Jump to content

Stall on start, Fast idle 4.2 Rover v8


mad_pete

Recommended Posts

Okay seems like something else is getting power off that circuit. If I turn the engine on the idle valve does do something so I think it is correct but something else is doing something too. If I turn the ignition off with the idle valve connected the engine keeps running for an amount or time so either the ninth injector is running or the squirt is able to draw power from that connection somehow. As soon as it's disconnected it stops. The tick tick could be the ninth injector running and the reason it was grumpy before was it had flooded the engine a little?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's hotwire, you shouldn't have a ninth injector?

The ECU could be back-powered by 12v on that wire.

The hotwire loom has duplicated colour codes (some dashes, some stripes) and wires that change colour half way through the loom so you need to be very sure what you're connecting. Running one new wire might be easier, even if just temporarily?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

and 2 new wires it is happy, apparently not having it connected or having it connected to other random parts of the engine can impact performance. Tiny bit of hunting but much better and doesn't try to run away in drive or 1300 when idling in neutral. Do we have a section with idle valve settings people are using posting up. I don't yet understand what all the settings do and always useful to have something to copy.

I might turn the engine idle down so the valve isn't working at it's min value.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

I had the identical problem. First start would always crank, fire then die. Second crank was always fine.

Can't remember how i solved it though, sorry :(

G

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mine was also doing that and I seem to have solved it, you can set how long your Bosch valve stays completely open after the start, longest value is 255, that seems to give the engine enough time to find itself and when the valve closes mine dips briefly below 650

(even though I have the idle bypass valve at a higher idle that that, don't quite understand why yet)

And then it settles.

I also found that upping my after start enrichment has helped, but....as I am learning with megasquirt, rather try small increments that changing it by 20% cause then it unbalances something else and that doesn't work again..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

bodumatu - Things do affect each other, that's the nature of engine tuning! The knack is learning the hierarchy of settings, what to fiddle with in what order. Generally I'd say you want to get the ignition table right above all else, and then leave it alone. Then the fuel table, and only then tinker with all the enrichments and additions that happen at various times (crank, after-start, warmup, accel, decel/over-run, etc. etc.).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy