Popular Post Alberta Big Horn Posted April 10, 2016 Popular Post Share Posted April 10, 2016 Hi guys I am new to this forum and was hoping somebody can help me. My 2.25 diesel is not Goni g into glow mode anymore when I turn key 3/4 turn. No click in module. So my questions - is there a fuse for that function I can't find it - what could be the issue Any help would be appreciated so I know where to start to look.. 14 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arjan Posted April 10, 2016 Share Posted April 10, 2016 Tricky question without seiing the vehicle as Series get "improved" a lot... No clicks as the glowplugs go directly over the ignition key. You have loads of options, assuming it is a Series III : - Fuses are located under the steering column (glass type ones) - Is there any volts on the resistor on the bulkhead - Are the glowplugs original, these are wired in Series (1 dead means other 3 stop working) - etc. Good hunting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alberta Big Horn Posted April 11, 2016 Author Share Posted April 11, 2016 Thanks old Hand It's a 1978 series 3 Dutch Lwt So I checked for the fuses were you said but there are no fuses there. Maybe lwt' are different. One of the original glow plugs was burned out so ordered more. However I don't even get the ignition to initiate the relay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 There was no relay on the genuine SIII diesel heater plug wiring, so nothing should be making a click. If someone has retrofit a relay, then the relay, its earth or its command wire from the ignition switch is at fault. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 If it's standard Series it should have a resistor on the bulkhead ( engine side ) wired in series before the plugs . It looks like a coil spring mounted on a U shaped frame , if this is not present and otherwise standard wiring it will cause the heater plugs to overheat and burn out . cheers Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alberta Big Horn Posted April 11, 2016 Author Share Posted April 11, 2016 If it's standard Series it should have a resistor on the bulkhead ( engine side ) wired in series before the plugs . It looks like a coil spring mounted on a U shaped frame , if this is not present and otherwise standard wiring it will cause the heater plugs to overheat and burn out . cheers Steve So you talking about the square box which heats up correct on passenger side in engine bulkhead. So there are no fuses I take better get checking the wire then. Still wondering about the click it made when I got the 3/4 key turn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arjan Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 http://83.81.85.72/schema.html In Dutch I'm afraid. 12 or 24 volts ? More info : http://www.serieblog.org/category/lesen/lightweight/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alberta Big Horn Posted April 12, 2016 Author Share Posted April 12, 2016 It's a 24 volt ffr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 Yep , that's the one , if it's glowing you have a good circuit and heater plugs , as stated earlier a burnt plug should mean open circuit if wired correctly . The function of it is to increase resistance the longer the plugs are on , again to protect them ( 3v iirc as opposed to 12v on later 2.5D / TD / Tdi) cheers Steveb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted April 14, 2016 Share Posted April 14, 2016 Yep , that's the one , if it's glowing you have a good circuit and heater plugs , as stated earlier a burnt plug should mean open circuit if wired correctly . The function of it is to increase resistance the longer the plugs are on , again to protect them ( 3v iirc as opposed to 12v on later 2.5D / TD / Tdi) cheers Steveb No, the function is to drop the voltage as 12 or 24 is too much for the heater plugs, but the resistor is supposed to provide a constant voltage, but it does heat up if over used. It should not take 30 seconds of preheating to start the engine; about 10 is correct. But yes, a single failed plug knocks all of them out on the early 12J and standard 10J types. 12V, and probably 24V, probe types are available from auto electricians. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted April 14, 2016 Share Posted April 14, 2016 ........so you are saying the resistance on a piece of red hot wire in a coil is the same as when cold? The plugs are wired in series and are 3v +3v +3v +3v , the circuit runs through each plug and then to earth . It's much like a battery , each cell is 2v , so 6*2v gives the nominal 12v cheers Steveb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted April 16, 2016 Share Posted April 16, 2016 No I'm not, Steve. But it is a characteristic of the system rather than a design function. Likewise, the resistance in the glow plugs themselves increases as they warm up. But the point of the big resistor on the bulkhead is just to step down the battery voltage. The glow plugs shouldn't be needed for long enough to get that resistor really hot. Most starting issues on LR Diesels are fuel related, typically minor leaks that allow air into the system, which then allows the fuel to drain back to the tank. The system then needs purging on start up. My Tdis and my 12J never needed glow plugs, even in sub zero conditions, they'd start instantly first time every time from cold except when the leak off pipes between the injectors leaked. If you have starting issues, take a good look at the fuel system for tiny leaks. They're hard to find as they tend to let air in when static, but not let fuel out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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