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Series 2a gearbox problem


tonydrover

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Got the box in even more bits now.

Looks like 1st/2nd synchroniser is goosed plus the springs and balls all vanished once I took it apart. Figured I'd buy a new one but can't seem to find out which is the correct one. Begining to think it has a series 3 gearbox fitted, partly because it has a 1st/2nd synchro and that isn't supposed to be until series 3, plus I have never had to double clutch it to change gear.

The gearbox has this number on it 25174812C. Does that mean it's a suffix C gearbox?

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The last SIIAs had SIII boxes anyway (Suffix A, of course). It's a stronger box than the SII - the lay shaft is single piece with radiused blends to the gear wheels, preventing the stress concentrations of the sharp changes in section of the SII shaft where splines or clip groves were cut. For that sake, the ease of driving and the retention of the existing clutch hydraulics and brackets, I'd recommend you fit another SIII unit or refurbish what you have.

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Yep, its definitely a series 3 box. I have also found a receipt in the extensive paperwork file I got with it for a gearbox/transfer box removal with the innards replaced and all refitted in 2011, which explains why most of it looks fairly new (for a 52 year old car).

Some parts were worn (the front plastic bearing obviously), and have now been replaced. Just waiting for a gasket kit to turn up from Paddocks then I can continue the rebuild.

I have tried various ways to upload all my photos but nothing is working.They are all on my facebook page though, so maybe if we could link to that somehow??

Search Tony Stobart if you are interested in the pics.

I would love to put them on here somewhere for someone else's reference when they come to rebuild theirs.

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You man when finishing up, or when fitting the input pinion in the bell housing?

If the former, then any hang up is likely to be the lay shaft rear bearing sitting outside of its race. It's very fiddly to ensure the bearing is seated properly, but you should get smooth rotation when it is.

Do this job with the gear box vertical. Rotate the lay shaft until you are certain the bearing is in. Then assemble the front end parts - bell housing and pinion, lay shaft drive gear and spacer, with one finger through the layshaft bearing hooking the spacer and gear in place, and lower onto the gear box shafts. A second pair of hands helps a lot with alignment and guidance.

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You man when finishing up, or when fitting the input pinion in the bell housing?

If the former, then any hang up is likely to be the lay shaft rear bearing sitting outside of its race. It's very fiddly to ensure the bearing is seated properly, but you should get smooth rotation when it is.

Do this job with the gear box vertical. Rotate the lay shaft until you are certain the bearing is in. Then assemble the front end parts - bell housing and pinion, lay shaft drive gear and spacer, with one finger through the layshaft bearing hooking the spacer and gear in place, and lower onto the gear box shafts. A second pair of hands helps a lot with alignment and guidance.

Tried all that......it didn't work.

Sussed it in the end........I removed the reverse idler gear and put it in the casing on it's side, fitted the casing then flipped the reverse gear into it's correct position. Put the reverser shaft back in..........and Robert is ya mothers brother.

Just discovered that the rear mainshaft castle-ated nut is goosed though, so job is on a stall until that turns up.

I suppose I could fit the main box back to the car and wait for the bolt, but it wouldn't really make that much difference.

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My solution to assembling the 1st/2nd synchro. Manual says hold springs in by hand........tried that, ended up pinging all over.

So........ 1 tywrap and 1 plastic bag.

http://s923.photobucket.com/user/suetonbrad/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160608_134813_zpsphjvxwc7.jpg.html?filters[user]=138390622&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=108

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  • 2 weeks later...

It's all back together now and road tested (by I have missed driving that V8).

Had some problems with the clutch, mostly sorted now. I think it has something to do with the V8 in it. There is a matching plate between the engine and the clutch bellhousing. When I took it all apart the clutch slave cylinder rod needed replacing, so I ordered one and changed it. When I put it back together clutch wouldn't disengage. Looked at the rod, and compared to the old one it's about 1-2" shorter. Straightened the old one and put it back in and clutch worked. Why would it need to be longer? Is it because of the adaptor plate, and the V8?

I need a new one, cos it's obviously weekened now, but I can't find a part number. The old one does look like simply a length of threaded bar with 2 nuts on, perhaps that is what I need to do. Unless anyone knows of a good part number.

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If you heat the rod to straighten it, it will also anneal it to relieve stresses that may want to bend it again. Then heat it red hot again and throw it in a bucket of cold water or oil to quench it - that'll make it hard so that it won't bend.

As for why it isn't standard length, it'll be because the difference in level between the slave cylinder mounting point and the flywheel will be different from the 4-pot.

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