lunepilot Posted November 23, 2006 Share Posted November 23, 2006 Hello Got a problem with play in front wheels.When wheels are raised, and gripped at 12 and 6'o' clock position i can detect some play in both wheels. I have adjusted bearings,and there is no growling or rumbling noise from them. The swivel pin housing does not leak, and i filled with one shot grease about 6 months ago. When underneath, and someone else rocking wheel i can see hub move but not the swivels. I did have front end bump 2 months ago with some heavy braking involved i.e locked up but damage was cosmetic. I would be grateful for any suggestion,s Thanks Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orgasmic Farmer Posted November 23, 2006 Share Posted November 23, 2006 From the description it can only really be the bearings. Just tightening them will not stop the play if they are worn out. And worn bearings won't necessarily growl or grumble. Tis a messy job but not especially hard or expensive, I would replace the bearings first and see if that cures it. But make absolutely sure its the hub moving not hte swivel! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freeagent Posted November 23, 2006 Share Posted November 23, 2006 you could rebuild the hub and replace the bearings easily in a couple of hours, its pretty straight forward... just don't buy cheap chinese parts. try to get Timken or FAG bearings, and use a genuine or OEM hub seal... the Britpart ones are garbage. you should get the parts for under £20.... I think theres a write up in the tech archive on how to do it... m@tt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lunepilot Posted November 23, 2006 Author Share Posted November 23, 2006 HelloGot a problem with play in front wheels.When wheels are raised, and gripped at 12 and 6'o' clock position i can detect some play in both wheels. I have adjusted bearings,and there is no growling or rumbling noise from them. The swivel pin housing does not leak, and i filled with one shot grease about 6 months ago. When underneath, and someone else rocking wheel i can see hub move but not the swivels. I did have front end bump 2 months ago with some heavy braking involved i.e locked up but damage was cosmetic. I would be grateful for any suggestion,s Thanks Steve Thanks for the advice it looks like it,s going to be the bearings. I will post back with my findings Thanks again Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lunepilot Posted November 24, 2006 Author Share Posted November 24, 2006 you could rebuild the hub and replace the bearings easily in a couple of hours, its pretty straight forward... just don't buy cheap chinese parts.try to get Timken or FAG bearings, and use a genuine or OEM hub seal... the Britpart ones are garbage. you should get the parts for under £20.... I think theres a write up in the tech archive on how to do it... m@tt. Hello Matt Started to strip down hub,and found slight ridges on Stub Axles were Bearings sit. Is this normal or should Stub Axles be replaced. Gratefull for any input Thanks Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Budgie Posted November 24, 2006 Share Posted November 24, 2006 There are two raised sections on the stub axle where the bearings sit and lower section between them, this is normal. If you have scoring on the bearing sufaces then it's best to replace the stub axle, remember to check if the new one comes with the roller bearing fitted in the rear of the stub axle or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lunepilot Posted November 24, 2006 Author Share Posted November 24, 2006 There are two raised sections on the stub axle where the bearings sit and lower section between them, this is normal. If you have scoring on the bearing sufaces then it's best to replace the stub axle, remember to check if the new one comes with the roller bearing fitted in the rear of the stub axle or not. Hello Thanks for the reply. Checked Stub Axle and mine looks like it should be flat for the length of the axle,i.e no raised sections were bearings fit.However there is a lip on one side of stub which steps up to centre,yet is smooth on opposite side,which makes me think bearings have been wearing stub unevenly. Cheers Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freeagent Posted November 24, 2006 Share Posted November 24, 2006 there should be a machined area where the bearings sit, this helps locate them as accurately as possible. unless you post some piccys its a bit difficult to say if they're knackered or not... the other bit you want to check is the area that the hub seal runs around, if that is badly scored or damaged your new hub seal will last about a week as it'll get torn buy the uneven metal (don't ask me how i know about that) so if tghat area is damaged then its new stubb axle time.... they are around £55 each from what i can remember.... hope this helps... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Budgie Posted November 24, 2006 Share Posted November 24, 2006 I've just had a look in my parts manual and there is only one type of stub axle for the 300 TDi which is part No FTC3154 (they are £32.50 + vat from Paddock Spares) and come with the seal and bearing already fitted. The step only feels like a couple of thou' at most (or maybe mine are just old! ) but the one that commonly has problems is where the hub seal sits, this can often score, causing the seal to leak. When you put the wheel bearings back in (either new ones or the ones you have now) make sure you push new grease into the bearings and give the outside a good covering. I also like to wipe the stub axle and hub seal with grease before I put it all together. If it's a new set of bearings then re-check them after about 500 miles as they will loosen as they bed-in. Have you checked the swivel pre-load, best done with the swivel seal removed, to make sure the play isn't coming from there. This can give a nasty shudder to the steering wheel when you hit a hole in the role. All you need to do is remove the shims under the top pin until the swivel pulls round at the poundage. If there are no shims under the top pin then a new set of swivel bearings will be needed (with some shims!). I can't remember the correct pounds needed but you can use a normal fishing spring balance to check the pre-load. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted November 24, 2006 Share Posted November 24, 2006 300TDi stub axle starting from thread end is machined smooth all the way to the raised land that the oil seal runs on. The smooth area is accurately machined so that the inside of the bearings are a perfect fit. If the stub axle has got a wear mark on one side only where the bearings are, then something was seriously worn to do it. This thread is the replacement of 300TDi wheel bearing. