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3.5 efi Flapper to Megasquirt conversion


bodumatau

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Using "fixed map" sorted the first start of the day issue for me. I ended up with similar settings:

Use fixed below 30deg

Time period 8secs

Fixed map value 50kpa

Can start through the window from cold any time. Its a 3.9serp with ms1 and edis 

 

Andy

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so it seems to be working now at those last settings I screen shotted (screenshat?) ...... hasn't strangled itself now for 3 days on first start...... but..... it has been 1-2 degrees warmer, so difficult to say, but I think we have found the solution.

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  • 1 month later...

busy planning my first service since installing MS, with the coil ignition do i still use the same spark plug? or is there a better plug for more spark/better ignition? engine is a 3.5 with 9.35:1 compression

 

 

Edited by bodumatau
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1 hour ago, FridgeFreezer said:

EDIS probably won't worry too much about spark gap...

jolt2.jpg

perfect then I'll just leave the new ones lying on the fender and hook them up and it should work :rofl:

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I found EDIS better with a 1mm gap - subjectively anyway. Logically, if EDIS will drive a spark across a bigger gap (which it will, comfortably) then you're better off with that bigger spark.

In any case, 1mm is what Ford specify for EDIS equipped engines.

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  • 3 years later...

Have a lookie at my website, the fuel pump we do is an in tank type, with I think 6 x screws holding it in, might be a straight swap, also it can easily be lengthed etc to reach bottom of tank, basically these are classic RR 120 psi units - runs my 5.2 Fine !! well up to sorting fuelling on any Rover V* IMHO, some fuel pumps are stupid money !!

nige

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110 with steel tank

On 7/4/2020 at 1:41 PM, FridgeFreezer said:

Without knowing anything about your vehicle I can't say - if you have the earlier style steel fuel tank mounted in the rear (same as Range Rover / Discovery) then yes that's the pump.

 

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got tired of waiting for parts to be delivered...... dug out my old fuel pump that sounded like a 10 year old lawn mower when it ran..... and it still made noises when I attached it to 12V...... so having an option I decided to take out the defective fuel pump out of the tank and install my old one...... at least to get back on the road.

 

being someone who fiddles I took a closer look at the fuel pump when it was out of the tank and I think I found the problem why the pump stopped working.......

this filter was not properly sealing onto the pump, I think I knocked it off while installing the pump or while extending the pipe to get to the bottom of my defender tank

1237248378_LRfuelpumpfilter.thumb.jpeg.1225a5f7442f99421c40f2140eb0b971.jpeg

 

then I found something else out.... "fuel pipe" might be fully fuel resistant at its inner core but the outer core might not be, the pipe I had used to extend the pump when installing was delaminating and the outer core was soft and swelled up.

78553458_LRfuelpipeouter.thumb.jpeg.0f5774240d30ed4b01e672337c839cd4.jpeg796097208_LRfuelpipeinnercore.thumb.jpeg.05a59fff637fcc9c961bc8d09ba46db2.jpeg

 

once the pump was dried out and had no residual fuel I tested whether the supply wires had continuity, all good, then I tried the pump on 12V and suddenly it worked, it had had something jam it inside because the filter was not on properly.

 

then I took the time to use parts of my old fuel pump to properly extend the support frame to get the fuel pump to the correct length so that I dont run out of fuel with 5ltrs still left in the tank.

1173575796_LRdepthextension.thumb.jpeg.ea3457348f125282f2be6f162475e184.jpegand finally carefully installed the fuel pump again hoping that I didn't knock off the fuel filter this time around.

1111518599_LRfuelpump.thumb.jpeg.2746d8e41bb6a45ad05c681929bf9c03.jpeg

 

@Hybrid_From_Hell - Nige my mumble apologies for cussing you via PM that your pump stopped working..... it still WORKS 🤩

 

hope this helps someone fault finding their fuel pump issues.

oh one more thing, when you have the fuel pump out of the tank and busy extending etc.... be careful....the fuel pump has a very strong magnet, so if you put the pump down on a dusty workbench it picks up a handful of iron filings you didn't know you were storing on the workbench and you then spend the next 30 min cleaning them off 🙄

Edited by bodumatau
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This is exactly what happend to @steve200TDi's dad, fuel hose is only fuel-proof on the inside, you need special (expensive) submersion-proof fuel hose if you're extending an in-tank pump!

Likewise most sealants are only fuel resistant, Loctite do a special one for sealing things that will be submerged.

Guess how I know both of these things :lol:

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This raises an interesting question.... On the fuel return pipe into the tank, is it best practice to put pipe on it so it drains smoothly to the bottom of the tank or do you just leave it to drip/spray where the metal pipe enters the too of the tank?

Either way, I need to go and get a piece of pipe out of my tank because I was not aware they're not submersible, the question is what to replace it with.

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