Maverik Posted March 8, 2016 Share Posted March 8, 2016 Hi folks, moved house so got a new workshop which needs a mega bench installing... I've come up with this, which is pretty similar of what I had in my last place but this time its all going to be steel rather than wood, so hopefully being a bit more solid and take up less room than timber, the sections I've got coming are mainly 5/6mm thick box/ angle with a 10mm plate for the worktop... anyone got any advice that might want to share? I've done my research with regard to the height, so been quite careful selecting it, taking into account my height and what I'll be doing on the bench... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted March 8, 2016 Share Posted March 8, 2016 How come your letting a woman into your man cave? I can't see any food or drink in her hands? I would build it in situ so that the bench is level even if the floor isn't and I don't know what your doing with it but I like a thick wooden top for general pottering. The supports for the shelves look quite intrusive could you reduce their size or put them above in tension instead? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
De Ranged Posted March 9, 2016 Share Posted March 9, 2016 I'm with cynical a thick wooden top for general work.... but as annoying as the leg under the vice is, you need it there I would suggest clearing the corner of the bench as this is real handy for those things that don't balance when you put them in the middle section and also for hitting things, eg forming a corner on something, laying akward things flat so you can hit part of them.... I'd also suggest using the 10mm plate here and do a reinforcing plate under the corner as well... I'd also suggest putting a leg here to support things when you hit em lol but step it back in say 6" so you can hang things around the edge Thats about all I'd suggest Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zim Posted March 9, 2016 Share Posted March 9, 2016 A 10mm steel top will be nice if braced well underneath. I much prefer a strong steel bench to a wooden one. G 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffR Posted March 9, 2016 Share Posted March 9, 2016 I recycled the bairns tubular metal bunkbeds for my bench. Top is made from two 10mm sheets of ply that were in the garage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted March 9, 2016 Author Share Posted March 9, 2016 Thanks chaps, some good comments for a sense check. I debated long and hard about worktop selection, and decided to go with the heavy plate, as that will be a solid base, If I feel the need then I can put a wood/rubber top on it if it needs it. There's no corner leg on one end as the cabinet below it is my tool chest on wheels so it will need enough room to be driven in and out of that space. I know what you mean about the shelving support being intrusive, I think I'll have to re-visit hanging the shelf rather than propping it... I could probably do a bit of both actually, which would reduce the intrusive aspect of those props. Its not a particularly big space I'm working with so I'm trying to be a bit savvy with the flexibility of the thing. I'm still in two minds as to whether or not a actually build another corner unit to put the drill on and a small bench grinder.... I've got the best part of 500 squids worth of steel appearing on Friday, so If I get the main bench made up I think the rest will just have to be built around that... Materials List 100x50x5mm Rectangular hollow section 7000mm 60x60x6mm Mild steel angle 13000mm 20x5mm Flat bar 6000mm 10mm Plate 2900x600mm 30x30x5mm Mild steel angle 19000mm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted March 9, 2016 Author Share Posted March 9, 2016 I recycled the bairns tubular metal bunkbeds for my bench. Top is made from two 10mm sheets of ply that were in the garage. I've got a bit of a history of ripping vices off wooden topped benches... so I'm kinda determined to make this one bomb proof... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted March 9, 2016 Share Posted March 9, 2016 I'm going to build a removable mount for my vice when I get round to it, might be worth thinking about? Build the bench perfectly square and true, then pack it up to suit the floor level. Otherwise if you move somewhere else you'll have more work to do! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted March 9, 2016 Author Share Posted March 9, 2016 this might work better... but I'm gobbling up space quickly, I've got a tall freezer and drier to go in next to the grinder... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted March 9, 2016 Author Share Posted March 9, 2016 I'm going to build a removable mount for my vice when I get round to it, might be worth thinking about? Build the bench perfectly square and true, then pack it up to suit the floor level. Otherwise if you move somewhere else you'll have more work to do! What's your rational for dismounting the vice? - I was just thinking two holes in the main beam with two tube inserts to stiffen up the mounting holes, then just bolt her down. - all my vice's aren't fancy and just have 2 mounting points one, either side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted March 9, 2016 Share Posted March 9, 2016 The bench part of mine is 2.4m long and there are times I want access to all of it. Axle work/fabrication stuff etc. It will also mean I can drop it in one of two places on the bench. Going to build it with a socket side bit of box section reaching down to the bottom of the bench to spread the load. They'll then be tied into my existing uprights on the bench so the mounts will be about 1/3rd distance in from each end. Will also mean I can make other stuff to mount in the same way, bench grinder being on the list at some point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted March 9, 2016 Share Posted March 9, 2016 I'm struggling to get stuff in my workshop as I still want space to get a car in to work on when I need to so I've put a lot of stuff on wheels. I can spread out normally but wheel stuff to one end or round to the other garage when I want to work on a car. I haven't got the layout quite right yet but I've another machine coming at some point so I don't want