110 V8 Posted March 7, 2017 Share Posted March 7, 2017 Using "fixed map" sorted the first start of the day issue for me. I ended up with similar settings: Use fixed below 30deg Time period 8secs Fixed map value 50kpa Can start through the window from cold any time. Its a 3.9serp with ms1 and edis Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted March 7, 2017 Share Posted March 7, 2017 Morning - Have removed you from needing post moderation Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted March 7, 2017 Share Posted March 7, 2017 Oh, and yes, I forget more than I remember these days, a fixed MAP for ASE can help loads... just simplifies things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodumatau Posted March 15, 2017 Author Share Posted March 15, 2017 so it seems to be working now at those last settings I screen shotted (screenshat?) ...... hasn't strangled itself now for 3 days on first start...... but..... it has been 1-2 degrees warmer, so difficult to say, but I think we have found the solution. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted March 15, 2017 Share Posted March 15, 2017 Excellent Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodumatau Posted May 5, 2017 Author Share Posted May 5, 2017 (edited) busy planning my first service since installing MS, with the coil ignition do i still use the same spark plug? or is there a better plug for more spark/better ignition? engine is a 3.5 with 9.35:1 compression Edited May 5, 2017 by bodumatau Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted May 5, 2017 Share Posted May 5, 2017 Yup, standard ones are fine, NGK preferred by many for the RV8 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodumatau Posted May 5, 2017 Author Share Posted May 5, 2017 and spark gap, digging through the forum I found a value of 1mm because of the ford coil packs? the standard gap was 0,7/0,8mm? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted May 5, 2017 Share Posted May 5, 2017 I doubt very much it will make much difference to be honest, it's not a race car or turbo's, it's a 1950s engine with poor combustion chamber design 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted May 5, 2017 Share Posted May 5, 2017 EDIS probably won't worry too much about spark gap... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodumatau Posted May 5, 2017 Author Share Posted May 5, 2017 1 hour ago, FridgeFreezer said: EDIS probably won't worry too much about spark gap... perfect then I'll just leave the new ones lying on the fender and hook them up and it should work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoffbeaumont Posted May 6, 2017 Share Posted May 6, 2017 I found EDIS better with a 1mm gap - subjectively anyway. Logically, if EDIS will drive a spark across a bigger gap (which it will, comfortably) then you're better off with that bigger spark. In any case, 1mm is what Ford specify for EDIS equipped engines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodumatau Posted May 8, 2017 Author Share Posted May 8, 2017 I'll be setting them to 2mm and be going a whole lot faster jokes aside, thanks for the feedback guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodumatau Posted July 3, 2020 Author Share Posted July 3, 2020 its broken !!! fuel pump as dead as a doornail which fuel pump is better for the Megasquirt efi? PRC7020 or PRC8318? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted July 3, 2020 Share Posted July 3, 2020 PRC7020 is a low-pressure pump for carbs so you'd need a 2nd high-pressure pump somewhere after it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodumatau Posted July 3, 2020 Author Share Posted July 3, 2020 so its the PRC8318 then "Fuel pump - high pressure - EFI to GA464553" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted July 4, 2020 Share Posted July 4, 2020 Without knowing anything about your vehicle I can't say - if you have the earlier style steel fuel tank mounted in the rear (same as Range Rover / Discovery) then yes that's the pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreePointFive Posted July 4, 2020 Share Posted July 4, 2020 Don't forget you'll need to extend it for the deeper Def tank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted July 4, 2020 Share Posted July 4, 2020 4 hours ago, ThreePointFive said: Don't forget you'll need to extend it for the deeper Def tank. I thought the steel 110 tank was the same part# as RR/Disco? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreePointFive Posted July 5, 2020 Share Posted July 5, 2020 I assumed it was a 90.... No idea why.🤐🤐🤐 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted July 5, 2020 Share Posted July 5, 2020 Have a lookie at my website, the fuel pump we do is an in tank type, with I think 6 x screws holding it in, might be a straight swap, also it can easily be lengthed etc to reach bottom of tank, basically these are classic RR 120 psi units - runs my 5.2 Fine !! well up to sorting fuelling on any Rover V* IMHO, some fuel pumps are stupid money !! nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodumatau Posted July 5, 2020 Author Share Posted July 5, 2020 110 with steel tank On 7/4/2020 at 1:41 PM, FridgeFreezer said: Without knowing anything about your vehicle I can't say - if you have the earlier style steel fuel tank mounted in the rear (same as Range Rover / Discovery) then yes that's the pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodumatau Posted July 10, 2020 Author Share Posted July 10, 2020 (edited) got tired of waiting for parts to be delivered...... dug out my old fuel pump that sounded like a 10 year old lawn mower when it ran..... and it still made noises when I attached it to 12V...... so having an option I decided to take out the defective fuel pump out of the tank and install my old one...... at least to get back on the road. being someone who fiddles I took a closer look at the fuel pump when it was out of the tank and I think I found the problem why the pump stopped working....... this filter was not properly sealing onto the pump, I think I knocked it off while installing the pump or while extending the pipe to get to the bottom of my defender tank then I found something else out.... "fuel pipe" might be fully fuel resistant at its inner core but the outer core might not be, the pipe I had used to extend the pump when installing was delaminating and the outer core was soft and swelled up. once the pump was dried out and had no residual fuel I tested whether the supply wires had continuity, all good, then I tried the pump on 12V and suddenly it worked, it had had something jam it inside because the filter was not on properly. then I took the time to use parts of my old fuel pump to properly extend the support frame to get the fuel pump to the correct length so that I dont run out of fuel with 5ltrs still left in the tank. and finally carefully installed the fuel pump again hoping that I didn't knock off the fuel filter this time around. @Hybrid_From_Hell - Nige my mumble apologies for cussing you via PM that your pump stopped working..... it still WORKS 🤩 hope this helps someone fault finding their fuel pump issues. oh one more thing, when you have the fuel pump out of the tank and busy extending etc.... be careful....the fuel pump has a very strong magnet, so if you put the pump down on a dusty workbench it picks up a handful of iron filings you didn't know you were storing on the workbench and you then spend the next 30 min cleaning them off 🙄 Edited July 10, 2020 by bodumatau Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted July 10, 2020 Share Posted July 10, 2020 This is exactly what happend to @steve200TDi's dad, fuel hose is only fuel-proof on the inside, you need special (expensive) submersion-proof fuel hose if you're extending an in-tank pump! Likewise most sealants are only fuel resistant, Loctite do a special one for sealing things that will be submerged. Guess how I know both of these things 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreePointFive Posted July 10, 2020 Share Posted July 10, 2020 This raises an interesting question.... On the fuel return pipe into the tank, is it best practice to put pipe on it so it drains smoothly to the bottom of the tank or do you just leave it to drip/spray where the metal pipe enters the too of the tank? Either way, I need to go and get a piece of pipe out of my tank because I was not aware they're not submersible, the question is what to replace it with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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