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Front prop-shaft internal thread


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All the LR cv's I've encountered have a tapped hole in the end of the drive flange spline, unfortunately I can't help with what it actually is, I know you can wind a M10 drive flange bolt into there and it grips just enough to allow you to give the CV a yank out when you're trying to get the circlip and spacers back in after you've had it open...

As can be seen in this pic

http://www.lrseries.com/resources/user/0/a/9/5/0a9501ef044e9b911ac419011bab804320b5d178/RTC6862-FRONT-AXLE-SHAFT-CV-JOINT.jpg

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Something like 7/16 unf or Bsf from memory.

I think it's BSF Although UNF like you say is another possibility. Some time ago I called in at Teesside Industria lFasterners and got the proper sized screw. Now I've forgotten both where I've put it and what size it was....

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Sorry,guys, poor wording on my part. Yes, I meant on the outboard end of the CV joint. I want to do exactly what Maverick described, pull the shaft out a shade to get the circlip on. I've got an M10 x 1.25 bolt to grip, but it's not the right size, and I don't want to damage the internal thread and make it unusable.

Mike

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Sorry,guys, poor wording on my part. Yes, I meant on the outboard end of the CV joint. I want to do exactly what Maverick described, pull the shaft out a shade to get the circlip on. I've got an M10 x 1.25 bolt to grip, but it's not the right size, and I don't want to damage the internal thread and make it unusable.

Mike

Where you got M10x1.25 from? Standard M10 is 1.5mm pitch...

Either way, sod the thread in the CV, it serves no purpose.

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The one bolt from my miscellaneous bolt tin appears to be an M10 x 1.25. It certainly has a finer thread than a 1.5. and, it is not the correct thread for the CV joint shaft. I only have thread gauges for metric and SAE threads, so if it's anything else I can't identify it.

Anyway, I did wind it in and gave it a pull, resulting in the thread on the bolt stripping. I'm now stripping down the other side to see if I can tap the seized CV shaft through with a long piece of ground down 15mm re-bar.

Mike

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I've just been in the workshop to try some plug taps in a cv shaft end and the best fit would seem to be M11 std pitch . I also tried 7/16" UNF and 7/16" BSF both of which only went in a turn. Why M11 is a bit of a mystery as it's by no means a common size . I always use an M10 held at a slight angle to pull it out for the shim/circlip . If it's too tight to do that then there is something wrong.

cheers

Steveb

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Thanks for the words of advice. Yes, I'm trying to pull the shaft out enough to get the shims and circlip on. It looks as if I should drop the diff, once I get the shaft out, and check for any wear or damage there! Oh ****! :( I'll post how I get on.

Mike

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OK, senses are gradually returning. Yes, I removed the half shaft by refitting the drive flange and lovingly caressing it with my lump hammer. It seems that the problem stemmed from me being too enthusiastic in seating the half shaft into the diff. It went too far in. As I found out later, by reading the maintenance manual - OMG, don't they make you sick - that it was covered there. I don't know how many times I have replaced bearings or oil seals, but I have never had this problem before. My guess is that I was just lucky.

Section 64, page 7, para 63:
To ensure proper engagement, grasp the stub axle with one hand and with the other pull the axle shaft into the bush. The shaft and bush are correctly engaged when the end of the axle shaft splines are flush with the end of the stub axle. This condition must be maintained during all ensuing assembly operations.
So, many thanks for your patience and suggestions, next time I might just try reading the manual! :blush::blush::blush:

Mike
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OK, job done, on that side, anyway. :i-m_so_happy: The problem I had was that I'd put the shaft too far into the diff so that the brass bush didn't seat in the stub axle, and when I fitted the drive member the circlip groove was not accessible. I've done this job a number of times over the years, to replace oil seals or bearings, and have never had a problem. Just lucky, I suppose. Of course, when I looked at the WSM it says to keep the half shaft out of the stub axle to the end of the splines. Don't you just hate it when it's all in the book and you've missed it!! :blush::blush::blush:

Thanks again for your help and suggestions. So, just the left side to do now.

Mike

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