Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Can somone point me in the right direction with setting my handbrake, the cable snapped a while ago and has been replaced, over time its stretched as youd expect, i have tighened the cable and now the handbrake lever stops dead half way up (without feeling like its getting tighter before it stops) and i can still push the vehicle along in neutral with the brake on, turning the adjuster doesnr seem to help, i think i have set it correctly (brake off, jack up one wheel, spin the wheel and tighten the adjuster until you hear rubbing then back off slightly)

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello.

Your avatar shows a 90/110 defender rear and if you have drums on the rear it could be a 200tdi.

You need to be adjusting the transmission brake drum which is your handbrake.

Do a search on the www it will have plenty of pointers or get a workshop manual (although these are not to be read as gospel if you know what i mean.

Good luck

Link to post
Share on other sites

You have to set both the adjuster and the cable slack. See the manual...

I would suggest pulling the handbrake and giving it an overhaul regardless. They need to be cleaned and lubed every couple of years at the longest. I find it is easiest to remove the whole assembly and do the overhaul on the bench. Once you are familiar with the job, you can do it all in an hour.

Link to post
Share on other sites

@ cornish - i had to buy a new drum the other week as mine decided it wanted to be on the M4 more than on the car so i can say the shoes are still intact, altho the whole assembly is covered with oil mixed with brake dust from the Tbox (pinion seal now replaced)

@red90 - iv had a look in the haynes and a LR manual on the net and they both describe what i have done, but im confused as to why the brake lever will stop dead without building up resistance first and not engaging the shoes with the drum

Link to post
Share on other sites

If the shoes and the drum are contaminated with oil then the shoes need replacing and everything else needs cleaning.

The handbrake will not offer any friction which is why you are pulling it until a dead stop and it still doesn't hold the vehicle.

Link to post
Share on other sites

@red90 - iv had a look in the haynes and a LR manual on the net and they both describe what i have done, but im confused as to why the brake lever will stop dead without building up resistance first and not engaging the shoes with the drum

The expanders get stuck in the bores and the brake does not actuate. Normally one shoe goes first and then the next. You need to pull it apart, clean and lubricate the expanders. They do not have any seals and get stuck as the lube is replaced with rust and dirt over time.

It is a simple job.

- Unbolt the propshaft.

- Loosen the adjuster fully.

- Disconnect the cable.

- Remove drum.

- Unbolt assembly from transfer case (4 bolts).

- Take to bench, and pull apart the expander and adjuster. Clean, lube and re-assembly.

- Put back on and adjust both the adjuster and the cable free play. You will then have an amazing brake...

If you find the shoes covered in oil....they need to be replaced. The transfer case flange needs a new seal (another easy job).

Have fun. Not too hard and something every Defender owner should know how to do.

Link to post
Share on other sites

ok i have replaced the Tbox seal so no more oil is coming out, can the assembly be removed without removing the prop flange? putting it back on i used a windy gun and dont have access to it anymore so getting the pinion nut off will be nearly impossible with hand tools

Link to post
Share on other sites
can the assembly be removed without removing the prop flange? putting it back on i used a windy gun and dont have access to it anymore so getting the pinion nut off will be nearly impossible with hand tools

Nope, handbrake drum & forward end of rear prop have to be removed to gain access to the shoes,expander,adjuster.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Do you have a long bar for your socket? This will provide enough torque to undo the nut but there isn't much room to move it if the truck is on the ground. Also you will need to hold the TBox output shaft - this can be done by putting it in gear and chocking the wheels. It does take some turning to overcome the 'give' in the tyres as you start to apply torque and they squeeze against the chocks.

Otherwise IIRC you can hold the pinion by jamming a bar into two of the prop bolts.

Someone who has done this more times than I have will hopefully confirm or correct me!

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have got a long bar (600mm i think, was the longest in halfords) its just annoying cause after rebuilding the prop and everything i felt like i was done with faffing around under the car, cheers for the input guys anyway

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy