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Defender 90 Galvanised Chassis


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If you mean the TD5 bulkheads, I bought one (so did a mate) for £167 :excl:

Yep, I paid more than twice that for a rust free s/h one.

ok it had history so I knew it wasnt a stolen ebay spesh ,, but made a dent in the rebuild budget.

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Mine arrived this weekend. If you get it delivered, it lives in the van on its side and won't lie flat until it's out the of the van. Unless you have an engine crane, you'll need 5/6 people to make this go smoothy without dropping it. The outriggers make it difficult to manoeuvre.

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As a side note, I thought all Marsland chassis were ROW spec. They're not, so now I either have to take an angle grinder to it, use a metal tank or it's a large paperweight. :(

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Mine arrived this weekend. If you get it delivered, it lives in the van on its side and won't lie flat until it's out the of the van. Unless you have an engine crane, you'll need 5/6 people to make this go smoothy without dropping it. The outriggers make it difficult to manoeuvre.

attachicon.gifImgp9578_web.jpg

As a side note, I thought all Marsland chassis were ROW spec. They're not, so now I either have to take an angle grinder to it, use a metal tank or it's a large paperweight. :(

my marsland 110 chassis has all the fixings for the td5 plastic tank & the older steel tank, my steel tank was in good condition so kept it,

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Well essentially for the plastic tank you just need 4 holes in the right places and the top strap brackets, which it does have still.

What they do change is the under floor supports for the older style, and add the bracket at the back and the front for the metal tank, which would have to be removed to get a plastic tank to fit. Just a bit of a conundrum as I've already spent hundreds on using a plastic tank set up on the 300Tdi. Plus having a correct chassis would have been nice from a purist's point of view.

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Can you send it back?

It's a lot of money for it to not be right.

Depends what was ordered, my 'tdci chassis' has all the brackets for a 1985 petrol 2286 .... Cos that's what I asked for

The only thing you can't get is the original spec rear cross member as that's already glued on at gkn before Marslands get them.

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It's 100% my fault as I took delivery of it and did not check or specify exactly when I ordered. My excuse is that having 7 people standing around in the pissing rain on your behalf with 40mph wind kind of changes your priorities!

I did my research a few years ago and ensured the chassis was as I wanted it. Fast forward to now, when I finally have the money and space, with Defender production ending, I got totally caught up in the moment and never even considered that they'd changed the way they do them. I presumed that the cheapest and easiest thing for them would be to always keep the chassis as unmodified as possible.

I don't have an imminent rebuild so I'll sit on it for a few months and mull it over. If I did want to replace it then i'd probably try and sell this one and buy another. It'd be about £300 in delivery costs to swap it. Or chalk it up to experience and live with it. We'll see

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Reckon you could get a plastic tank to fit anyway, or just live with a new steel tank, the sender unit is easier to access on a steel tank as it's on the left hand side, where a plastic tank has it's pump/sender in the top, so either a tank off job or cut a access hole/panel in rear floor, my steel tank got a few good coats of galvafriod paint then a few coats of chassis black paint.

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I'm buying soon but don't know whether to go metal or plastic. I don't like the look of my metal tank and assume that when I see it bare i'll want to change it.

What's the weight difference? I assume that's the advantage of plastic?

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£300 is a lot :( I was thinking it's worth telling them even if it's your mistake: they may have an order for the one you've got and the one you want as a cancelled order. If you hired a van for a day would it cost £300 to drive there and back ?

At the othe end of the scale - and excuse my ignorance, if you cut the extra brackets off and painted the areas with a zinc rich paint, would it be a huge compromise and a greater risk in real terms?

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I reckon it's worth painting a galv chassis anyway so any modifications could be protected, at least you know exactly what area is compromised and if your careful the damage to the galv is slight and outside where you can see it.

Me, I'd prefer to fit a plastic tank on my 90 and would have chosen one in a heartbeat, but it's an under seat one and ( I don't believe ) anyone makes one.

A tin of Galvafroid paint is handy to have around when you are doing the rebuilding anyway in case you catch it with tools etc but to a point galv scratches heal over.

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I'm buying soon but don't know whether to go metal or plastic. I don't like the look of my metal tank and assume that when I see it bare i'll want to change it.

What's the weight difference? I assume that's the advantage of plastic?

I went plastic for having no corrosion issues and having more modern/reliable fuel connectors. Plus I was having the rear crossmember replaced.

The plastic tank is about 10 litres smaller in capacity, so would be a lot lighter in this regard, but otherwise it's not much different.

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£300 is a lot :( I was thinking it's worth telling them even if it's your mistake: they may have an order for the one you've got and the one you want as a cancelled order. If you hired a van for a day would it cost £300 to drive there and back ?

I mentioned it and got a curt and unemotional response. £300 is an estimate on £120 trailer, plus 400 miles round trip to where the chassis is, plus 500 miles round trip to their site. If it comes to it, it may be easier to sell this one locally and order another. But this is only really a last resort heart-over-head kind of decision.

At the othe end of the scale - and excuse my ignorance, if you cut the extra brackets off and painted the areas with a zinc rich paint, would it be a huge compromise and a greater risk in real terms?

I know that practically speaking, it would probably be fine. There is the sacrilegious aspect of cutting into fresh galv, which tends to get a few gasps on this forum!

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The gasps are overrated!

Galvanising isn't some magic coating that if scratched let's the rust/water in, out acts as a sacrificial anode, corroding first before the steel.

On steel hulled boats you would bolt a lump of zinc to the hull to do pretty much the same thing. It worked.

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