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!Help! Range Rover P38 4.6 -- EAS 35MPH Fault -- Video!, B

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Hello, i will keep the details short here..

I currently have a Range Rover P38 4.6 LPG Conversion, I love it and everything is great untill a few days ago, i was on the Autobahn in Germany and all of sudden i notice the warning "Do Not Exceed 35MPH" along with all the flashing lights on the air suspension controller display.

After a minute or so the lights stop flashing and all stay on, I park up and look and the truck is a low as it will go.. Front and Back..

I checked some forums and can confirm that when the bonnet is open and the drivers side door.. the compressor is on (I think) but when i close the door it starts to tick as shown in the video below.

The car is excellent apart from this and very very well maintained before me no other issues to note.

Help really appreciated as i'm starting to look at buying parts!



!! Link for the video above guys !!

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If the pump is running (happens when engine is on, or for a set time door is opened with engine off) and the block is ticking then it is actively trying to push air into the system to inflate/adjust the airbags.

If this isn't rising, then you need to look where air is escaping from (best done with engine off). It could be that your air tank or pipe into it is split. Or it could be a loose pipe to it from the valve block.

Or if you have had 1 air spring fail, the car will try to remain level, so lowers the other 3 springs until on bumpstops.

The 35mph max is limp mode when the P38 EAS goes bad to get you home. You may need to clear this with the free EAS unlock software and a made cable.

check the other info on http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/7-range-rover-mark-ii-p38/4468-info-eas-troubleshooting-tips.html

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Common place for a leak is where the EAS pipes cross the exhaust (near the back axle), it's a bit tucked away, so make sure you check there. The plastic pipes can melt if the exhaust is, our has been, blowing here. The leak sometimes develops some time after the exhaust has been replaced.

Definitely get the EAS unlock software and connector - if the system goes into hard fault it'll let you clear it, it'll also let you see what fault it's reporting at the moment. Like all on board diagnostics what it reports isn't always the root cause, but it's a good place to start.

Do get to the bottom of the problem and fix, don't just keep clearing the fault and carrying on driving. You're likely to end up with your pump running all the time and burning out the seals (if this has already happened you can buy kits to rebuild the pump yourself - it's not hard).

As long as you approach it methodically and don't listen to all the doomsayers and jump to conclusions the EAS is quite straightforward to work on.

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Hi guys first of all thank you for your fast responses to my problem here!

First of all the car is in Germany, I would probably just take it to my mechanic in Devon for a check over had I been in England!

Secondly I'm going to order the cable to reset my faults on the EAS, so i probably wont have an update until Monday when I've connected everything up....

Third, I did look for the pipes for the air suspension at the rear of the car this morning... I couldn't find anything obvious as the suspension is so low i cant see to great! I will endeavour to do some research into there exact location and have another look this evening.

I'm willing to take on rebuilding the pump myself with the kit if its necessary and i wont be driving far until i get to the root of the problem.

One question... When i clear the faults on the EAS, providing that the pump has not failed... will the suspension work as normal?



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Don't get too carried away with replacing bits! I have an EAS "Kicker" and more recently a Nanocom. My EAS going into this mode occasionally. When I use the kicker, it just resets the fault, when I've interrogated it with the Nanocom it tells me the pump has been running for too long. However, reset the fault and all is well.

So I'd reset it and see what happens. It may just be a temporary glitch.



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If you get hold of the pin out for the EAS controller connector you can operate the entire system without the controller. You can raise the car for access, or even get it back on the road (just level it up every now and then - depending on what the fault is you might not have to do it very often, I ran a classic like this for ages, just went round once a week with a tape measure and leveled it up if necessary).

This system is actually quite simple - it just switches 12V lines. There's a 12V supply on the connector itself, connect that to one of the other pins and the pump will run. It's worth monitoring another pin which is the signal from the tank to say it's up to pressure - just put a meter on it and watch for it going to 12V. If you don't have a meter handy just run the pump for a short while and top up as necessary.

Once you have pressure, you raise and lower each corner by opening two valves at a time - you have a valve that supplies air from the tank, another that vents to the atmosphere, then one for each air bag. So to raise the front right corner you connect 12V to the lines for the inlet and front right valves at the same time. Be aware that it's possible to over inflate the air bags and pop them off their pistons.

I found it worthwhile making up a small spider from solid core wire, with at least three ends (more is useful), all connected together. Carefully insert one end into the 12V supply, then touch the other pins to operate the system. You can insert an end into the pin for an air bag valve and leave it open while you raise and lower it by touching the inlet and vent valve pins.

I'm afraid I don't have the connector pin out to hand - might be in the tech archive? If you have a workshop manual it'll be in there.

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I have a set of 4 push on schrader valves that I keep in the glove box. eBay !

