Bowie69 Posted August 23, 2016 Share Posted August 23, 2016 Hmm, just had a thought Soren, VWs of that age do the ignition timing via the ECU (I think), the dizzy pickup it just to get a reference, and there are no bob weights or vacuum advance unit on the dizzy... If that's the case, you'll have no advance if you stick a carb on it, and you actually end up being better off running the EFI... (and I know that is not what you want to hear!), in whcih case just using the autobox ECU would make sense then! Got a pic or two of the dizzy? Would be able to confirm... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted August 23, 2016 Share Posted August 23, 2016 Right, for the gearbox, if still interested Page 67 of second PDF, gives the N88, N89, N90, N91 valve openings, handy stuff Page 80 of second PDF gives the pinout for the 38-pin Transmission Control Module and lists : #2 Solenoid Valve 4 -N91- #3 Solenoid Valve 3 -N90- #22 Solenoid Valve 1 -N88- #23 Solenoid Valve 2 -N89- Alternatively page 96-98 of second PDF gives the pinout for the 68-pin Transmission Control Module and lists : #47 Solenoid Valve 4 -N91-#9 Solenoid Valve 3 -N90-#55 Solenoid Valve 1 -N88-#54 Solenoid Valve 2 -N89- Page 99 also has a table that shows : Solenoid Valve 1 -N88-Solenoid Valve 2 -N89-Solenoid Valve 3 -N90-Solenoid Valve 4 -N91- Pull the plug from the TCU, and it almost certainly numbered so you can pick which one to energise from that. So what else did you need? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted August 24, 2016 Author Share Posted August 24, 2016 More than grateful Bowie! However I still don't see how I know shich solenoid is nr:1, 2,3 etc. There are seven all in all, and only four of those are needed for me to manually control each gear (I don't need the Lockup ability) If needs be I can drop the pan on the box and follow the connections from each solenoid and see which is which, but of course baing lazy as I am, I'd rather not With regards to Ignition I've stripped down the engine harness to only the bits needed for the ignition, because as far as I can see it doesn't use the TPS. However should it prove inadequite sourcing a Dizzy from a Golf II With carb is as big a problem as finding sand in the Sahara, I would just like to use what I've got if possible to keep the spending to a minimum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted August 24, 2016 Share Posted August 24, 2016 Sorry, if you have the pin out and numbered and coded solenoids, why do you need to know which is which physically? Only other thing to do is get wiring colours from the schematic... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted August 24, 2016 Author Share Posted August 24, 2016 Oh you have no reason to say sorry, its me being difficult In theory I dont, if only I knew that in, for instance 2nd gear solenoid N88 and N91 is energized or nr 2 and 4 or whatever. But it doesn't really say so I think? In the first PDF I can clearly see which solenoid has to be energized to engage 2nd gear, but only on a drawing of the valve block itself, there are no numbers or wiring shown. As far as I can see all those tables only tells me stuff that I need to know if testing the TCM. But I must admit it has been some time since I've last had to go in depth in with this sort of thing. What complicates stuf a bit is the mix of hydraulic and Electric. On my Jeep I could simply switch off the power for the TCM and the gearbox would operate manually, ie putting it in D would engage 4th gear and so it would start and stay in 4th and drive on the converter. There's no avantage in that per say, but the good thing for offroading is that it didn't change down in the middle of a climb, I'm in complete control like in a manual. This is what I'd like for this thing as well. And all I need for this is to be able to activate 2nd and 4th gear as the rest Works manually already Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted August 24, 2016 Share Posted August 24, 2016 Page 67 *edit* well, page 68 actually. Here's the combinations, save you straining your eyes Solenoid: 1 2 3 4 N88 N89 N90 N91 1st : 0 0 0 1 2nd: 0 1 0 1 3rd: 0 0 0 0 4th: 1 1 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted August 24, 2016 Author Share Posted August 24, 2016 I think the penny is dropping ever so slowly Bowie I figured page 67 was about what the display on the VAG Tool would show, but if I get it right, it suggests that to engage second it would be 89 and 92 that needs activating? and in 4th alle four, ie 88, 89, 90, 91, Correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted August 24, 2016 Share Posted August 24, 2016 Woohoo I think they are reasonable assumptions (see edited post above) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted August 24, 2016 Share Posted August 24, 2016 Edited post above to include solenoid Nxx numbers... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted August 24, 2016 Author Share Posted August 24, 2016 Hahaa! Yes it does make sence although it would be a lot clearer if I had that VAG Tool to look at. I'll try it when I get it running and cross my fingers I don't engage two gears at once Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted August 24, 2016 Share Posted August 24, 2016 You thought about energising the lockup solenoid for long descents? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted August 24, 2016 Author Share Posted August 24, 2016 Or to allow me to tow-start it, yes I have, but as the strength of the box is unknown to me, and these boxes aren't actually that common I don't feel like running the risk. Yet atleast.. its a mod I can always do If you ever find yourself stranded in Denmark I owe you a cold one mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted August 24, 2016 Share Posted August 24, 2016 Haha, well I would take you up on that for sure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted August 25, 2016 Author Share Posted August 25, 2016 My goal this afternoon was to get the driveshaft sorted, and I did! Couldn't use the old one as I've moved the engine around a bit, and also this one uses larger CV's (100mm vs 92mm) Then finally Lady-luck smiled at me! If you remember I used the Patrol PAS pump on the diesel engine, this time I wanted to use the VW one because it actually looks to be the same size, it fits nicely on