Anderzander Posted March 8, 2018 Share Posted March 8, 2018 It’s all looking fantastic ... what exhaust is it? Is it a Steve Parker one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted March 8, 2018 Share Posted March 8, 2018 On 05/01/2018 at 10:19 AM, Cornish Rattler said: Just put an order in at Steve Parker's for my 300tdi-series exhaust kit, just need to get an exhaust manifold now Found the answer to my own question...... Cant decide what to do on my 80” for the exhaust. I though about these - but it’s expensive to then have to cut and shorten to fit. I’ve also though abought taking it to one of the custom stainless places and getting one made - can’t decide! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cornish Rattler Posted March 8, 2018 Author Share Posted March 8, 2018 8 minutes ago, Anderzander said: Found the answer to my own question...... Cant decide what to do on my 80” for the exhaust. I though about these - but it’s expensive to then have to cut and shorten to fit. I’ve also though abought taking it to one of the custom stainless places and getting one made - can’t decide! Yeah they only do them for S2's and 3's could you not use a strait through pipe and have a rear silancer like an S2/3 just a thought Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cornish Rattler Posted March 10, 2018 Author Share Posted March 10, 2018 Got a bit bored today so decided on digging the heater out and giving it a good clean out but as it happened it was quite clean inside and painting it, sprayed it in mat black for now but I may well re-do it in gloss black when I come to fit it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cornish Rattler Posted March 10, 2018 Author Share Posted March 10, 2018 Some more Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cornish Rattler Posted March 10, 2018 Author Share Posted March 10, 2018 Last one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigj66 Posted March 17, 2018 Share Posted March 17, 2018 The Matt black looks good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cornish Rattler Posted March 20, 2018 Author Share Posted March 20, 2018 On 3/17/2018 at 8:46 PM, Bigj66 said: The Matt black looks good. Tbh the pic's doesn't do it justice as the matt black is a lot darker than it looks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cornish Rattler Posted April 10, 2018 Author Share Posted April 10, 2018 On 08/03/2018 at 8:09 PM, Anderzander said: Found the answer to my own question...... Cant decide what to do on my 80” for the exhaust. I though about these - but it’s expensive to then have to cut and shorten to fit. I’ve also though abought taking it to one of the custom stainless places and getting one made - can’t decide! Yeah they only do them for S2's and 3's could you not use a strait through pipe and have a rear silancer like an S2/3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cornish Rattler Posted April 10, 2018 Author Share Posted April 10, 2018 Going away next month Son's wedding in Cyprus so yesterday i brought all the body work into the garage from the garden Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arjan Posted April 10, 2018 Share Posted April 10, 2018 Looking very, very nice ! I'm into wiring the Hybrid now - the 200 Tdi is in and works very well.. My chassis is also galvanized - an original '62 one - after we did some mods to it, as is the bulkhead. a used one we rebuild and dipped. 25 years later it is still perfect... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cornish Rattler Posted April 10, 2018 Author Share Posted April 10, 2018 7 hours ago, Arjan said: Looking very, very nice ! I'm into wiring the Hybrid now - the 200 Tdi is in and works very well.. My chassis is also galvanized - an original '62 one - after we did some mods to it, as is the bulkhead. a used one we rebuild and dipped. 25 years later it is still perfect... Nice, can't wait to get the wedding over and done with so i can concentrate more on the landy, summer is going to be very busy on the landy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cornish Rattler Posted May 7, 2018 Author Share Posted May 7, 2018 Not long now and I get paid the day before we get back so 2a here we come 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted May 7, 2018 Share Posted May 7, 2018 On 14/01/2018 at 4:14 PM, Cornish Rattler said: So I take it a 300 dipstick tube won't fit then I’m late to this - but the answer is no.... My plan was to use the 3OO tube with the 200 nut - but the 300 tube is pressed steel with a flare at both ends, so I can’t slide the nut on with an olive to nip it up. I’ve gone back to the 200 and it’s now bent in a kind of S shape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cornish Rattler Posted May 7, 2018 Author Share Posted May 7, 2018 3 hours ago, Anderzander said: I’m late to this - but the answer is no.... My plan was to use the 3OO tube with the 200 nut - but the 300 tube is pressed steel with a flare at both ends, so I can’t slide the nut on with an olive to nip it up. I’ve gone back to the 200 and it’s now bent in a kind of S shape. Yeah i will have another look after me hols as i'm just worried the more bends in the tube the more the dipstick won't read right Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted May 7, 2018 Share Posted May 7, 2018 Well the stick will be bent too, so no worries there..