Tal Posted December 6, 2016 Share Posted December 6, 2016 ah i see,a nice bit of swapping pumps around, what sort of pressure does it build up in the tank? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted December 6, 2016 Author Share Posted December 6, 2016 I utilize the 230v pressureswitch that was already on the compressortank, only now it just switches 12v instead. And I also blocked off the airbleed valve which is there to make starting up easier for the pump that was on there, however not necessary with this pump. It is preset to stop at 8 bars and start at about 6,5 however these can be adjusted simultaneously or individually. The latter is not possible on all types of switches, but you can generally adjust the max pressure on most. Preferably I would like to run as low pressure as possible to give the pump as little work as possible (quicker from 0 to full, and less noise) But also I need to make sure there's enough pressure for the lockers to engage properly and fast enough. I'll run with the 8 bars for now, and adjust if necessary later on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted December 13, 2016 Author Share Posted December 13, 2016 Have a single picture for you guys on this cold December evening. Finally got around to fitting a proper filterbox on the Petrol engine. Had a problem earlier in the year, where raindrops got drawn through the K&N and into the floatbowl of the Carb, not very pleasant times I've fitted the filerbox so that I can add a snorkel on a later date, should I deem it necessary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted December 20, 2016 Author Share Posted December 20, 2016 Oh yeah, now that's a proper look for a farm runabout, which this basically is in the off-season Oh and I think I might have come up with a name for it at last, "The Lab-Rat" or just "Lab-Rat" How does it sound to you? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted December 26, 2016 Author Share Posted December 26, 2016 (edited) iiiits Turbotime! Finally could no longer resist slapping the Turbo from the old 1,6TD engine on, have been wanting to try my hands at turboing a carburetted petrol for many years now. And what better car to try it on, than my very own Lab-Rat? Firstly I found the best location for the Turbo and made some exhaust tube to connect it all, and a support from the intake to avoid breaking the exhaust manifold from all the extra weight: To my happy surprise the cast iron down pipe was easy enough to weld: Kept everything as much inboard as possible: And got both the water and oil lines for the Turbo hooked up: And finally a little video of the nice Turbo whine: This was obviously the easy part, now comes fitting a wastegate (none on the Turbo anymore, i lobbed it off ) making the pressure side and fitting a dumpvalve. And then somehow making that Britpart Carb run properly with boost going through it! If this fails though, I always have the option of fitting a carb in front of the turbo instead. Would actually negate the need for a dumpvalve as well but might affect throttle response, low RPMs and startup. So we'll see how it all ends up. Edited December 26, 2016 by Soren Frimodt 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tal Posted December 26, 2016 Share Posted December 26, 2016 Thats nice work Soren, did you use Nickel to weld the cast iron? (I'll have a listen to the engine later) Did you have to do much retuning to get the carb to work with the turbo? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted December 26, 2016 Author Share Posted December 26, 2016 (edited) 34 minutes ago, Tal said: Thats nice work Soren, did you use Nickel to weld the cast iron? (I'll have a listen to the engine later) Did you have to do much retuning to get the carb to work with the turbo? Nope I didn't use Nickel or anything else out of the ordinary. Just used my Mig with steelwire and Co2. However I have experimented a lot with welding Cast-iron over the years, and I have found a basic way of checking whether its weldable or not without doing anything exotic. I simply grind back a spot of the material and run a bead. If it splutters like you have no shielding gas its a definite no-go, but in these situations you can usually see in the material it is very porous as soon as you grind it smooth. Then there's the kind that welds fine, but when you inspect it the weld seems to have a small split right in the middle, this won't be any good either, but adding Nickel here might work? I don't know I'm no pro. But when the welding "feels" fine and looks it afterwards I am yet to have any problems. Heck the gearbox is welded that way I have not connected the carb yet as I have to go buy a wastegate tomorrow and fit that first. The engine is running 10,5:1 CR so I cannot just stuff a lot of boost in there. Think I'll run about 5psi. But reading up on it I'm pretty sure I'll do a draw-through setup instead, as it'll not only save me a whole lot of hassle, but also some of my hard-earned, as I won't be needing a Dump-valve, Intercooler, rising-rate fuel pressure regulator and highpressure fuel pump. My main worry here though is the inevitable lack in throttle response coming off idle, but think I'll have a play with it and see if I can live with it before I go spending like crazy Edited December 26, 2016 by Soren Frimodt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted December 26, 2016 Share Posted December 26, 2016 Was going to say, a draw