the tech forum that some kind person wrote about it). Then at least if the drill does go blunt, 30 seconds later it can be sharp again!

I've not bought any new drill bits in about 15 years - since I learned!

Si

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Don't bother with increments, you'll end up having the drill snatched out your hands, which is very painful. If you can get an assistant to spray something in the hole to help lube the drill and cool it that will help.... Water works fine. As it's been said you must lean on the drill as hard as you can to make it work but also keep the RPM around the 150-250 mark with a 12mm drill bit.

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I forget exactly the angle you grind them at but you can gauge it by holding holding 2 nuts side by side (flank to flank) and the open "v" created is roughly what you want. Then grind the trailing edge of each cutter to make way for the next one as the bit spins

Have you previously been using impact tools to do the nuts up?

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At an event once a fella had spacers on and the bolts obviously had come loose.

Going up a hill with a bit of wheel spin when the tyre found grip the spacer just disintegrated.

I promised myself that day I'd never use spacers.

But more to the point. It was a quick and effective way of removing a wheel.... :stirthepot:

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