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200 di in a series to tdi intercooler


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Happy as I was with the DI 200 conversion for pootling about I found that with 2.5 tonne on the (0.75 tonne) trailer it was inadequate.

So I decided to strap a turbo on to it, hopefully it will be a bit less anti social up steep hills when laden. As towing up big hills in the summer is hard enough on engines I figured that an intercooler would be a good idea, and bigger should be better, with heat soak and all that. Looking at the ebay offerings it looked like an uprated intercooler from a VW Fabia Seat sporty eurobox thing should fit.

That arrived yesterday, blooming solid heavy square intercooler made in China, but looking like it should last.

Oh, and I also got a recon performance head from turners, just because.

First things first - oil cooler, and intercooler.

I've had an oil cooler on the 109 for a bit, but it was in the way of the massive Intercooler I bought, so I've been messing about with the front panel a little bit. The intercooler fits just below the latch, just in front of the series radiator, just behind the oil cooler and with just enough space for reducing elbows to pipe the charge to the intake manifold.

I hope.

The chassis will probably need adjusting as the front crossmember is unisex, and has the fittings for a proper relay and a foreign relay.

Enough blather, pictures:

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I need to revisit both mine and sort out intercooler and radiator mounts. Going to take the 200 rad out of The 109 and revert to Series rad.

There is oodles of space in front of the series rad. If the steering relay wasn't there, and the battery was in the seatbox, then you can squeeze a lot in.

This work is going to be crude; I've to be mobile by next Friday, as I am headed to Ireland to move another load from my workshop over there. It'll be hard going.

I have a fear that the intercooler hosiery I've ordered will be inadequate, and I'm not sure how to do the air filter yet.

Cable ties and duct tape may be involved.

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I once made a nice frame for 200tdi rad and intercooler that houses them both, slightly staggered, into an early 2a. It required no cutting or drilling of any bodywork / wings or rad panel, picked up on all the original fixings for the series rad and even allowed the radiator to be changed by lifting put the top like on a tdi defender.

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There is oodles of space in front of the series rad. If the steering relay wasn't there, and the battery was in the seatbox, then you can squeeze a lot in.

This work is going to be crude; I've to be mobile by next Friday, as I am headed to Ireland to move another load from my workshop over there. It'll be hard going.

I have a fear that the intercooler hosiery I've ordered will be inadequate, and I'm not sure how to do the air filter yet.

Cable ties and duct tape may be involved.

Yeah my 88's got loads of space, unmolested front panel, Series rad, no intercooler as yet though, that's a job for another day. The 109 has a Defender PAS box. Big mistake, and caused me no end of problems when the box needed replacing a few weeks ago, fighting for space with the radiator. Plus the expansion tank was getting in the way all the while

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The guys selling the intercooler stuff were very good - they didn't have two of the clamps I need, so have sent two jubilee clips instead, and will send the proper when in. And they phoned up to tell me, and see if it was okay! And sent the lot so it arrived 36 hours after the order. Very good. Unlike some others I could mention.

G.

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You'll be astonished by the transformation. Just be sympathetic to the gearbox - feed the throttle in rather than just booting it; only fourth can take a clumsy right foot in the long term. As long as you ease the clutch and throttle in easily, though, the other gears will cope fine. But Series transmission with the low diffs make a Series pull extremely well with a Tdi, far better than a Defender. You just run out of gears, even with an overdrive.

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Yes, this won't be a racer, I just need a little more grunt for the steep hills.

Now, with that in mind, how do I set up the fuel pump and the valve thing on these turbo jobs? I've hooked the boost pipe to the fuel pump, need I do more? Had to make a banjo bolt as I couldn't find one. I've also set up the fuel pump smoke screw to a low smoke setting, should I wind this back out (or in)?

And the valve thing connected to the little gate on the turbo housing, how long should the connecting rod be? Again, I want reliability with a few more horse power, not a fire breathing racer.

And finally, I hope, where do people put the air filter with these conversions? Over the fuel pump? I've a disco tdi 200 airbox, a defender turbo and manifolds and a disco timing chest.

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Nick,

The steve parker exhaust came with a right angle bracket for the down pipe, but I can't figure where it goes. DO you recall fitting yours?

G.

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The connecting rod should be set up so the lever moves at just under 14psi above atmospheric. Make sure the lever is free to move, as they have a nasty habit of seizing. You've done all you need for the fueling with the turbo, and will probably get away with moving the smoke screw back. Experiment, see how it feels and how much it smokes.

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As said, make sure the waste gate actuator is free to move, as they can seize. Seized shut, this will result in an overboost. As far as adjustment goes, if the yellow factory paint is on the lock nut, leave well alone. If not, a local tuning specialist should have calibration equipment and it's simple to set.

Apart from connecting the boost pipe from turbo to pump and readjusting the fuelling, there is nothing to be done on those parts. I think the screw is wound in to increase fuelling, so just try 45degrees at a time until you get light smoke under full acceleration. If you call Bob at Dieselbob Tuning, he'll advise better on how to do it - he did my pumps and was generous with advice.