through will save you a load of pain I wouldn't expect it to be much worse for throttle response, and off-boost should be pretty much the same with that compression ratio. MG Metro turbo SU carburettor is designed to work in this scenario, if you go blow through Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted December 26, 2016 Author Share Posted December 26, 2016 2 minutes ago, Bowie69 said: Was going to say, a draw through will save you a load of pain I wouldn't expect it to be much worse for throttle response, and off-boost should be pretty much the same with that compression ratio. MG Metro turbo SU carburettor is designed to work in this scenario, if you go blow through yeah I hope so, but its the distance from where the air/fuel gets mixed to where it is actually needed that concerns me, on Bikes I have experience in lengthening intake runners, and just 10mm's makes quite a significant difference. Bike engines are of course much higher efficiency (in general) so small alterations will have more effect. With blow through there should be no difference to how it performs without the Turbo, going off idle. The accelerator pumps squirt will have longer to travel and it may very well give a short lag period. What might save me a little here though, is the size of the Turbo. Its actually too small for this aplication but I might just benefit from that in a draw through setup Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted December 27, 2016 Author Share Posted December 27, 2016 (edited) Today was quite the productive day! Picked up the external Wastegate and some other stuff like clamps and silicone connecters, and got to work: Powerwrapped the downpipe near the shiftercable for the gearbox, plus fitted some more heatshielding blanket to the cable. Don't wan't this poor thing to melt on me now that it has gotten tangled up in all my tubing spaghetti Giving it some thought I realized a huge drawback to the draw-through setup. what happens when you shut the throttle? It will wan't suck all the oil out from the turbo! and this Turbo being far from new I don't feel like running that risk. So just for fun I connected the Turbo directly to the carb, with the only mod being fitment of a plastic tube to the floatbowl breather, a trick I found on the internet yesterday And to my big surprise she ran quite well! Now before you get all carried away with how easy it was to make that carb work with blow-through I have to let you in on the problems you don't see in this video First off when you go off idle it sputters a bit (not much by any means, so probably tunable) but the floatbowl runs out of fuel just after these short bursts of full acceleration. This was expected though as you really need the fuel pressure to be higher than the boost, and an old Facet style pump as I use, doesn't really deliver any pressure Now the boost is about 0,7bars which is much more than I wan't to run so I'll have to adjust this before I tackle any adjustments of the carb. And I'm amazed in doesn't just shoot off the pressure pipe with no blow off/ dump valve! So if I'm lucky it won't be needed at all once I turn the boost down. So all in all a very good first run and I have great hopes for this setup Edited December 27, 2016 by Soren Frimodt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted December 29, 2016 Author Share Posted December 29, 2016 aand the Turbo saga continues (really need to spend less time in the garage but can't stop myself, its just too much fun!) First off yesterday I made the wastegate adjustable and cut almost half of the spring off to get it to 0,2bar of boost. As suspected this solved a lot of the tune-ing issues with the carb, actually to the point where I would say it was 95% in tune once it got up to proper running temperature. Seeing as I don't plan to run higher boost than this (with this CR at least) I would hate to have to shell out for the Bosch 044 pump and a rising rate pressure regulator, so I thought to myself there must be some other way to make sure it gets enough fuel.. Enter my homebrew swirl pot and a "high output" clickedi-clak pump!: This pump should deliver 0,54 bar, and beeing gravity fed, and the inlet on the carb almost the same height I should get the most out of this pump. Also the swirl pot means it won't run lean on me on a steep climb and burn a hole in a piston (hopefully ) I decided to remove all of the Choke mechanism as well, most people do this because it can blow shut (but doubt it would happen to me at 0,2bar) However I can see it ruining a lot of the flow, and add to that, pressure could escape around the shaft so it was a no-brainer to ditch it. I never use it anyways, I just dab the accelerator(pump) a couple of times.. Then finally came time to add an airfilter and Tee in the valvecover breather: There's quite a lot of wires and hoses running in there now, and I said I preferred simplicity? