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first defender with a lot of questions


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I've just got a 1988 defender 90 it has a 300tdi engine the gearbox has reverse next to first it does 70 mph but it can cruise at 60 comfortable I think I need help fixing a few little things lights work but the clocks have no light feul light came on when I tested the breaks not sure if it's normal had approx just under half a tank the gear box has a little clunk or thud when changing gear when in gear gears feel nice I have never owned a landy before I'm from Keighley if anyone fancies telling me what I need to get fixed or help me in the wright direction

no idea how to work the heaters

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Welcome back to Land Rover Ownership. - part of owning a LR in my opinion is working out how the trucks "tick" and that can be done in a number of ways, as you have a few issue you want to address I'd first point you in the direction of the Technical Archive (http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showforum=15) there is a wealth of recorded information there that can get you started on most jobs on a Defender (be sure to use the Index post to help you navigate through it all (http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=4731).

Then if you're still struggling dive into google with some buzz words of your problem then tag "LR4x4" onto the end and it will search the forum for all the good advice you're looking for e.g.

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=defender+dash+lights+lr4x4&sourceid=ie7&rls=com.microsoft:en-GB:IE-Address&ie=&oe=&gfe_rd=cr&ei=-1kDV6uILvDc8gecrK7AAg&gws_rd=ssl#q=defender+instrument+lights+lr4x4

If you're still non the wiser, pop a post for the individual problem you have in the Defender Forum and then you'll get some good advice appear (usually) :)

I hope that's of some help.

Mav

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Fuel light coming on with the brakes indicates an earth problem.

On your truck, almost everything earths through a single stud on the bulkhead in the engine bay.

post-74-0-67521700-1459842564_thumb.jpg

You can see the stud to the left of the fuel filter. It's the cause of many mysteries! Remove the nut (or bolt) clean all the ring terminals with sand paper, cover in petroleum jelly then reassemble. If that does not fix it, follow the earths for the brake lights, brake light switch etc and make sure they make a good, clean connection to the body / chassis.

There is a braided lead which connects the chassis to the body - might be worth replacing that (Halfords sell something suitable) as they tend to corrode. There will be another braided lead from the starter motor to the chassis leg - same goes for that.

I would do this before you start hunting for other faults otherwise you might just be chasing your tail!

Si

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Welcome!

Light switch for the clocks is also the interior light switch, should be down to the right of the steering wheel with the hazards.

There's always some slack when changing gear as all the little bits of slack throughout the drivetrain add up. How much is too much is very had to say and even harder to explain over the internet.

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Fridge is right - it's not like a car where you can dump the clutch. You need to be a bit gentle letting off the clutch after a gear change. After a few weeks you will do it automatically - and won't notice it.

Unless it's making a BAD noise - it's not a problem. When it makes a BAD noise - you'll know it.

There are all kinds of squeaks, clonks & funny noises - you will eventually tune in to those and be able to diagnose problems by the sound. On ordinary cars, these are hidden from you so you only find out when a wheel falls off! It's a bit like having built in computer diagnostics - but you are the computer!

The heater lives in your cupboard at home! You'll need the 'heater' with a hood when it's raining. The heater controls are the vertical sliders on either side of the dash binnacle (where the speedo & clocks live). The one on the left controls the fan speed. The left of the two on the right is temperature and right is to divert air to the screen (at the top) or footwells (at the bottom). In practice, it doesn't make much difference what you do with these - but they can provide some entertainment on long journeys.

Your Land Rover has Climate control too. The climate inside is controlled by the weather outside! ;)

Si

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I drove it back from north Wales ive never drove anything this old loud clunky but I've got to say I think I'm a new landy fan we had a great laff on the way back the interior switch puts the interior light on but nothing for the clocks I found the heater leavers I don't think there working lol bit more on the feul light it only flickers if stop very hard well as hard as it allows

the clunk/clunks it sounds like it's in the tunnel and another from the rear diff area all in one motion but no excessive wine

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I suspect the light problem is actually a short between wires in the loom to the back of the vehicle, the brake light wire shorting into the warning lamp, or a loose and chafed earth wire from the warning lamp making an incorrect earth and shorting when moving under braking inertia. The brake lights earth directly to the body inside the rear body (inside the internal cover panels behind the rear lights), so shouldn't affect instruments which earth through their senders and through the dash (faulty dash earths do cause instrument problems as many dash components share the.same earths).

I think you also need to repair your keyboard, specifically the punctuation keys. ;)

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In interior light switch is 3-position, and will need the main light switch to be on to illuminate the gauges. If it helps with investigations, dashboard illumination is on a red wire with a white stripe.

The fuel light issue could just be fuel sloshing about in the tank, our ambulance flickers the fuel light below 1/2 tank when starting, stopping or cornering.

There's a thread in the technical archive about adjusting the heater levers & flaps, they can get out of whack with age.

Although a LR takes some getting used to, don't be too quick to dismiss strange noises - it's worth being cautious and checking stuff out rather than have something fall off or break! On a new-to-me vehicle I'd want to do a basic service, check all the oils etc. and grease everything, it's a good way to learn what's what and also spot any potential problems.

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Thanks fridge freezer I take it brit part is poor quality

thanks again

It's often not even that good!

I tend to use Genuine (from a Land Rover Main Dealer or someone I trust) for anything that Turns, Seals or is Safety Critical - and Britpart / Bearmach for anything else.

Si

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  • 2 weeks later...

Tackled the front wheel bairing replaced front pads both sides took it onto a local garage to have a small knock checked out left it there been told it's the exaust knocking but my main concern is I'm now back home and the rear springs are half out out there top mount how can I get them back in

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Small sound I can't figure where it's coming from or what it mite be, so in any gear as I'm building up speed there's a hamster wheel sound, squeek squeek I'm at 30 and steady away it starts if I let off the accellorater it goes, than back as soon as I go again, but if I put my foot down noise goes, at any speed out of gear free rolling no squeeking what's so ever any one have any ideas as to what this mite be your help is appreciated

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I took it to the garage to have the ujs checked he told me they were fine bit I don't think this is the case as they clunk when taking up drive either that or the rear a frame ball joint is the culprit for the clunk but you can hear it from the front every now and then

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