pigster Posted January 4, 2016 Share Posted January 4, 2016 Hi all, for a defender td5 110 csw Don't fancy buying a new one at £115 +vat, so is it possible to repair a broken terminal that fixes to the window? its just the rear brake light terminal which has come off completely from the bottom right of the glass when the doors open. Cheers all. and happy new year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted January 5, 2016 Share Posted January 5, 2016 A picture if possible would be a great help pigster. Les Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8 Freak Posted January 5, 2016 Share Posted January 5, 2016 I think (Memory failing a little) that someone actually manage to solder a connection on without cracking the glass.... (Can't find the link just now) Other than that, search for conducting glue if such a thing exists.... On a legal point, I believe the light only needs to work if it's fitted... So as a short term solution, remove the fitting completely until you have a solution. You may be able to find an LED version to stick to the glass in the same area and then run wires around the window rubber and connect in the door. Mine has something like this, fitted when I had LandyGlass fitted. Try somewhere like "Bolt On Bits" etc. Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwhacker Posted January 5, 2016 Share Posted January 5, 2016 There is a special liquid you can get to repair the heated screen lines it may work for a light. Failing that run a new live wire to it as the other person has posted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8 Freak Posted January 5, 2016 Share Posted January 5, 2016 Mark, I think the OP has a post that has come away from the tracks so no power into the tracks on the screen... I tried that paint on mine where tracks were worn through before changing the glass but without success..... Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted January 6, 2016 Share Posted January 6, 2016 I think you're more likely to have success with epoxy resin or PU adhesive than solder, but you'll have to keep the parts held together firmly and very still until the glue sets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMB Posted January 6, 2016 Share Posted January 6, 2016 I've not fixed it on an LR but have done so on a couple of other vehicles. Broken tracks are easy - once you have located the fault. Sometimes you can spot the slight tarnishing at the break, but easier to use a voltmeter. I switched the screen on and used one end connected to earth and with a pin rigged as a probe on the other terminal to narrow down the search. Fixed the break using silver loaded epoxy. You need to remove the top varnish for about a cm either side of the break and then apply the epoxy or silver loaded paint over the exposed length. Terminals are more difficult! I soldered a length of copper foil to the base of the terminal to extend the surface area of the new connection, silver loaded epoxy to connect the foil onto the track and straight epoxy to bond the terminal back onto the window. Glass needed to be absolutely clean and a good quality epoxy (not polyurethane etc) to fix it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted January 6, 2016 Share Posted January 6, 2016 You can buy conductive adhesive - but it tends to be quite expensive! However, you can make your own easily enough. Get some graphite powder (same stuff used to lubricate locks) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Graphite-Powder-Use-As-A-Lubricant-For-Latches-Hinges-Sliding-Surfaces-Etc-/130844772435?var=430118246579&hash=item1e76f4c853:m:m3GW1t9drZFrjaHDOyan-fw And mix with slow setting Araldite Epoxy. You need to add about 50% by volume to give you something with low enough resistance for the relatively high current. Works a treat! Si 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pigster Posted January 6, 2016 Author Share Posted January 6, 2016 thank you everyone. very useful and good stuff learned. which is good because the wife has just walked in saying it takes for ever to demist it and only 3 lines work.... ARRRRRRG. a new window maybe needed after all... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon White Posted January 6, 2016 Share Posted January 6, 2016 http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/conductive-adhesives/1015621/ I've used this many times to repair damaged bars on heated rear windows. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8 Freak Posted January 7, 2016 Share Posted January 7, 2016 If you do go the new route and go for the standard window and fittings again, before you bolt the old light back on, sick some insulation tape across the areas where it lands on the glass / heater element to stop the vehicle vibration rubbing through the tracks etc. It's where they normally fail first. Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted January 7, 2016 Share Posted January 7, 2016 Just to add - swapping to an LED bulb will require much less current, so likely to work better with a repaired track. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pigster Posted January 10, 2016 Author Share Posted January 10, 2016 cheers jon and v8 and fridge - I shall order one of these up pronto.. as the 130 has similar issues.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troll Hunter Posted January 15, 2016 Share Posted January 15, 2016 I don't know if this is available in UK,but it's made exactly for your needs. http://epoxyinternational.com/window-defroster-and-grid-line-repair-kit-adhesive Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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