You just put them straight on to the airlines that go directly to the bags. There really good for helping track down air leaks and invaluable as a get yo home bodge.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hi Guys sorry in delays on the update!

I have a rather large update today and am seeking some help! The cable i ordered took three and a half weeks to arrive so sorry again for the delays.

I have cleared the EAS but more problems have developed since then and I am lead to believe that it is the battery or the Alternator.

The car will start once or maybe twice before it just wont start anymore, also when i am using electrical components in the car these have caused the car engine to just stop (Fog lights and LPG switch) almost instantly.

The EAS will work intermittently, what I mean is I can select a height but sometimes it will keep flashing and sometime wit will take me to the selected height (slowly)

I had an array of other, what i can guess are electrical faults after clearing the EAS, I was told i had a gearbox failure and the car would not switch up gears while in DRIVE. that is not a problem anymore after leaving the car for a day.

The suspension is also even at all for corners and just yesterday the performance of the car at an inside car park where i have the Range Rover now was just as it should be, suspension good, gears good but this was while running to additional electrical components.

I have done tests with a multimeter and have reading as follows : Car off 12.62; Ignition On 12.08; Engine on 14.6.

There is also a strange click or clock coming from the alternator where i believe the problem is but i cant be sure.

All videos as follows and thanks for any and all help guys! Any more info needed I will be here and the forum will be open!

Thanks again















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Ok I posted on here almost 48hrs ago and it still has not shown up despite emailing the forum so i will write the whole post again as follows.

I apologies for taking a while with a follow up post, i was waiting over 3 weeks for my EAS cable to arrive and when it did finally come the wrong cable was distributed to me.

I have cleared the EAS and now intermittently the EAS system will work and raise my suspension through all the levels again, but this does not come without more faults.


So i will have the engine running and everything seems good but eventually, normally within 15-20 minutes the car will cut off whilst the engine is running and will struggle to start again.

Alongside this problem i have suffered some other strange electronic malfunctions which do not seem to be actually problem, more like a computer issue or a power issue.. or both!!

I have an array of videos on my youtube which i have added to this post (for the sake of the post i will add only 1 video to the post and the rest can be viewed directly from my youtube)

I have demonstrated in these videos battery readings before, during ignition and when the car engine is on, i have also turned on lights, heating, radio and continued the tests.

My multimeter reading are as follows: Ignition off- 12.62 --- Ignition on- 12.08 --- Engine on- 14.6---

Here is a video of me running multiple tests on the battery and alternator after the car had initially cut off.

I had also been back to my car the following day and collected for readings, when my engine was on the multimeter read as low as 13.6 and as high as 13.9. I will go back today and do another check as soon as the car engine is turned on.

There are about 8 videos on my Youtube worth looking at but one in particular is a noise like a click or a clock coming from the Alternator normally after the car has cut out on me once or twice.. this noise then appears but is gone the next day when i come back.

Also I would like to note that the car had previously cut out on me almost instantly when switching over to LPG or turning on the Fog lights, although this hasn't happen again it was worth noting.

So my problems are as follows.

1) Car is dying when engine is engaged

2) displaying occasional faults (potentially due to battery) Suspension intermittent but working

3) Alternator Click or Clock?

4)Frozen pipe as seen on my youtube


Thanks for all your help guys! Hoping this gets posted quickly as i'm desperate for help!


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Quick update!

Ive just got back from the car.. I have cleaned the terminals and connectors for the battery and the problem is still as before.

New issues are on my dash.... warning messages about my windows being out of line or something like that.

Car eventually died on me.. i was bringing the revs high to around 4000rpm for roughly 10 seconds at a time.. The first time i let my foot off and the revs got low again the car skipped like it died and came back to life instantly. I tried again around 30 seconds after that and when the revs came back down the car died and wouldn't restart :(

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Is it dry ish round the becm area (under rhs front seat). repeat voltage tests here and have a look around the terminals going into the becm. With that many issues it could be an earth/supply problem. Thinking when you load up the fog lights it's cutting out for example.

The other area I looked at was the main fusebox (engine compartment) underside pcb traces which could have a dry joint i.e for relay or fuses feeding sub computers or items of interest.

There is more info on this over at Rangerovers.net.



Particulary C623 (Ground)

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New issues are on my dash.... warning messages about my windows being out of line or something like that.

The warnings 'Windows not set' (and if fitted, 'Sunroof not set') are standard after the battery has been disconnected, as you have done while cleaning the battery connections.

When you want to clear them, ensure the windows are fully closed, then press and hold the window down button until the window stalls fully open. Then press and hold the window up button until the window stalls fully closed. You will now have back the short touch facility to either fully open or fully close the window.


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