nidge Posted April 30, 2016 Share Posted April 30, 2016 I'm in the process of a complete chassis change and while access is good I decided to change the clutch and rear crank seal, its 300tdi Defender. Is there a need to change the flywheel as well ?? To me it doesn't look in great shape picture below - Tks Nigel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted April 30, 2016 Share Posted April 30, 2016 That looks fine, but coarse wet and dry paper on a block would be good for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 30, 2016 Share Posted April 30, 2016 should polish up quite well as suggested by Snagger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcan bomber Posted April 30, 2016 Share Posted April 30, 2016 As above, noting wrong with that. If your bothered and can get the pins out and your local I could skim the face for you... Nothing a flat block and some 320 grit wouldn't soon sort however. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nidge Posted April 30, 2016 Author Share Posted April 30, 2016 Great Thanks a lot Lads....Always best to check with the experts N. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oneandtwo Posted May 1, 2016 Share Posted May 1, 2016 As above, noting wrong with that. Really? What about all the radial cracks visible on the clutch surface? I would be skimming it while it's out if it were me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted May 1, 2016 Share Posted May 1, 2016 Those look like heat marbling to me, a visible patina, not cracks. I had the same on several flywheels with no cracks or uneven surface. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted May 1, 2016 Share Posted May 1, 2016 I'd get it skimmed. Patches on the contact area look like the results of clutch judder. Round here I can get a flywheel skimmed along with removal of the pegs for £30, so along with the cost of new flywheel bolts it's no big deal and well worth the peace of mind. Les Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orgasmic Farmer Posted May 1, 2016 Share Posted May 1, 2016 I just replaced mine on the trayback after wearing the plate down to just below the minimum Luckily I managed to pick up a good flywheel with an almost new clutch kit for next to nowt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Posted May 1, 2016 Share Posted May 1, 2016 Good effort!! ^^^^^ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcan bomber Posted May 1, 2016 Share Posted May 1, 2016 Certainly got your monies worth out of that!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted May 2, 2016 Share Posted May 2, 2016 OK, OF, that close up does show cracks. New flywheel needed... Living up tot he farmer reputation there! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nidge Posted May 2, 2016 Author Share Posted May 2, 2016 Thank you all for the advice, the cracks are only on the surface and disappeared after sanding, there are however 2 grooves in the wheel so needs either a skim or new flywheel. While I have the attention of the knowledgeable folk, whats your opinion on the seal to the rear crank seal plate in the picture, its looks to be welded on and will be a bugger to remove and will I do more damage removing it or leave as is and use gasket sealer on the new seal plate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcan bomber Posted May 2, 2016 Share Posted May 2, 2016 Patiently and carefully scrape it off. The outer housing comes off without needing a Gasket to refit it. That will improve access no end. Fit your new gasket and seal with a smear of grease. Makes life easy next time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted May 4, 2016 Share Posted May 4, 2016 Small round headed hammer/pin hammer can help... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted May 4, 2016 Share Posted May 4, 2016 Removing the flywheel housing will make it much easier to clean properly - that is the rear main bearing in there so clean is the word . Use the bolts to pull the seal assy over the seal expander evenly when fitting . The flywheel should skim ok at a decent engineering shop cheers Steveb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nidge Posted May 4, 2016 Author Share Posted May 4, 2016 Seal came off without much effort in the end, using an sharp inverted paring chisel. All changed now using genuine gasket and seal, cut the heads off 3 long m8 bolts to guide the seal into place, looks to be on right.... Fingers crossed it won't leak Found an engineering shop to skim the flywheel for €55, it's worth doing at that price and will have it back by the weekend. Tks again for the input N. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted May 4, 2016 Share Posted May 4, 2016 Does it have a strengthened release arm ? Definitely worth doing before you build it all up cheers Steveb 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nidge Posted May 17, 2016 Author Share Posted May 17, 2016 Clutch change worked out well in the end all back together now I did however break the little plastic clip on the clutch fork. It was early on Sunday morning with suppliers all closed and my gearbox ready to be mated back to the engine, so I had to get creative... Here is what I came up with, used the light spring metal plate that comes with a new horn !! hopefully it works Ok Thanks again for all the help and advice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qwakers Posted May 17, 2016 Share Posted May 17, 2016 thatll probably work better than the original Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orgasmic Farmer Posted May 17, 2016 Share Posted May 17, 2016 I bought a new one for the job.... that promptly snapped as it was being inserted. So I just cable tied it into position. So long as the system doesn't lose pressure it can't actually come out once it is all in there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted May 17, 2016 Share Posted May 17, 2016 That's a neat solution Nidge , bush mechanic's gold star there cheers Steveb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted May 17, 2016 Share Posted May 17, 2016 Clutch change worked out well in the end all back together now I did however break the little plastic clip on the clutch fork. It was early on Sunday morning with suppliers all closed and my gearbox ready to be mated back to the engine, so I had to get creative... Here is what I came up with, used the light spring metal plate that comes with a new horn !! hopefully it works Ok Thanks again for all the help and advice IMG_3969.jpgIMG_3970.jpg My clip has been tywrapped in place for years, not fallen out yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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