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Immobiliser issue?


DrRob
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200Tdi KA with single button remote blipper

Connected battery after 1 week stood in garage. Ignition lights come on but it won't crank.

Any ideas? Can I remove it easily? Not fussed having it working but would like to keep the central locking....

Thanks in advance

Rob

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On the main connector for the immobiliser there are 6 wires IIRC, the plug is white.

At one end there's a pair of wires which is the starter circuit, you can jump these across to circumvent the immobiliser and I've bought a plug from Vehicle Wiring products that does just this, it's a get-you-home solution.

BTW I'm assuming you're asking about a RRC and not the Disco, I've never dealt with the spider so I can't help with that.

Now if the immobiliser is on you need the key fob to disable it, it only works on one circuit, the starter and the immobilising isn't turned off with the key if it's put on remotely.

If you get it turned off then remove the microswitches in the door handles and you'll have central locking but no alarm.

You can get a toad immobiliser for about £50,branded as Sterling, on E-Bay and these are suprisingly good with 2 circuit immobilising so it's Thatcham approved.

Or VWP can help you wire the later 2 button unit into your car but these need Testbook if there's a problem with them.

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Thanks for the reply.

Yes, it's a RRC with single button remote.

I'd be happy with just central locking via the key so the bypass sounds like a cheap fix......

Have you got a weblink to the VWM connector?

Where is the immobiliser though ? In the dash? Feel free to PM me if you prefer.

Thanks again

Rob

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On the hard dash the black box is stuffed up under the dash somewhere, I've got one to take out myself sometime but keep putting it off.

On a softie they racked all the ECUs behind the glovebox :i-m_so_happy:

They are hard but not impossible to find.

try this

As long as it's dissarmed you can programme it to your key fobs, if it's armed it's pretty stuffed unless these guys can help.

They also sell the get-you-home plug to bypass the starter cut-out circuit.

BTW, the alarm and central locking are all one unit, the alarm can also switch on the interior lights IIRC.

Good luck

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My immobiliser/alarm started playing up the other day, AMR2106. I'd been trying to ease off a sticky door pin by operating the central locking and introducing some silicone spray when the alarm started sounding and it immobilised the car. To make matters worse I have a toad system fitted as an aftermarket solution as I have no fob. Oddly allowing the alarm to sound and then locking and unlocking resest the AMR unit and all was fine. I've bought a spare as a backup tjat acrually comes with a fob but I might do as suggested above, remove the microswitches from the door handles and bypass the immobiliser circuit.

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My immobiliser/alarm started playing up the other day, AMR2106. I'd been trying to ease off a sticky door pin by operating the central locking and introducing some silicone spray when the alarm started sounding and it immobilised the car. To make matters worse I have a toad system fitted as an aftermarket solution as I have no fob. Oddly allowing the alarm to sound and then locking and unlocking resest the AMR unit and all was fine. I've bought a spare as a backup tjat acrually comes with a fob but I might do as suggested above, remove the microswitches from the door handles and bypass the immobiliser circuit.

The alarm unit will lock and unlock the central locking by operating the sill button, I don't remember exactly but it shouldn't put the immobiliser on without the lock barrel switch.

The T**d alarm ours came with only had the microswitch taken off the drivers door. One day the wife parked up at the shops with the baby in tow, got out and locked the car from the passengers side and was then stranded, not realising the significance of locking the passenger's door. Had to be rescued by a neighbour. You don't need to cut them off though, just unclip them and spin them round then clip them back in for later.

There is a difference in the level of protection between the fob and the key, I think it's the ultrasonic. but both should immobilise the car whereas the sill button just locks all the doors allowing you to drive/keep driving.

What is the sequence to pair the remote with the car? Might need to do that.....

I think it's in RAVE, it might also be in the handbook. I'll have a look if I get chance unless someone beats me to it.

TOP TIP, you need a mate to help as one of the inputs is to open the bonnet and all the inputs have to be done in sequence and quite quickly.

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  • 2 weeks later...

On the main connector for the immobiliser there are 6 wires IIRC, the plug is white.

At one end there's a pair of wires which is the starter circuit, you can jump these across to circumvent the immobiliser and I've bought a plug from Vehicle Wiring products that does just this, it's a get-you-home solution.

Can you remember the wire colours to jump?

Have you got a hyperlink to the plug you bought from VMP?

Thanks!

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Try the guys at Remote-Key.

All I remember is they are black on the plug in, if I can find it I'll check which wires. I have a horrible fealling they change dependant on model year anyway.

I do remember that on the white plug there are 3 pairs, one pair is the starter curcuit, the other is the horn circuit and the third is IIRC power for the alarm/CL

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