to spend too long until that comes, it's hard work! I also made a welding trolley on wheels with the welder on the bottom and a large flat top, I find that really handy as when your doing something you can pull it next to you and spread out onto it. maybe you could fit something like that under your drill? Also I've seen people have vices that hinge up and down so when they're up they stick out from the front of the bench (which is handy if you want to put something long sticking down in the vice), when they fold it down it gives clear access to the bench. Usually they have a bit of box straight down to the floor to go under it for when your hammering etc. Have you looked at the range of benches and cupboards costco do, I think they're on their website. Might give you some ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luka Posted March 9, 2016 Share Posted March 9, 2016 Perhaps some interesting ideas from this video picture clip, like the folding tables at 1.32 http://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/2011/06/20/jacks-12-gauge-garage/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 Looks good. Not dissimilar to mine and that has served well for 12 years. Worth adding some tool hangers to the front of the bench. Mine are just a C shape 25x3 bar welded to the frame sticking out like a shallow towel rail. Very handy for hanging pliers & hammers plus you can hang a grinder or two by the guard. I also have a bit of 12mm round sticking out of one end that's good for a hack saw and one really big adjustable wrench. I originally set things up tool wise a lot like yours - then changed it a year in. I moved the things I use all the time (Drill, grinder, linisher, power tools, spanners) closer to the centre on either side of the vice and the other things (bench knife, folder, fly-press, tool boxes). I have one shallow shelf above the bench for nick-nacks - drill bits, cutting disks, useful looking unknown things. I had put shelves above the bench for storage - but found the bench was dark. I moved them and replaced with a couple of strip lights and used the wall space to hang spanners etc right in front of me - at least the ones I use most often. Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted March 10, 2016 Author Share Posted March 10, 2016 Good points Si, I'd not thought about a draw or two, could be handy, also like the idea of the hanging bar. - Its difficult as this is the first time I've got my own space, its always been making the best of what was installed before and not wanting to do any work to it as it wouldn't benefit me in the long run... I quite happily forgot that I've got my portamig, the bearing press I made and a 3t engine crane to slot in somewhere too... The lighting is pretty poor generally, so looking forward to installing some new lights of which I'll put under the shelf, B&Q have a huge selection of LED lighting now which is nice and compact. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 The shelf above isn't necessarily a problem for light. Part of the design of mine was space above for storage, but that meant I've then got a perfect place for more lights. so my 2.4M bench has 3 x 2' Twin tube fittings across it so I've got plenty of light Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted March 10, 2016 Author Share Posted March 10, 2016 I'm going to try avoid more strip lights as they're a pain in the behind to dispose of when they go pop... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 I have a steel top on steel box section legs for my bench but I have a sheet of 18mm shuttering under the steel plate, it seems to keep the noise down a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoffbeaumont Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 Watching this with interest, as replacing my workbench is on the to-do list (though not top of it at the moment!). Mine's just a large old desk - fairly solid for what it is, and it's served me well, but not ideal, and it spent a lot of time outside in the rain while the garage was rebuilt so it's now past its best as well. Lighting isn't a problem for me - the bench is under a large window and has an extra striplight above it for when there's not enough natural light. Does mean no shelving above the bench is possible, but there's a large windowsill. For undercupboard lighting, what about LED tapes (they type used for undercupboard lighting) - we used these (the single colour warm white and suitable drivers) in our kitchen, and I'm really impressed with them: https://www.simplelighting.co.uk/led-tape/ They give plenty of light, easy to run wherever you want (especially in a workshop where you probably don't care about concealing things - but the tape is only about 10mm wide and quite low profile (I ran one length in a groove routed into the bottom of a shelf). Simple lighting were recommended by our electrician as they'll supply everything made up to length and he's never had to replace anything from them (the tape itself is actually a 3M product). I actually reckon the LED tape has possibilities for in-vehicle lighting - I've kept the offcuts to experiment with! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 Nigelw used LED tape in his disco Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 How about doing a Nige and having a bench made out of sleepers and breeze blocks? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 I'm going to try avoid more strip lights as they're a pain in the behind to dispose of when they go pop. My local recycling place has a bin for them... however a quick drop and sweep up solves the issue if your nearest centre is miles away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted March 10, 2016 Author Share Posted March 10, 2016 Some Trailer lighting I did fore the team the year before last, still holding up well against the abuse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 Have you seen these? https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Lighting_Menu_Index/Lamps_and_Tubes_Index/LED_Tubes/index.html LED replacements for fluorescent tubes. They are a direct replacement. I plan to replace my tubes as they die. I'm hoping they will be a bit brighter! Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.