Jump to content

Stub axles > October 1980


Recommended Posts


I'm rebuilding my 88 axles. I need new stub axles, the old are to much pitted to reuse.

Now that the whole thing is taken apart, i would like to take the chance to convert to > October 1980 axles.

This means that i need:

2* front stub axles FRC3925 at +/- 250 GBP

2* rear stub axles FRC3924 at +/- 35 GPB

This is an enormous price difference. So much so that i consider converting rear stub axles to front ones.

Differences between front and rear stub axles that i know of:

1- The rear hubs are wet (axle oil is able to travel freely from the casing to the wheel bearings), the front has an oil seal inside of the stub axle.

2- The rear stub axle mount over the axle casing. The front mount against and in the swivel pin housing. There is a "ring" to the stub axle that fits inside.

So basically to convert a rear stub axle to a front:

-remove the lip on the rear stub axle.

-machine and attach a ring which fit inside the swivel pin housing

-create room for the oil seal on a lathe (or run wet hubs).

Is this correct?

Has anyone done this before?



  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Why not machine the seal face on your original ones and shrink rings on to get back to original size and a new seal land?

The flange on the front stubaxle is somewhat thicker than the rear iirc



Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello Steve,

I didn't mention the reasons for switching to > 1980 axles (ends).

-Uniform bearing size (only one size). Easier to carry spares.

-Better oil seals.

-Oil catchers.

-Thicker stub axle tube.

I have just measured the flanges on my old pre 1980 stub axles.

Rear stub axle flange: 10 mm.

Front stub axle flange: 8 mm.

The stub axle tube are the same length.

Does anyone know the flange thickness of > 1980 stub axles?

Thanks and regards,


Link to comment
Share on other sites

The front stub axles also have bearings to support the shaft near the UJ. It's not a simple job to machine rear stubs for use at the front. You would also need the later hubs as the bearing sizes are different from your current hubs. The old stub axles have replaceable seal lands, so you just need to replace those collars, but the later stubs do not, and require complete replacement when worn or pitted. £££!

I did this conversion on a rear axle (I already had the parts). In all honesty, it's probably not worth the cost. You can add the oil catcher rings and machine the drain slots and holes in the existing stubs and back plates if you wish (not a bad idea), but the hub and stub upgrade is not really worth the cost just to change to the later spec bearings.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy