bnamunds Posted March 9, 2016 Share Posted March 9, 2016 Just bought a new galvanized chassis from Marsland to fit to my LR Defender 90. I'd like to paint it black to protect it further from rust and also cover up the shiny galvanized metal. I was going to use POR-15 products to clean, etch, and paint it, but I spoke with POR-15 technicians and they definitely don't recommend their products for galvanized metal. What is they best way to clean, etch/prime, and then paint a galvanized chassis? What products specifically? What have others done that worked well? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted March 9, 2016 Share Posted March 9, 2016 Not directly to fresh galv but by using twash/mordant solution POR15 works great . I spoke at length with Frosts about using it over Galv and that was what they recommended along with the POR15 metal prep solution. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orgasmic Farmer Posted March 9, 2016 Share Posted March 9, 2016 my Ifor Williams trailer was galvanised from new and is now 25 years old and doesn't have even the slightest hint of rust on it despite never being kept indoor. Paint will help how it looks, but will have fallen off long before it has done any extra protecting. PS the galv will lose its shininess pretty quickly too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 If you want really durable paints BuzzWeld sell the Corroless products which seem to be good, or look at Jotun marine paints - they both have primers for galv, though normally as already said you would use mordant solution first on fresh galv. I have used Jotun Penguard primer followed by Hardtop XP very successfully on a galved rear crossmember. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 The rear cross member is best etched and sprayed with satin black. POR15 would be good, but I just used Rustoleum and got a very good result. The rest I bursh painted with Hamerite's (renaming of Finnigan) Underbody SHeild, which is the brush on version of Schutz, part bitumen and part waxoil. It cant chip or flake and goes on well, and has good anti-corrosion properties in itself. It can be wiped off quickly with solvents if you need to work on a section, though this leaves it a little prone to being locally washed off by fuel or oil leaks. On balance, I think it's very good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boris113 Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 I used roughly the same approach as Snagger, T-wash the chassis first then Hammerite special metals primer, Rustoleum and finally Hammerite underbody stuff It's held up well to stonechips and general wear although the combicolour chips and exposes the primer when the chassis is scraped or a jack is used against it. 4 years or so later the mud still falls off it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 When I painted my Marsland chassis, 1. give it a good wash & dry 2. paint it with Mordant 'T' wash solution, leave on for 15 to 20 mins then wash off & dry 3. primer was a buff colour a tin of old coachpaint primer I bought ages ago. 4. top coat vehicle chassis black bought from local motor factors. 5. inside of all cross members sprayed with black waxoyl. my chassis change thread completed Sept to Nov 2013. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=85416&hl= Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frax Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 I had my one powder coated 5 years ago on top of the galvie and so far all is well although had quite a mat look to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pastycrimper Posted March 13, 2016 Share Posted March 13, 2016 Well I'm about to do this. Looking at special galv primers and then either going Jotum marine paint or POR15 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frax Posted March 13, 2016 Share Posted March 13, 2016 POR15 is good stuff - I used it on my front and back bumper + rock sliders and still good after 5 years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 13, 2016 Share Posted March 13, 2016 Well I'm about to do this. Looking at special galv primers and then either going Jotum marine paint or POR15 get some Mordant T wash for it first before paint, got my 5litre T wash via ebay http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xmordant+t+solution.TRS0&_nkw=mordant+t+solution&_sacat=0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pastycrimper Posted March 14, 2016 Share Posted March 14, 2016 get some Mordant T wash for it first before paint, got my 5litre T wash via ebay http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xmordant+t+solution.TRS0&_nkw=mordant+t+solution&_sacat=0 Cheers Ralph.....anyone got ideas on primer after T-Wash or just go straight with POR15 application after T-Wash? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pastycrimper Posted March 14, 2016 Share Posted March 14, 2016 I'm just reading this aticle (http://www.galvanizing.org.uk/learn-more/painting-and-powdercoating/guidelines-pre-treatment-for-painting/) - it suggests galvanised surface has been left for a while then maybe etch primer better than T-Wash? Seems T-Wash works best very shortly after galvanising. My chassis was galvanised and stored just over 6 months ago..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eightpot Posted March 14, 2016 Share Posted March 14, 2016 Is it really worth going to the effort of painting a galv chassis?? What's to be gained? I've got a 25 year old Defender that had a galv chassis from new and its lived by the sea for most of that time, the doors turned into crispy lace cornflakes but the chassis doesn't have a hint of rust! (It was used for launching sea fishing boats too..) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pastycrimper Posted March 14, 2016 Share Posted March 14, 2016 Is it really worth going to the effort of painting a galv chassis?? What's to be gained? I've got a 25 year old Defender that had a galv chassis from new and its lived by the sea for most of that time, the doors turned into crispy lace cornflakes but the chassis doesn't have a hint of rust! (It was used for launching sea fishing boats too..) Agreed to a point - one issue is that thieving scoundrels will preferentially target a galavnised chassis if they see it. And secondly protecting the galvanised coating will make it last slightly longer but as you point out it is the galvanising that provides the long term protection not an overcoat. To be honest I've spent so much on parts for this rebuild I want to do every last thing I can while its in pieces to help longevity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted March 14, 2016 Share Posted March 14, 2016 POR recommend their 'metal prep' another liquid that I sprayed on. Leaves it with a sparkly zinc rich coating. So twash-rinse-dry-metal prep-dry-POR first coat-POR second coat. Twash works on any type of galv.... It's just designed to accelerate the aging process. I can't remember exactly but to avoid using twash it's at least a couple of years outside. I look at the extra protection as a small bit of effort in the grand scheme of things, and aesthetically I prefer the black. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pastycrimper Posted March 14, 2016 Share Posted March 14, 2016 Anyone know how much POR15 is needed to do two coats on a 110 chassis approximately? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted March 14, 2016 Share Posted March 14, 2016 My 90 chassis took I think 3 or 4 of the little tins for two coats. They come in a pack of 6. the little tins are best as you'll never get the lid off again on a big one if you've spilled it on the rim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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