Anglo-Frenchman 1 Posted June 5, 2016 Share Posted June 5, 2016 Hi. I'm midway through replacing my alternator (2002 Td5) but can someone please explain how to remove the black plastic plug from the rear? I've tried squeezing it, prying it but it won't budge and I don't want to break it. Thanks. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Igol 1 Posted June 5, 2016 Share Posted June 5, 2016 If you mean the one thats got the small wire that leads to the rev counter it should just pull off. Try wd40 and a gentle wiggle with some needle nosed pliers. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Anglo-Frenchman 1 Posted June 5, 2016 Author Share Posted June 5, 2016 The black plastic one with two wires in the attached photo. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dave88sw 39 Posted June 5, 2016 Share Posted June 5, 2016 In your photo you can see the tab you need to squeeze on the top right of the picture. It is often very stiff from all the years of oil baking on the plastic, often you need to push the plug in towards the alternator, squeeze the tab making sure it lifts all the way and then pull back on it, it will be on there very tight if it's anything like the ones ive done in the past Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Anglo-Frenchman 1 Posted June 5, 2016 Author Share Posted June 5, 2016 Thanks Dave. So you're saying you squeeze it in, not pry it outwards? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dave88sw 39 Posted June 5, 2016 Share Posted June 5, 2016 You squeeze the back of the tab which should lift and unhook the front. Pushing the connector in first takes the tension off the tab making it easier to squeeze. Then it should just pull off. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Anglo-Frenchman 1 Posted June 5, 2016 Author Share Posted June 5, 2016 Thanks very much Dave. Got it off at last with the aid of WD40 and levering it off with pliers. Next issue. How the hell does the alternator come out? It's too big to fit between the engine and the radiator. I read somewhere that it's 'a bit tight'. Understatement of the year. Does the facial or have to come out as well? Why the blazes can't they give you an extra 10mm! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dave88sw 39 Posted June 7, 2016 Share Posted June 7, 2016 It is a bit of a pig isn't it. I've managed to work it out by removing the fan and the intercooler to inlet manifold pipe, then the radiator cowling has to come off. It is definitely a tight fit though. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Anglo-Frenchman 1 Posted June 8, 2016 Author Share Posted June 8, 2016 Job done but yes, a total pig. For anyone doing this anytime soon, here is my definitive 'how to guide': Before you start, protect the inside of the radiator with cardboard. 1. Disconnect battery 2. Remove fan cowl (4 screws) 3. Remove plastic/acoustic engine cover. 4. Remove fan (36mm spanner or I used mole grips and tap left with a hammer). 5. Remove auxiliary belt tensioner (15mm socket) 6. Remove tensioner (14mm socket). 7. Unbolt inter-cooler and move out of the way. 8. Disconnect 3 pipes from vacuum pump. This is a fiddle. 9. Disconnect main cable from alternator. This can be done with an extension bar through the manifold. 10. Unbolt top alternator bracket. 10mm socket. 11. Unbolt bottom alternator fixing. Inexplicably a T50 Torx bolt. Why? God only knows. 12. Pull alternator forward and upwards. With the inter-cooler removed it's a LOT easier. 13. Disconnect the plastic plug at the rear. This was an utter tw*t on my unit but good forum advice and WD40 saved the day. 14. Unbolt vacuum pump from old alternator, swap onto new unit and refit in reverse order. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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