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2.25 diesel issue with glowing


Alberta Big Horn
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Tricky question without seiing the vehicle as Series get "improved" a lot...

No clicks as the glowplugs go directly over the ignition key.

You have loads of options, assuming it is a Series III :

- Fuses are located under the steering column (glass type ones)

- Is there any volts on the resistor on the bulkhead

- Are the glowplugs original, these are wired in Series (1 dead means other 3 stop working)

- etc.

Good hunting

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There was no relay on the genuine SIII diesel heater plug wiring, so nothing should be making a click. If someone has retrofit a relay, then the relay, its earth or its command wire from the ignition switch is at fault.

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If it's standard Series it should have a resistor on the bulkhead ( engine side ) wired in series before the plugs . It looks like a coil spring mounted on a U shaped frame , if this is not present and otherwise standard wiring it will cause the heater plugs to overheat and burn out .

cheers

Steve

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If it's standard Series it should have a resistor on the bulkhead ( engine side ) wired in series before the plugs . It looks like a coil spring mounted on a U shaped frame , if this is not present and otherwise standard wiring it will cause the heater plugs to overheat and burn out .

cheers

Steve

So you talking about the square box which heats up correct on passenger side in engine bulkhead. So there are no fuses I take better get checking the wire then.

Still wondering about the click it made when I got the 3/4 key turn.

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Yep , that's the one , if it's glowing you have a good circuit and heater plugs , as stated earlier a burnt plug should mean open circuit if wired correctly . The function of it is to increase resistance the longer the plugs are on , again to protect them ( 3v iirc as opposed to 12v on later 2.5D / TD / Tdi)

cheers

Steveb

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Yep , that's the one , if it's glowing you have a good circuit and heater plugs , as stated earlier a burnt plug should mean open circuit if wired correctly . The function of it is to increase resistance the longer the plugs are on , again to protect them ( 3v iirc as opposed to 12v on later 2.5D / TD / Tdi)

cheers

Steveb

No, the function is to drop the voltage as 12 or 24 is too much for the heater plugs, but the resistor is supposed to provide a constant voltage, but it does heat up if over used. It should not take 30 seconds of preheating to start the engine; about 10 is correct. But yes, a single failed plug knocks all of them out on the early 12J and standard 10J types. 12V, and probably 24V, probe types are available from auto electricians.

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........so you are saying the resistance on a piece of red hot wire in a coil is the same as when cold?

The plugs are wired in series and are 3v +3v +3v +3v , the circuit runs through each plug and then to earth . It's much like a battery , each cell is 2v , so 6*2v gives the nominal 12v

cheers

Steveb

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No I'm not, Steve. But it is a characteristic of the system rather than a design function. Likewise, the resistance in the glow plugs themselves increases as they warm up. But the point of the big resistor on the bulkhead is just to step down the battery voltage. The glow plugs shouldn't be needed for long enough to get that resistor really hot.

Most starting issues on LR Diesels are fuel related, typically minor leaks that allow air into the system, which then allows the fuel to drain back to the tank. The system then needs purging on start up. My Tdis and my 12J never needed glow plugs, even in sub zero conditions, they'd start instantly first time every time from cold except when the leak off pipes between the injectors leaked. If you have starting issues, take a good look at the fuel system for tiny leaks. They're hard to find as they tend to let air in when static, but not let fuel out.

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