the factory mounts and its easy to sort a new belt. The lucky part was that both the pressure line and return fitted perfectly on this pump as well! Saving me a bunch of hassle: If everything goes to plan I might be able to go for a spin Sunday afternoon, can't promise anything though, as I have to go thrash on my Quad Saturday Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted August 28, 2016 Author Share Posted August 28, 2016 Wow did I get a lot more done this weekend than I had hoped for! Stuff more or less just fell into place. still several small things to do but only really one big thing which is deciding on which carb to fit. at the moment its just running on an old Weber from a Series, but its in really bad condition so won't be running that one for sure. The noise from the single Jaguar XJ silencer is just perfect, nice and rumbly at idle and not too loud at throttle, just enough to get noticed, boy am I glad I got rid of that Diesel! Anyways a video says more than a thousand words: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted September 1, 2016 Author Share Posted September 1, 2016 This weekend should see me giving a go at making the trans shift into all the gears. Started on it today by fitting two microswitches to the shifter to allow me to control the solenoids. It might look like sort of a hack job, but actually it is very carefully ground to just the right shape Chose copper because it is super easy to work with 1st: No solenoids activated 2nd: Two solenoids activated (1 switch) 3rd: No solenoids activated and 4th: Four solenoids activated (2 switches) And with everything dialed in I gave a quick coat of flat black (which is still wet in the picture) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted September 2, 2016 Author Share Posted September 2, 2016 I now have 4 speeds! And to prove it, a little video: https://youtu.be/0577fVKeJjM Next up is modifying the shift gates to suit my needs, I already deleted the lock between "N" and "R" so that I can jump directly from any forward gear to reverse in a hurry. Without accidentally slamming it into "P" 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted September 2, 2016 Share Posted September 2, 2016 Good news, especially for me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted September 4, 2016 Author Share Posted September 4, 2016 It's all fun and games, till somebody drops a bolt into the combustion chamber: So seemingly a (couple) of 6mm bolt(s) have been having a good time in my engine, the weird thing is that it seems like its the exact same bolt that has been in both cylinders! Though you really do wonder how it would jump from one to the other When I took the head off it was stuck to it in the nr.2 combustion chamber (which is also where the piston is from) The weird thing is that bolt could have been in the intake for a long time, you see it happened when I was on a very steep sideslope with the intake at the top, suddenly it began the running rough, with what I thought at the time was knocking from wrong/poor ignition timing. It quickly cured itself though, so I trashed along, and then on the next sideslope (to the same side) the knocking returned and was real bad, so I shut it off and dragged it back home. So of course a right pain and somewhat of a setback, but at least it won't cost a huge deal to repair as the bore isn't damaged at all. And I also learned how easy this engine actually is to take apart So going to order a new piston and some gaskets tomorrow (And no, I wont be changing the other pistons as the compression was great on them (140-150 PSI) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tal Posted September 4, 2016 Share Posted September 4, 2016 I don't know how you got away with so little damage but ...well done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted September 5, 2016 Author Share Posted September 5, 2016 Sure, it could easily have knackered a valve or the head. The monopoint utiizes a preheating element in the intake manifold, an this thing has several "fingers" pointing upwards to split and preheat the A/F mixture.. I'm sure the bolt would've been resting in there until the angle got steep enough for it to fall out, and get sucked into the engine. All in all the repair will only cost me 60£ so not bad at all, considering Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tal Posted September 5, 2016 Share Posted September 5, 2016 thank goodness for little fingers in the right places then ..I guess the angle it dropped from in helped save it since it dropped far enough out of the way to miss anything vital Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted September 5, 2016 Share Posted September 5, 2016 I had a carb butterfly screw fall into a 2.25 petrol, it hammered the piston pretty well... replaced it. Couldn't work out where the screw had come from... Then it happened again, this time I stopped a bit sooner, pulled the head and picked the screw out the piston and re-installed the head -couldn't be bothered to replace it that time Seems like you were more unlucky/piston is not so robust :/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tal Posted September 5, 2016 Share Posted September 5, 2016 kinda makes you wonder what drops out of ...and from where on any off roader, (or road motor tbh) when it has the misfortune to go for a slow roll Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted September 8, 2016 Author Share Posted September 8, 2016 Right then, no piston has arrived yet, and beginning to wonder if it'll even show up before the weekend Anyways, I've got plenty of other projects to tackle Tonight I honed the cylinder (which was quite strange to only be doing to one out of four But is of course a most for proper break-in and ring seal) Then I decided I might as well begin fitting the new Carb.. So here I bring to you the Worlds first (probably) Land Rover 2,25 Solex to VW 1.8 Adaptor plate To keep everything as low as possible in the engine compartment I used as thin a plate as I dared. And why this exact carb you might think? Well its dirt cheap, simple as a hammer and nail and it doesn't mind running at steep angles. Though it might not be the ultimate performance carb, but this is no Formula Offroad buggy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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