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Rover V8 help.


Scooby Jim

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Yeah, I'd expect the higher compression to be higher... but it depends on wear too...

Not read the whole post (sorry)... late to the party...

Tell me something, with the distributor cap off, can you move the distributor rotor back and forth with very little effort?

It should rotate just not easily as it is sprung, with counter weights.

Where are you roughly (on phone, can't see your location)

Rob

Swansea.

The rotor arm isnt too easy to move.

Compression will be lack of power not right running (unless the compression is really low on one or two etc). It's a spark of fuel thing imho

Yeah but from experience if the h/g valve issues it can feel like amiss as your down on one cylinder, and possibly backfiring through valve so making it feel like a miss, without it being a miss.

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Are you using k&n type air filter cones?

In my opinion they are carp with su type carbs.... because of the way su carbs work (I tried them on mine, with the "right" needles (still got them), and the power was nowhere near the STD 90 v8 can filter box, because of the vacuum lift available to the carb which gives you the range of needle movement...

I've had a wideband o2 on mine to tune them and was very surprised how well the standard needles matched the engine for stochometric tune plus power (14.7:1 cruise and up to ~ 12.9 under WOT.... memory of numbers may be out a little mine is a v long term project....)

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What's the timing chain like?

Chains do stretch and can lead to rough running.

Sorry Swansea a bit far for me or I'd had popped round.

Rob

Way I'm feeling I may see if I can fit it on the back on my artic trailer and drop her off somewhere, and pick her backup ready to rock and roll.

But the majority has been done, just this, and I wish I had done it when I didn't have the front end done lol.

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I know how that feels.... I wish mine was on the road, it's finding someone to economy join all the bits together in my case...

when using the timing light, is the spark consistent / regular at all rpms?

Have you run it at night, without lights on in the workshop checking for any ht spark tracking? (Sometimes shows up at night)

With the distributor cap off, turning the engine clockwise, and then stopping and going anticlockwise how much movement is required to reverse the distributor direction... this will show the timing chain stretch / acceleration and deceleration timing backlash.... it'd an indication not an accurate reading, to check a chain for wear bend it at 90 deg to its normal curve (sorry difficult to explain).

If you decide to take the timing cover off (will require dropping the water and poss oil....), I'd check the timing marks and that someone has not installed a set of adjustable timing sprockets.... unlikely but possible....)

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