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted May 7, 2018 Share Posted May 7, 2018 The bends are ok - my only concern is if the olive has moved and changed how deep the tube goes in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cornish Rattler Posted May 21, 2018 Author Share Posted May 21, 2018 The wedding is now out of the way and just one more week to go in Cyprus then i can turn my mind to the 2a again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cornish Rattler Posted May 28, 2018 Author Share Posted May 28, 2018 I'm back home now so I will start ordering stuff to keep me going Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Sparkes Posted May 28, 2018 Share Posted May 28, 2018 On 10/03/2018 at 8:57 PM, Cornish Rattler said: I am concerned that the fan is misplaced in the housing. From my experience ALL of the fan blades should be inside the casing. When correctly mounted, the casing is held away from the bulkhead; the air should flow across the back of the heater, being drawn into the centre of the fan opening. The rotating fan then throws the air sideways, through the heating elements, and out of the holes in the casing. When the fan blades protrute even partially from the back of the casing, the exposed blades of the rotating fan blows some air (unheated) across the back of the casing. A two way flow is set up in the narrow space between the heater casing and the bulkhead, restricting the air flow THROUGH the heating elements. Heating output is thus reduced by two factors, restricted flow of incoming air, reduced flow of blown heated air I only discovered this after mounting a 'new to me heater' into a S2A previously without a heater. The outwards flow at each end of the heater is obvious once all the proper outlets are closed or taped off. The flow can be detected by hand, or by paper held partially over the heater to bulkhead gap. 'My' heater had been assembled without any spacers between the fan motor flange and the front casing, so I made some. Yours has some spacers so you might just need to increase the distance with some washers. I think the locking nuts are a bit overkill; using standard nuts will give you the additional stud length you will need. Just make sure the fan is positioned on the shaft to be as close to the motor as it can be, and don't pull the motor / fan assembly so far forward that the blades catch the fan speed resistor or its wiring that is within the front of casing. Regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cornish Rattler Posted May 30, 2018 Author Share Posted May 30, 2018 On 5/28/2018 at 10:31 AM, David Sparkes said: I am concerned that the fan is misplaced in the housing. From my experience ALL of the fan blades should be inside the casing. When correctly mounted, the casing is held away from the bulkhead; the air should flow across the back of the heater, being drawn into the centre of the fan opening. The rotating fan then throws the air sideways, through the heating elements, and out of the holes in the casing. When the fan blades protrute even partially from the back of the casing, the exposed blades of the rotating fan blows some air (unheated) across the back of the casing. A two way flow is set up in the narrow space between the heater casing and the bulkhead, restricting the air flow THROUGH the heating elements. Heating output is thus reduced by two factors, restricted flow of incoming air, reduced flow of blown heated air I only discovered this after mounting a 'new to me heater' into a S2A previously without a heater. The outwards flow at each end of the heater is obvious once all the proper outlets are closed or taped off. The flow can be detected by hand, or by paper held partially over the heater to bulkhead gap. 'My' heater had been assembled without any spacers between the fan motor flange and the front casing, so I made some. Yours has some spacers so you might just need to increase the distance with some washers. I think the locking nuts are a bit overkill; using standard nuts will give you the additional stud length you will need. Just make sure the fan is positioned on the shaft to be as close to the motor as it can be, and don't pull the motor / fan assembly so far forward that the blades catch the fan speed resistor or its wiring that is within the front of casing. Regards. Thanks for that Dave, i'm pretty sure the blades are inside the casing but it was something I never thought about when removing the heater and painting it, I need to get all the bodywork back outside again now i'm back off my hol's so once I've done that I will have a look at it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cornish Rattler Posted June 3, 2018 Author Share Posted June 3, 2018 (edited) Once i've got the bulkhead and put the bodywork back outside to give me back the room in the garage i will remove the engine and gearbox again, send the gearbox away to have it recon'd and have the trannybox uprated and paint the engine, was going to paint the block BMC engine green but have decided on black with the rocker cover and inlet manifold already painted silver, i'm going with black silicon hoses with painted silver steel pipes rather than have it looking boy racer ish with blue silicon hoses and i plan to re-use the original air filter aswell. Edited June 3, 2018 by Cornish Rattler Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted June 3, 2018 Share Posted June 3, 2018 Have I missed a post about the gearbox? Why the rebuild? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cornish Rattler Posted June 3, 2018 Author Share Posted June 3, 2018 Yeah i only refitted the gearbox and engine tempory to make room in the garage as i had the 2a in bits aswell as the 90 i had at the time but will be sending the gearbox away to have the work done 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cornish Rattler Posted June 4, 2018 Author Share Posted June 4, 2018 14 hours ago, Anderzander said: Have I missed a post about the gearbox? Why the rebuild? I let a mate look at it a while back but when he saw it he said he wasn't compitant enough so i decided to get it done profesionally later in the build Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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