Suffolk Defender Posted January 19, 2016 Share Posted January 19, 2016 Hi all me again! Quick thanks to all so far! Already from joining this forum i have learnt a bit and fixed a few niggles! Chuffed! Now onto learning to service myself and not pay the garage for what i am capable of doing. Things i want to start with are oil changes and greasing. Been under the landy familiarising myself with stuff and notice a lot of grease nipples and i have seen what i think are the areas to drain and fill up with Oil. Front diff Oil Rear Diff Oil Engine Oil Gearbox Oil Transfer Box Oil Starting with engine Oil, i have done a few cars so this is familiar territory. Drain tray, undo sump nut, drain existing oil, remove oil filter with my new filter tool (arrived yesterday!). Stick on new filter do up sump nut and fill back to required level. Do this every 6k or 6 months. Is this correct? How do i know which oil filter to get? I have the oil that my garage uses so happy with that. diff and gear/transmission oils. I have seen a few posts and info to show where the fill points are and the drain points. Seems that an oil pump is needed for some of those locations. Do i use EP90 for all these areas? Anything particular or is EP90 the same what ever you buy? One video i watched said to alway replace the copper washers/ ring on the plugs when doing oil changes. Is this correct? Sorry for all the questions in one post but wanted clarification on my knowledge so far along with sound advice! Melv Defender 110 2.5 N/A Ex MOD 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 19, 2016 Share Posted January 19, 2016 Front diff Oil --- EP80W/90 Rear Diff Oil --- as above Engine Oil --- 15w/40 Gearbox Oil --- ATF Transfer Box Oil -- as for front & rear axles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted January 19, 2016 Share Posted January 19, 2016 I *think* the n/a oil filter is the same as the TD, in which case the Land Rover part number is ERR3340, the Halfords number is HOF249, and the Champion number C145 and yes, you *should* always replace the copper washer.....I keep forgetting to order one for my TDi so it's not been replaced for about the last 4 years...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted January 20, 2016 Share Posted January 20, 2016 Find a local motorfactor, they're usually much cheaper for service stuff than the likes of Halfords. They should also be able to look up the required filters using your registration number (assuming ofcourse that the engine is original to the vehicle!) or failing that they'll have a big book they can use (ensure you have the engine code handy) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 20, 2016 Share Posted January 20, 2016 Have a look at trailerfitters land rover maintenance video's on youtube & in our tech archive, lots of info to digest. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted January 20, 2016 Share Posted January 20, 2016 PAS system = ATF Do the swivels need filling separately? Cue argument about oil/grease... Props should have 3 nipples - UJ at each end plus sliding joint. Buy EP90 in 20L drums from the motor factors or Smith & Allen (10% discount code on their facebook page ), although a single Halfords squirty-bottle of it is useful for filling. A 5L garden pressure-sprayer is also handy. If it's your 1st rodeo: Brake cleaner (5L tin from motor factors) + squirty bottle = best way to clean / de-grease anything especially very oily bits. At least one "blue roll" of workshop tissue (again, motor factors) These drain pans are the least rubbish I've found - very good in fact: Retain old oil bottles for putting the old oil into. TBH I buy all oils in bulk, plus always buy 2 of each filter (even genuine ones are dirt cheap) so I can do a quick service whenever is convenient without needing to worry about having the bits in. Especially true if you off-road it, you never have to think "I'll remember to buy another bottle of oil next week then service it later..." when the oil's been contaminated with water or something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Early90 Posted January 20, 2016 Share Posted January 20, 2016 As the truck is new to you, when you do the gear boxes and diffs undo the filler plugs before you go draining any oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suffolk Defender Posted January 20, 2016 Author Share Posted January 20, 2016 Cheers FridgeFreezer! really appreciate the advice! Slowly getting my head around this. Yes its my first Rodeo! Not sure on Motor Factors - am i right in thinking this isn't a chain? a quick google brings up all sorts of places in my area but no universal branding. I have one of those drain pans from screw fix, they seem to have good reviews, the spout is an excellent idea! So if i get a 20 ltr tub of this that will do for front and rear diff and Transfer box? http://www.smithandallan.com/products/transport-gear-and-transmission/1853-smith-and-allan-heavy-duty-gear-oil-ep-80w-90-api-gl45/ Not known for wading into something until i am damn sure on the detail so hope you dont mind the questions. Melv Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suffolk Defender Posted January 20, 2016 Author Share Posted January 20, 2016 Thanks Early90! I watched a video where they advised this so the flow when draining isn't so erratic, makes sense given the chamber must be air tight i'm guessing. They also mentioned to undo the filler cap slowly to listen for a hissing, which could be an underlying issue with a seal? For reference its this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cZ5VBlONZG4 Melv Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suffolk Defender Posted January 20, 2016 Author Share Posted January 20, 2016 I read a post on another site that has made me slightly paranoid about using the wrong oil. Should i be concerned? https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/ep90-gl5-feck.40791/ I am hoping its ok to reference another landy site? It came up when searching google. