AngelCarrier Posted January 22, 2016 Share Posted January 22, 2016 My mum has 52 plate Freelander Td4 2litre. Last couple of days she's had trouble getting into gear to start off with then later has to pull over and start from beginning again on motorway etc....could she just be low on gear fluid? Gearbox on way out or something else? "The longer car is stationary the worse she is" (after I offered her my car) " prob best I drive it down Sunday cos you gotta know what your doing with her when she plays up, no point forcing her into gear, I have to pull over, stop engine &I start all over again" (when I offered to take it to garage for her because she works long hours) "I'm 99% sure it's the clutch, when engine is not running goes in every gear once I've started it no gears until it's warm" (but have been told if it was clutch it would get worse as it gets warmer not better) "It's not making any funny noises at all, once warm it's still a bit difficult but manageable" (which was her reply to clutch getting worse not better) Can anyone help? I've just picked up couple of bottles of gearbox fluid but halfords have suggested draining current fluid and starting fresh....could this be right? Or are we clutching at straws? Many thanks for reading Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted January 22, 2016 Share Posted January 22, 2016 If you're asking Halfords for advice you're definitely clutching at straws. What's "gearbox fluid"? Do you mean gear oil (MTF94) or brake & clutch fluid (DOT4)? I assume it's manual gearbox? More likely low clutch fluid or the clutch system is faulty. If you've got to change the slave cylinder (concentric release bearing) you may as well do the clutch while you're in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pscan.eu Posted January 25, 2016 Share Posted January 25, 2016 Clutch hydraulic problems are common on these. If one of the cylinders has gone the pedal will still return to the normal position but the system will have air in it and so it won't release the clutch properly when pressed. The first thing to try is to bleed the system. The TD4 is different to the others because it is not a completely sealed system and so you can bleed it. Most likely this will restore a good clutch for a while (it worked for a few days on ours) but then the biting point will get lower and lower until you can't release the clutch properly again. After that the master cylinder is easy to change. If that doesn't work the slave cylinder is an expensive gearbox off problem to fix. On ours we had to change the slave cylinder so I fitted a metal one made by Tazu and also fitted a new clutch at the same time. It turned out to be no great loss because the clutch plate had hardly any meat left on it anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlton Posted November 14, 2022 Share Posted November 14, 2022 Freelander TD4 "L" 1998 Clutch and gearbox fine when cold, just worsens progressively as engine/gearbox warms up. Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escape Posted November 16, 2022 Share Posted November 16, 2022 As above, start with bleeding the clutch hydraulics. Air in the system will expand as things warm up and that will make the clutch harder to disengage. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlton Posted November 16, 2022 Share Posted November 16, 2022 Will bleed now...Thanks for the heads-up! Absolutely effortless engagement when engine is cold... If if was anything else, clutch plate/pressure plate/synchromesh etc., the problem would be there from the very start.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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