The L-bracket and U-clamp for the exhaust use a single bolt into the side of the block roughly half way along and a couple of inches above the joint with the ladder frame. If I remember correctly, the U-bolt ends were forwards, but you won't be able to fit it the wrong way around. The U-bolt is fitted horizontally.. I'll look for photos.

Edit: look at the second last photo in this link http://www.nickslandrover.co.uk/not-a-lazy-sunday/ and look for the bolt hole between the starter motor and engine mount in the reinforcing webs, and the second photo of this http://www.nickslandrover.co.uk/engine-oil-leak-remedy/ in the shadows behind the engine mount, showing the bracket and U-bolt nuts.

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Nick,

Thanks for that, very, very helpful.

Had a good day today, after I got back from Castle Coombe with the eldest son (under 17 car club "magic" day - 6 Aston Martins, a Dodge Challenger and two Gran Tourinos, amongst others).

The inter-cooler mount fouled the steering relay, so had to be modified, but in a stroke of measuring genius (pure luck) the inter-cooler slotted between the LHD relay mount brackets, so no chassis cutting.

Inter-cooler in, pipe work in, oil cooler in, all coming together. I'm still under pressure, but should be okay.

Air filters are my current bugbear, I am going to go for a clamp-on bling K&N type, but I am unsure how to deal with the crank case cyclone breather hose.

Is there a way of connecting this pipe to a k&N Filter, I wonder?

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Mines on top of the timing case, bolted to the aircon pump mounts

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Some great ideas there - when I get this trip out of the way I'll make up something smarter than the K&N plan for this week, and I think it may be time for a snorkel!!

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http://www.nickslandrover.co.uk/easy-breathing/ The first photo in this post was while I still had the 12J, the second after the Tdi was installed, but the filter system has stayed unchanged. You see the adaptor pipe between the corrugated hose (from the Defender side intake) to the 19J filter housing intake, and it has a union on the top of the adaptor. In this case, I'd blanked the union with a rubber cap so that the 12J's breather fed directly into the manifold to keep the filter clean, but on the Tdi installation, I routed the breather to that union as, firstly, you cant plumb it into the pressurised manifold, and secondly, I wanted the oil caught before it contaminated the ducts, turbo and intercooler. By using a K&N, I don't have to worry about the filter getting soggy and collapsing - K7Ns need to be moist, and the dirtier they are, the better they filter the air.

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Thanks all,

Nick that photo of the exhaust will help, going to fit it now! I've ordered up some tat bling from ebay to get me going, but I will revisit the airbox soon.

G.

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Okay, as Nick already knows, the intermediate pipe and the down pipe don't mate well. I've adjusted the intermediate pipe with the welder, so hopefully it will all join up better now.

The bracket for the down pipe is close, I needed to take a tiny chunk out of the web to make it fit nice, and shorten it, so that it doesn't foul the chassis rail.

All going well so far!!

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He buggered the rear joint angle on your down pipe too, then? He did that on both my 12J and Tdi pipes. His workmanships is nowhere near as bad as the company's service, though. Expect to be shouted and sworn at and called a liar if you call them with a complaint.

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Well, I got it to start this evening. All looks okay. The exhaust is knocking in a few places, so more adjustments may be needed, big tyre bar and a hammer, I think.

I've a few things to sort tomorrow, after work, like the air filter and the fuel breather hose, but I think I'm okay for a test run on Thursday. There are a few decent hills here abouts, and it will be interesting seeing what happens. I want to get it good and hot, play with the smoke screen, check it for leaks and then change the oil and fuel filter. Looking good for Friday.

Thanks all.

G.

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Here's a couple of questions:

I can hear the turbo on tickover when the engine is cold - but not when warm, is this normal? Just a slight "wheeee" type noise.

Should I see the turbo valve thing move when it's on full rev, but not under load? I'm thinking a pressure gauge of some sort is a good investment. Should I get an exhaust gas temperature gauge? If so, where would I plumb it on the defender manifold?

And, finally, for tonight - I've finally bought a genuine water temperature sender and the needle is nicely on the "N" mark, under full throttle this goes down a bit, that just means the water pump is working, right?

G.

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Answers to your questions in order below

Not sure, I don't think I can hear mine at tickover

No, it won't really do anything without load.

Boost gauges can be had for about a fiver on eBay and are worth having to set it up, once it set they serve little purpose so ca be removed again.

Again, EGT guages can be done fairly cheaply - I used a k-type thermocouple and a hand held thermocouple reader. The cost will be much higher if you go for an actual guage to fit in the dash. Again, once you've set the boost/fuel up then you'll no longer need an egt guage. Fit the thermocouple in the manifold in front of the turbo, personally I wouldn't get too precious about exactly where - just get it somewhere you can fit it easily. Others will tell you that a certain location is best or gives a truer reading, and they may be right if you are race tuning etc, but to my mind we only need an indication of the temp, not to the degree.

Can't help with specifics - my temp guage is the TD5 type and my sender is a ROW spec 300tdi version. But your logic is sound

Hope that's some help :)

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