Troll Hunter Posted December 29, 2015 Share Posted December 29, 2015 Please, can somebody tell me the internal thread, outboard of the of the CV joints, of the front prop-shafts? Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orgasmic Farmer Posted December 29, 2015 Share Posted December 29, 2015 Unsure what you mean? Are there any threads on a propshaft? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted December 29, 2015 Share Posted December 29, 2015 Assuming here you mean the bit you slide the drive flang on to? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted December 29, 2015 Share Posted December 29, 2015 All the LR cv's I've encountered have a tapped hole in the end of the drive flange spline, unfortunately I can't help with what it actually is, I know you can wind a M10 drive flange bolt into there and it grips just enough to allow you to give the CV a yank out when you're trying to get the circlip and spacers back in after you've had it open... As can be seen in this pic http://www.lrseries.com/resources/user/0/a/9/5/0a9501ef044e9b911ac419011bab804320b5d178/RTC6862-FRONT-AXLE-SHAFT-CV-JOINT.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcan bomber Posted December 29, 2015 Share Posted December 29, 2015 Something like 7/16 unf or Bsf from memory. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted December 29, 2015 Share Posted December 29, 2015 Something like 7/16 unf or Bsf from memory. I think it's BSF Although UNF like you say is another possibility. Some time ago I called in at Teesside Industria lFasterners and got the proper sized screw. Now I've forgotten both where I've put it and what size it was.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcan bomber Posted December 29, 2015 Share Posted December 29, 2015 The difference at that size between the Un and Bs thread is the 5 degree flank angle so either would probably do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted December 29, 2015 Share Posted December 29, 2015 The difference at that size between the Un and Bs thread is the 5 degree flank angle so either would probably do. I'd forgotten that. The pleasures of not working Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troll Hunter Posted December 29, 2015 Author Share Posted December 29, 2015 Sorry,guys, poor wording on my part. Yes, I meant on the outboard end of the CV joint. I want to do exactly what Maverick described, pull the shaft out a shade to get the circlip on. I've got an M10 x 1.25 bolt to grip, but it's not the right size, and I don't want to damage the internal thread and make it unusable. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted December 29, 2015 Share Posted December 29, 2015 Just stick it in at an angle, and pull, even if you damage the thread, it serves no other purpose, plus being CVs they are pretty hard! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcan bomber Posted December 29, 2015 Share Posted December 29, 2015 Sorry,guys, poor wording on my part. Yes, I meant on the outboard end of the CV joint. I want to do exactly what Maverick described, pull the shaft out a shade to get the circlip on. I've got an M10 x 1.25 bolt to grip, but it's not the right size, and I don't want to damage the internal thread and make it unusable. Mike Where you got M10x1.25 from? Standard M10 is 1.5mm pitch... Either way, sod the thread in the CV, it serves no purpose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troll Hunter Posted December 30, 2015 Author Share Posted December 30, 2015 The one bolt from my miscellaneous bolt tin appears to be an M10 x 1.25. It certainly has a finer thread than a 1.5. and, it is not the correct thread for the CV joint shaft. I only have thread gauges for metric and SAE threads, so if it's anything else I can't identify it. Anyway, I did wind it in and gave it a pull, resulting in the thread on the bolt stripping. I'm now stripping down the other side to see if I can tap the seized CV shaft through with a long piece of ground down 15mm re-bar. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted December 30, 2015 Share Posted December 30, 2015 it sounds like you have a problem there Mike , what are you trying to do? cheers Steveb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted December 30, 2015 Share Posted December 30, 2015 I've just been in the workshop to try some plug taps in a cv shaft end and the best fit would seem to be M11 std pitch . I also tried 7/16" UNF and 7/16" BSF both of which only went in a turn. Why M11 is a bit of a mystery as it's by no means a common size . I always use an M10 held at a slight angle to pull it out for the shim/circlip . If it's too tight to do that then there is something wrong. cheers Steveb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troll Hunter Posted December 31, 2015 Author Share Posted December 31, 2015 Thanks for the words of advice. Yes, I'm trying to pull the shaft out enough to get the shims and circlip on. It looks as if I should drop the diff, once I get the shaft out, and check for any wear or damage there! Oh ****! I'll post how I get on. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted December 31, 2015 Share Posted December 31, 2015 my suspect would be the cv "shoulder" has dropped out of the bearing on the inner end of the stub axle , or there is something stopping it seating fully into the bearing ? What's the background to it? cheers Steveb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troll Hunter Posted January 1, 2016 Author Share Posted January 1, 2016 OK. Problem solved. I got the shaft out by removing the axle shaft, refitting the drive member and circlip, and then gently caressing it with my lump hammer. Sorry, I'm suffering from juvenile g'children ATM Mikie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troll Hunter Posted January 1, 2016 Author Share Posted January 1, 2016 OK, senses are gradually returning. Yes, I removed the half shaft by refitting the drive flange and lovingly caressing it with my lump hammer. It seems that the problem stemmed from me being too enthusiastic in seating the half shaft into the diff. It went too far in. As I found out later, by reading the maintenance manual - OMG, don't they make you sick - that it was covered there. I don't know how many times I have replaced bearings or oil seals, but I have never had this problem before. My guess is that I was just lucky. Section 64, page 7, para 63: To ensure proper engagement, grasp the stub axle with one hand and with the other pull the axle shaft into the bush. The shaft and bush are correctly engaged when the end of the axle shaft splines are flush with the end of the stub axle. This condition must be maintained during all ensuing assembly operations. So, many thanks for your patience and suggestions, next time I might just try reading the manual! Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troll Hunter Posted January 1, 2016 Author Share Posted January 1, 2016 OK, job done, on that side, anyway. The problem I had was that I'd put the shaft too far into the diff so that the brass bush didn't seat in the stub axle, and when I fitted the drive member the circlip groove was not accessible. I've done this job a number of times over the years, to replace oil seals or bearings, and have never had a problem. Just lucky, I suppose. Of course, when I looked at the WSM it says to keep the half shaft out of the stub axle to the end of the splines. Don't you just hate it when it's all in the book and you've missed it!! Thanks again for your help and suggestions. So, just the left side to do now. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.