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted January 22, 2017 Author Share Posted January 22, 2017 Time for a little update.. Realized there was still room for a few more wires and hoses under the bonnet, so fitted an AC Compressor to handle the air supply as I have another use for my portable 12v version: Then came time to make a raised filler for the fuel tank as it is a right PITA to fill it when its located so far inboards at the back end. Various bits of exhaust tubing and a LR filler tube and cap was used: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted January 29, 2017 Author Share Posted January 29, 2017 So the former clutch pedal was added again, good thing I kept it around Not because I've removed the autobox, but because I wanted to have a true dual circuit brake setup, that doesn't share a single thing! This way I'm always sure of having brakes, no matter what might fail in one of the two systems. It hasn't really ever been a problem, but you never know what could happen, and seeing as it was so easy to do with the leftover pedal I decided to do it There is also the benefit that when I change into rear-wheel drive I can brake the front wheels alone using my left foot, making rear-digs and burnouts much simpler had to trim a hole in the floor pan to be able to refill the brake fluid without removing the floor. But shouldn't be any problem, if it annoys me though, I'm pretty sure there some rubber grommet that fits the hole Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted February 7, 2017 Author Share Posted February 7, 2017 They say Winter is coming to Denmark... I say BRING IT ON!! Anybody want to guess how wide it is now? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qwakers Posted February 7, 2017 Share Posted February 7, 2017 whats that parked behind it in the 1st pic? (and no, i dont mean the quad bike!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted February 7, 2017 Author Share Posted February 7, 2017 35 minutes ago, qwakers said: whats that parked behind it in the 1st pic? (and no, i dont mean the quad bike!) My Dad's 101" Fully restored and Galv'ed everywhere 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qwakers Posted February 7, 2017 Share Posted February 7, 2017 nice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deep Posted February 10, 2017 Share Posted February 10, 2017 On 2/8/2017 at 8:31 AM, qwakers said: whats that parked behind it in the 1st pic? (and no, i dont mean the quad bike!) Don's pet peeve (well, one of them!). How can it be a quad (=4 wheels) and a bike (=2 wheels) at the same time??????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted February 10, 2017 Author Share Posted February 10, 2017 Because it has a handlebar I suppose? Seeing as the word bike comes from bicycle none of them are bikes I suppose because they haven't got pedals Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted February 10, 2017 Share Posted February 10, 2017 Nice. I wish we would get some proper snow already. Cold without snow is just stupid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted February 10, 2017 Share Posted February 10, 2017 Agreed Soren - you could put the outside set on the other way round for reverse traction or are you planning on just going forwards ? With that set up it's quite possible . awaiting some video .. cheers Steve b Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted February 11, 2017 Author Share Posted February 11, 2017 20 hours ago, elbekko said: Nice. I wish we would get some proper snow already. Cold without snow is just stupid. Yeah we finally got some now! But its not really enough to be fun for the 4x4s but enough to be annoying on the daily commute (I guess we're not easy to satisfy?) 20 hours ago, steve b said: Agreed Soren - you could put the outside set on the other way round for reverse traction or are you planning on just going forwards ? With that set up it's quite possible . awaiting some video .. cheers Steve b Unwards and Upwards is what we do right? No reason for looking (read: driving) back right? When I get to proper test them out offroad I might try flipping the outer pair. It does make a huge difference when running single AG-tyres to flip them, much better in sand when reversed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted May 6, 2017 Author Share Posted May 6, 2017 (edited) A wee bit of an update, finally managed to kill one of Optima's and seeing as I'm too cheap to spend on a new one I opted for an ordinary battery at 60£ This meant that I know had to stuff it in a box so I don't get acid all over me in an accident, so a battery box was fitted, which is way too big, but that just means I finally have a little storage room And also me and my Brother have been working on expanding his test area to also include a hill: Edited May 6, 2017 by Soren Frimodt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted May 25, 2017 Author Share Posted May 25, 2017 (edited) I'm continually sorting and modding small things on this to make it a more complete package, much of it is not really worth taking, let alone sharing, pictures of.. However I've just started making a "door-bar" not only for safety but also because I don't really like the look of the angled door-bar when all other lines are horizontal. It will have to be hinged though, as getting in and out would be a right pain otherwise. So here's where I'm at so far: Inserted an old mechanism from a 109 fire-engine into the door-bar which will only be accessible from the inside making the tube smooth on the outside so it doesn't get hung up or torn apart. Next up is devising some kind of HD hinge for the front Edited May 25, 2017 by Soren Frimodt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted May 26, 2017 Share Posted May 26, 2017 I like that! What about doing a halving joint on two bits of tube? ---... '''----- with a bolt through it if that makes sense? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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