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can you repair a rear heated screen or light connection?


pigster
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Hi all,

for a defender td5 110 csw

Don't fancy buying a new one at £115 +vat, so is it possible to repair a broken terminal that fixes to the window? its just the rear brake light terminal which has come off completely from the bottom right of the glass when the doors open.

Cheers all.

and happy new year.

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I think (Memory failing a little) that someone actually manage to solder a connection on without cracking the glass.... (Can't find the link just now)

Other than that, search for conducting glue if such a thing exists....

On a legal point, I believe the light only needs to work if it's fitted... So as a short term solution, remove the fitting completely until you have a solution.

You may be able to find an LED version to stick to the glass in the same area and then run wires around the window rubber and connect in the door.

post-1475-0-41283100-1451995602_thumb.png

Mine has something like this, fitted when I had LandyGlass fitted. Try somewhere like "Bolt On Bits" etc.

Neil

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Mark,

I think the OP has a post that has come away from the tracks so no power into the tracks on the screen...

I tried that paint on mine where tracks were worn through before changing the glass but without success.....

Neil

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I've not fixed it on an LR but have done so on a couple of other vehicles. Broken tracks are easy - once you have located the fault. Sometimes you can spot the slight tarnishing at the break, but easier to use a voltmeter. I switched the screen on and used one end connected to earth and with a pin rigged as a probe on the other terminal to narrow down the search. Fixed the break using silver loaded epoxy. You need to remove the top varnish for about a cm either side of the break and then apply the epoxy or silver loaded paint over the exposed length.

Terminals are more difficult! I soldered a length of copper foil to the base of the terminal to extend the surface area of the new connection, silver loaded epoxy to connect the foil onto the track and straight epoxy to bond the terminal back onto the window. Glass needed to be absolutely clean and a good quality epoxy (not polyurethane etc) to fix it.

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You can buy conductive adhesive - but it tends to be quite expensive!

However, you can make your own easily enough.

Get some graphite powder (same stuff used to lubricate locks)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Graphite-Powder-Use-As-A-Lubricant-For-Latches-Hinges-Sliding-Surfaces-Etc-/130844772435?var=430118246579&hash=item1e76f4c853:m:m3GW1t9drZFrjaHDOyan-fw

And mix with slow setting Araldite Epoxy. You need to add about 50% by volume to give you something with low enough resistance for the relatively high current.

Works a treat!

Si

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If you do go the new route and go for the standard window and fittings again, before you bolt the old light back on, sick some insulation tape across the areas where it lands on the glass / heater element to stop the vehicle vibration rubbing through the tracks etc.

It's where they normally fail first.

Neil

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