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=8009 Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lunepilot Posted November 24, 2006 Author Share Posted November 24, 2006 300TDi stub axle starting from thread end is machined smooth all the way to the raised land that the oil seal runs on. The smooth area is accurately machined so that the inside of the bearings are a perfect fit. If the stub axle has got a wear mark on one side only where the bearings are, then something was seriously worn to do it. This thread is the replacement of 300TDi wheel bearing. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=8009 Les. Thanks to all for your help ive ordered new stub axle to go with the new bearings. By the way Les your Step by Step guides are great,and have been a great help. Cheers Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason2 Posted November 24, 2006 Share Posted November 24, 2006 Thanks to all for your help ive ordered new stub axle to go with the new bearings.By the way Les your Step by Step guides are great,and have been a great help. Cheers Steve Steve Could you please tell me where you can get and price for "One shot grease" for the swivel pins as I have recently bought a 300tdi and would like to change at the same time as all the other oils. Also how do I know that it's not already been done? Cheers Jason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lunepilot Posted November 24, 2006 Author Share Posted November 24, 2006 SteveCould you please tell me where you can get and price for "One shot grease" for the swivel pins as I have recently bought a 300tdi and would like to change at the same time as all the other oils. Also how do I know that it's not already been done? Cheers Jason Hello Jason I got mine from http://www.lrdirect.com for about £5-50 each side. I dont think you can tell if it has been done before,i just drained as much of what was in out, before putting grease in. Hope this helps Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freeagent Posted November 25, 2006 Share Posted November 25, 2006 Paddocks do a Britpart version of the one shot grease (most Britpart stuff is garbage but the grease is ok) that comes in a squeezy bottle rather than a sachet... its around £3 per side.... m@tt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoffbeaumont Posted November 25, 2006 Share Posted November 25, 2006 Not a sure fire way to tell, but trucks with grease filled swivels will often have stickers at the front under the bonnet to let garages know not to drain them when they service the vehicle - I was given a couple by the garage I bought the grease from. Edited to say: Or the easy way to tell - do you have puddles of oil on your drive under the swivels? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Posted November 25, 2006 Share Posted November 25, 2006 easiest way to tell is take the drainplug out the swivel. if oil falls out they had oil in. with grease unless they are hot (long drive) then nothing will come out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason2 Posted November 26, 2006 Share Posted November 26, 2006 easiest way to tell is take the drainplug out the swivel. if oil falls out they had oil in. with grease unless they are hot (long drive) then nothing will come out. Thanks a lot! I have some stuff to get from Paddocks so I will get some some one shot grease at the same time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Posted November 26, 2006 Share Posted November 26, 2006 this weather stand the grease in hot water for a while before trying to get it in. otherwise you will be there for hours waiting for it to fill the swivel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lunepilot Posted December 15, 2006 Author Share Posted December 15, 2006 HelloGot a problem with play in front wheels.When wheels are raised, and gripped at 12 and 6'o' clock position i can detect some play in both wheels. I have adjusted bearings,and there is no growling or rumbling noise from them. The swivel pin housing does not leak, and i filled with one shot grease about 6 months ago. When underneath, and someone else rocking wheel i can see hub move but not the swivels. I did have front end bump 2 months ago with some heavy braking involved i.e locked up but damage was cosmetic. I would be grateful for any suggestion,s Thanks Steve Hello just an update on the job so far. I changed the stub axles and wheel bearings on both sides,and the swivel ball and bearings on nearside only, due to it being pitted, and leaking. Result is there is still some play but not as bad as before. I adjusted preload on new swivel to about 1.3 kg as per landy workshop manual using spring balance. Vehicle does run ok no violent shaking or wobbles etc. However i saw a tech question in lro mag asking what the pre load was,and the reply was 16 Ibs. Gratefull for any further suggestions Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orgasmic Farmer Posted December 15, 2006 Share Posted December 15, 2006 16 lb is the preload when the hub is assembled with all seal etc. If you are rebuilding the hubs from scratch you set the preload on the bench before fitting the big circular seals and bolting the hubs up to the axle. There is obviously less resitance without seals in place, hence lower value. That is my understanding anyway, I stand to be corrected. So if you set it to 1.3kg with seals and all in place then it is possible that it is all a bit slack still. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lunepilot Posted December 15, 2006 Author Share Posted December 15, 2006 16 lb is the preload when the hub is assembled with all seal etc. If you are rebuilding the hubs from scratch you set the preload on the bench before fitting the big circular seals and bolting the hubs up to the axle. There is obviously less resitance without seals in place, hence lower value. That is my understanding anyway, I stand to be corrected.So if you set it to 1.3kg with seals and all in place then it is possible that it is all a bit slack still. Thanks for the reply No i did the pre load before i fitted the large swivel seal.Although the swivel was bolted to axle when i set it,i would not think this would make much differance, than doing it on the bench. Thanks Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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