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3.5 efi Flapper to Megasquirt conversion


bodumatau

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hi Bowie, thanks for answering, you can always be relied on for help ;-)

this was my idle settings before I changed back to Nigels original settings:

Screen Shot 2017-02-17 at 14.55.09 PM.png

 

and this is after changing back to Nigels settings:

Screen Shot 2017-02-17 at 14.52.30 PM.png

 

and nothing has changed for the start except it revs a little higher for a few seconds with Nigels settings, then still gets choked down as the PWM closes. try it again immediately after and the PWN does its thing and doesn't choke the motor down.......

 

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Haha FF !! that would be like the schoolboy teaching the teacher a trick!!

 

what my little brain can't figure out is WHAT changes from the first start to the second, ALL the info the MS is getting is still the same as the first start (running for 4-5 seconds from dead cold doesn't change any temps more than 0.1 degrees.)

 

and yet, like clockwork, first time = choke down, second time = perfect textbook start.

 

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a tentative...... very tentative celebration, seem to have fixed the 2 start symptom (maybe only cause it is a few degree warmer today), but now have to wait another few hours till its cold enough to confirm my hopefulness..... let you all know tomorrow.

 

one other question, revving directly after starting, is this directly related to the warmup enrichment? she revs up to 1600-2000 rpm after the start now for 3-4 seconds (which I don't like) and then settles down to the cold rev (set at around 1000), which tells me it must be something else cause the warmup enrichment doesn't change in the few seconds after start.

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and that would be the "Cranking(dc)"?, funny thing is that I had decreased is from 90 to 80 with the implementation of Nigels "base" settings, and it still revved higher on the start. but. I had my "idle valve frequency" at 200 instead of 100..... (alltoomuchformylittlebrain)

 

nevertheless I will try decreasing it by a few numbers and see what it does, thanks for the tip Bowie. :)

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ok, so just been in my chucking filly garage and fiddled a bit.

1. my coolant temp sensor is off by about 10 degrees, another thermometer read 5,6 degrees and coolant sensor said 14 degrees..... how important is it that this is accurate? it seems to come in line with my VDO gauge over 50 degrees and read the correct temp in the engines operating range but at low temps it is out.

2. adjusting the "Cranking(dc)" didn't change the high revs on startup but changing my "idle valve frequency" back to 190 did, I previously had it at 200, now tried to fiddle with it between 100-150-180-190, seemed to get the best results at 190, so now have to wait for the engine to cool down again so I can try again...... hurry up and wait....

3. @FridgeFreezer, today she again didn't choke down after start, I have adjust the lower parameter of my EAV much lower than i had it before, whether these are now the correct settings for where my valve actually opens I have no idea but it seems to be working, I think I had the wrong values in there and because the EAV didn't see values it recognised it just shut down to minimum....? ?? .... hypothesising here with ZERO fabric to prove what I am saying!!!!! but hoping I am onto something....

 

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Sorry didn't realise cranking DC was so high, bring this to 45 and see what happens.

Basically bring it down so you get a reasonable high burst after starting, and you can do this hot, so much easier than other warm-up tuning.

80 will be too high.

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so it appears my rejoicing was premature @Fridge freezer, still chocking down after the first start, but seems now to wait a second or two longer before closing down.

so I still need to find out why it chokes down after a few seconds after startup. I still suspect it is connected to the max/min parameters of the EAV, anyone know how to test them?

I have sorted the start up revving Bowie, used Cranking(dc) 45, now revs up to about 1200 for half a second then settles nicely to my warmup rpm of around 1000.

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@Bowie69, not straight away, it revs, settles, and about 4 seconds in I can hear the EAV choke down and it kills the engine. 

here is the first log with the engine dying after about 4 seconds. 2017-02-22_10.51.08.msl

Screen Shot 2017-02-22 at 14.44.00 PM.png

and here is the restart straight after that settles and idles fine. 2017-02-22_10.51.33.msl

and after 4 seconds on this one (ok 3,87ish seconds) the PW goes into idle mode and regulates the idle perfectly.

Screen Shot 2017-02-22 at 14.46.45 PM.png

Edited by bodumatau
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could it be a fuel pressure problem?

this is the first start this morning, for some reason the fuel pressure reads -6 just after the start, in the first 4 seconds increases to about 4+ and then decreases again to 0 just around the time the engine is dying. 2017-02-23_08.42.40.msl

Screen Shot 2017-02-23 at 13.50.56 PM.png

 

and the start right away after that the fuel pressure comes up quickly and remains at +6/7. 2017-02-23_08.42.53.msl

Screen Shot 2017-02-23 at 13.49.13 PM.png

Edited by bodumatau
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That 37 in your VE table, change to 41, a hole like this in your fuelling can wreak havoc. Around idle you want all the same fuelling, no more than 1 or two different per cell.

Do you have a fuel pressure sender???? :) If not then the figures you suggest are just spurious, and can be ignored.

To be honest with you, I would kill the closed loop idle control, you do NOT need it, and believe it to be complicating things for you, a LOT. It can mask the true problem by trying to fix a bad idle, when actually what you need to do is get it idling properly without any crutches from cold, then in the future, if you feel you need it, go closed loop. I don't tend to do closed loop any more, way too much hassle, and can get a perfectly good smooth idle, which reacts properly to load changes such as fans/AC/auto box engagement without the idle valve doing anything.

So to go back to basics, I would change your closed loop to 'warmup only' and then open your idle valve to 45 DC for cranking as you have above. This simplifies everything.... if you have too many variables going on, you WILL start chasing your tail.

Looking at your graph, the engine is definitely leaning out as it comes down from the surge after starting. Can you post a pic of your ASE table to compare please?

:)

 

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ja sorry Bowie, I have been known to be hard of listening......

ok so I have changed to "warm up only", the idle was a bit high so I fiddled with my upper and lower parameters and settled on 41 and 31 (figured that as it was too high at 25 and only got higher as I went down to 24,23 etc I tried going up and it got better till 31 and then started revving higher again, hope my logic works)

here it is with my ASE 

Screen Shot 2017-02-23 at 15.27.34 PM.png

 

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I'm not sure I agree that it is after start fuelling, it is still dying after first start, and running sweetly immediately on the next start, if it was WUE then it should die again.

if it was ASE it should also die again as the only parameter that has changed is that it has warmed up by 0,5 degrees.

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

so..... tried to add 30% to the ASE, started, DIED, ARRGHH!!!! :im-ok-smiley-emoticon:

58bd3d763d142_ScreenShot2017-03-05at12_14_34PM.png.a8f2326a127aa258cc108a94f9a48280.png

then I moved the enrichment one temperature level up since my coolant gauge reads about 10 degrees to cold at low temperatures.

58bd3d6fcd3f9_ScreenShot2017-03-06at10_26_15AM.png.6b78b2cd38ed56d2a7d27a5b0a700da2.png

also changed the MAP mode during ASE to a constant one and this morning it started perfectly and didn't die!! now I am hoping that it isnt just another lucky strike, will try a few more cold morning starts and hope this solves it.

 

 

 

Screen Shot 2017-03-05 at 12.10.18 PM.png

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