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted January 20, 2016 Share Posted January 20, 2016 All the 'boxes and axles have breathers , so not air tight but they are small bore so pulling the level plugs stops the drain flow gulping . I use Jayars motor factors for general parts , and for oils Ipswich hose and Hydraulics on the farthing Road ind. est. are competitive on 25l drums you will need a T55 torx bit for the gearbox filler if it's an R380 - 300Tdi cheers Steveb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Early90 Posted January 20, 2016 Share Posted January 20, 2016 Pulling the level plug also ensures you can fill it up again! My point being any one of them could be rounded/over tightened and as this is your first service you do not know what condition they are in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigelw Posted January 20, 2016 Share Posted January 20, 2016 Not 100% but aren't the front wheel bearings oil lubed on that vintage? If so then draining and refilling front swivels is a good idea, EP90 in there, one thing to remember, you have to remove the lock stop bolt to do these so measure and refit to depth when put back Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suffolk Defender Posted January 21, 2016 Author Share Posted January 21, 2016 I am finding that the EP80W/90 has options of GL4 or GL5 and with the smith and allen site theirs is GL4/GL5.... Can anyone advise what i need to go for on this? As i said above their was concern from other landy users of GL5 that said the oil could corrode Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted January 21, 2016 Share Posted January 21, 2016 With regard to your oils. In short the make up of a GL5 spec oil means it can cause accelerated wear to any brass/bronze components in a gear system... so, as your transfer box has some brass bits, don't put it in there, but a GL5 spec oil can go in your diffs (as no brass bits in there). GL4 spec oil does not have quite the same chemical components of GL5 and wont cause the same damage to brass. I personally bought some GL5 by mistake, so that is reserved for the diffs only. I generally only use GL4 spec oil as I then don't have to think about it! If you're that way inclined (unfortunately I am) I found this article the other week, which was written for the American Market but still some good information if you want to know about oils... Transaxle_oil.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted January 21, 2016 Share Posted January 21, 2016 Yes "motor factors" is a generic term for trade motor supplies places - Euro Car Parts, GSF, Andrew Page are a few of the national ones. Also as Steve suggests it's worth tracking down a decent local hydraulics shop for all things pipey-hosey-adaptery, places like Pirtek or Hyphose. Push-fit pneumatic stuff is incredibly handy, 6mm flavour seems to fit everything from axle breathers to screen washers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted January 21, 2016 Share Posted January 21, 2016 I use GL5 for everything. Word is that current GL5 does destroy bronze like the original spec. I've never had any issues at all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
honitonhobbit Posted January 21, 2016 Share Posted January 21, 2016 I buy genuine filters in packets of 6 - 20 quid for 6, trade... Change the fuel filter when you change the oil - it's easy that way If you buy a s/h hozelock garden sprayer, give it a good wash out and then dry it with a hair dryer or air line. Remove the spray nozzle. This then gives you a five litre oil filler. It will shift EP90, albeit slowly, so much easier than a squirty bottle. I have one for ATF, one for EP90 and one for the enormously expensive TD5 gear box oil... I buy oils from a local multi branch auto specialist for the trade (Hickley Valtone). The supply the trade. A trade card is easy to acquire. I use 10w40 Semi Synth from Comma (so actually Mobile 2000). It's £40 for 25ltrs. I buy GL4 EP 90 in 40 gallon drums - shared with a mate. I also but 5w30 in 25 litre drums - I forget how much that is and ATF in 40 gallon drums. The 40 gallon stuff comes from Shell via an agri dealer. I change all the oils at the same time - always have. I work on the premise that the vehicle is on the lift so I might as well do it all - filters at the same time. Every 3 to 4k miles. The waste oil heats the workshop or gets mixed with Anker Wax from Morison's to protect implements I buy the copper washers in 10 washer packs from eBay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted January 21, 2016 Share Posted January 21, 2016 Just a suggestion: This thread should be in the tech archive for newcomers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigelw Posted January 21, 2016 Share Posted January 21, 2016 For copper washers I saw a video on "annealing" with use of a blow torch to revitalize them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted January 21, 2016 Share Posted January 21, 2016 I have one of these fitted to the sump of my 300Tdi. I have the tube as well. No mor burnt fingers from the hot drain plug. No more hot engine oil up my armpit. http://www.difflock.com/oilsandadditives/drain-plugs Land Rover don't make oil filters, they buy in bulk from which ever filter manufacture is the flavour of the month. According to the Land Rover workshop manual. LM grease is recomended for wheel bearings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted January 21, 2016 Share Posted January 21, 2016 For copper washers I saw a video on "annealing" with use of a blow torch to revitalize them. Jeebus, life's too short for that sort of thing surely? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suffolk Defender Posted January 21, 2016 Author Share Posted January 21, 2016 So due to GL5 not sounding like something i want to play with in my transfer. Will this be ok for transfer and diffs? http://www.smithandallan.com/products/transport-gear-and-transmission/1861-smith-and-allan-hypoid-gear-oil-ep90-api-gl-4/ I posted these guys a question about their EP80W/90 as they state GL4/GL5 - they said: "This is formulated between the two, so the additive content is at the top end for GL-4 and bottom end for GL-5. I assume that the GL-4 requirement is due to yellow metal components in the gearbox. If this is the case I believe that many LR owners go for our EP90 API GL-4." I have not explored locally to me yet and much prefer buying online these days. My local 4x4 garage advised that they use EP90 as there isnt much in it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted January 21, 2016 Share Posted January 21, 2016 Where abouts in Suffolk are you? I normally used Jayar in Ipswich (Holywells road) for all my servicing parts. They quite often have good deals on oils etc and are always very helpful Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suffolk Defender Posted January 21, 2016 Author Share Posted January 21, 2016 near newmarket so bit of a mission to Ipswich, i guess i could start there until i get used this servicing malarky. Buy in bulk would help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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