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Service myself rather than pay the garage


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I use GL5 for everything. Word is that current GL5 does destroy bronze like the original spec. I've never had any issues at all

I presume you mean "doesnt" here?

Many modern GL5's meet (and display) both standards, so it would make sense that modern formulations wont kill a gearbox expecting GL4 given it says GL4 on the can! I've used GL5 oil in gearboxes that specify GL4 on numerous occasions with no problems at all.

The same thing happened with early synthetic engine oils. The early formulations would cause oil seals to shrink, which would cause engines to start leaking oil. Thats no longer the case and you can happily put modern synthetic oil into an older engine without issue. The stories still circulate around though, and you'll still get folk telling you not to put synthetic oil into older engines.

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I presume you mean "doesnt" here?

Many modern GL5's meet (and display) both standards, so it would make sense that modern formulations wont kill a gearbox expecting GL4 given it says GL4 on the can! I've used GL5 oil in gearboxes that specify GL4 on numerous occasions with no problems at all.

The same thing happened with early synthetic engine oils. The early formulations would cause oil seals to shrink, which would cause engines to start leaking oil. Thats no longer the case and you can happily put modern synthetic oil into an older engine without issue. The stories still circulate around though, and you'll still get folk telling you not to put synthetic oil into older engines.

Sorry yes, that should be 'doesn't'

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Ok so to follow on this topic or servicing. Grease!

I have a new grease gun and some Castrol LM Grease. Will this be ok for Props and UJ's?

How do i know when to stop pumping the grease? On my trailer(the only greasing i have done) i have bearing buddies which have a valve, once you see grease coming out of there you know the hub chamber is full and can stop pumping.

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Manual grease guns are great as you can "feel" the pressuring of the grease and stop before you blow the seal and actually see fresh grease, if the seals blow, grease can get out, but remember, grease out = water/mud in!

A tin of wheel bearing grease is tomorrow's invaluable!!! Just keep the lid on it until you need it then lid back on pronto.

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Ok so to follow on this topic or servicing. Grease!

I have a new grease gun and some Castrol LM Grease. Will this be ok for Props and UJ's?

How do i know when to stop pumping the grease? On my trailer(the only greasing i have done) i have bearing buddies which have a valve, once you see grease coming out of there you know the hub chamber is full and can stop pumping.

Castrol LM is fine for all the greasing needs. :i-m_so_happy:

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I thought one was supposed to pump grease until the 'crack' of the seals is heard and a small amount of grease exudes from them?

Have I been knackering my UJs all these years?

Maybe James? If our old senior fitter saw fresh grease oozing from a joint, expect a wallop as he'd launch a cartridge at you, he was brutal! But you learned fast ;)
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I thought one was supposed to pump grease until the 'crack' of the seals is heard and a small amount of grease exudes from them?

Have I been knackering my UJs all these years?

Me too. I pump the grease so that old grease pushes out from the UJ, and the fresh grease is then seen. That way replenishing the UJ with fresh grease.

Maybe this is why I'm getting through UJ'S LOL

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In response to Aragorn's comment about synthetic oil in older engines, post #17, I was told that one reason it isn't recommended is that it tends to clean all the engine internals far better than non-synthetic oils, resulting in greater clearances and higher oil consumption, as well as shrunken seals. In my 30Tdi I run 100% synthetic, 5W-40 in the winter and 15W-40 in the summer, usually Shell Rotella, with no ill effects.

Mike

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tried to get some EP80W/90 GL4 today and it seems to be like gold dust, unless i want to spend £8.49 a litre from Halfords! Went to a Frayars in Thetford, they said they dont have any, he rang around a few other stores for me and they didnt have any.

My garage said they would use EP90 for diffs and transom.

Smith and Allen have Ep40W/90 but has GL5 - which i want to avoid given the sceptical info on this. They said the land Rover boys use their EP90 EL4. http://www.smithandallan.com/products/transport-gear-and-transmission/1861-smith-and-allan-hypoid-gear-oil-ep90-api-gl-4/

@ Western - Am i being to fussy? Im going on your advice earlier in the thread. Shall i just get EP90 EL4 and move on?

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