Newbie MS install

[skauldy]

Hi guys,

Finally started my MS install after looking at the box for three years. I've read and read the manual and going through the Megasquirt sub forum reading about others install and also have re read Niges new post and started my install with the steps he's put downbut a few I'm sure stupid things confusing me.

First one so far is the injector loom.

The injectors batch fire left and right. Two wires to each injector. The power feed is supplied from one wire from the relay. So if I wife each injector I will have 16 wires at the back of the plenum how to I get the 8 power wires down to just one. Can I daisy chain them or do I strip one wire and take my feeds off that.

Thanks Shane

[bodumatau]

hi Shane

I was in your shoes 4 days ago, read my post the guys have been super helpful on the forum with questions I have had, interested to read and work with you on our "parallel build"

which engine type are you converting? also a "flapper" like mine, or do you have a hotwire or thor system?

as I understand it your injector loom is going from a total of 16 wires down to 3.

1. one wire is the power feed wire to the Injectors from the Main relay (Brown/Yellow), this joins to all 8 brown yellow wires at the back of the Injector loom

2. second wire is your left Injector batch trigger wire which brings the signal from ECU to fire (by earthing the wire thru the ecu), this is Green/Slate, join 4 to 1 and then back to 2 at the ECU to spread the load through the pins.

3. third wire is the right Injector batch, same asa above, this time Slate/red, 4 wires to 1and then back to 2 at the ecu.

if you go through Nigels post you will find a section about joining several wires together.

3.

[FridgeFreezer]

I wired* in pairs, 2 injectors back to 1 wire, for the ECU wires this gives you 2 wires per bank, one for each pin. Power wires I then joined again to give 1 power wire per bank.

* = I think, I've slept since I wired it so all bets are off.

[Bowie69]

You are better tapping/splicing as you go, so you don't end up with a large bunch of wires at the ECU termination.

Run one long wire to the furthest injector, then splice in a new short wire to the next injector, joint with whatever you like, but I prefer solder followed by glue lined heatshrink. Then do the next injector until you have finished that bank for either the power or ECU connection. Repeat for other wire for that bank, repeat both steps for other bank.

You should now have 4 wires at the back of the engine, you can join the power wires together as you did at the injectors, leaving three, one power, and the two injector banks for the ECU.

This post actually describes the process pretty well, and gives some general info on soldering wires in an automotive environment, see the section on "Tap Soldering":

http://www.doofclenas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=139041

Ignore the bit about using electrical tape, and actually even silver solder (normal 24-guage electronic stuff is fine), get yourself glue lined heatshrink and it will make the joint much more long lasting and protect it from the elements nicely.

You can do the same with crimps, but they in general more bulky than a tidy soldered joint, and no more reliable in my experience (though others will undoubtedly disagree with me on this!).

[skauldy]

Thanks for the replies guys. Have a better idea now and a handle on thing. I'm always over complicating stuff for myself.

hi Shane

I was in your shoes 4 days ago, read my post the guys have been super helpful on the forum with questions I have had, interested to read and work with you on our "parallel build"

which engine type are you converting? also a "flapper" like mine, or do you have a hotwire or thor system?

as I understand it your injector loom is going from a total of 16 wires down to 3.

1. one wire is the power feed wire to the Injectors from the Main relay (Brown/Yellow), this joins to all 8 brown yellow wires at the back of the Injector loom

2. second wire is your left Injector batch trigger wire which brings the signal from ECU to fire (by earthing the wire thru the ecu), this is Green/Slate, join 4 to 1 and then back to 2 at the ECU to spread the load through the pins.

3. third wire is the right Injector batch, same asa above, this time Slate/red, 4 wires to 1and then back to 2 at the ecu.

if you go through Nigels post you will find a section about joining several wires together.

3.

Hi Bob

Great to have someone in the same boat. I'll have a read through your post. Nigel's post is that the detailed description one or is there another.

I have fitted Gems 4.6 parts to a 4.2 block

I wired* in pairs, 2 injectors back to 1 wire, for the ECU wires this gives you 2 wires per bank, one for each pin. Power wires I then joined again to give 1 power wire per bank.

* = I think, I've slept since I wired it so all bets are off.

Hi fridge freezer. Have been reading your install wow it's a great help especially with all the pictures. Has answered a good few questions I have in the pipeline.

Slightly off topic

How did you attach the feed pipe to the fuel rail. Did you use a Jubilee clip

You are better tapping/splicing as you go, so you don't end up with a large bunch of wires at the ECU termination.

Run one long wire to the furthest injector, then splice in a new short wire to the next injector, joint with whatever you like, but I prefer solder followed by glue lined heatshrink. Then do the next injector until you have finished that bank for either the power or ECU connection. Repeat for other wire for that bank, repeat both steps for other bank.

You should now have 4 wires at the back of the engine, you can join the power wires together as you did at the injectors, leaving three, one power, and the two injector banks for the ECU.

This post actually describes the process pretty well, and gives some general info on soldering wires in an automotive environment, see the section on "Tap Soldering":

http://www.doofclenas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=139041

Ignore the bit about using electrical tape, and actually even silver solder (normal 24-guage electronic stuff is fine), get yourself glue lined heatshrink and it will make the joint much more long lasting and protect it from the elements nicely.

You can do the same with crimps, but they in general more bulky than a tidy soldered joint, and no more reliable in my experience (though others will undoubtedly disagree with me on this!).

Thanks Bowie. That link was a great. Learnt a few new tricks. . Must get myself some solder in maplins.

[FridgeFreezer]

Yes I used jubbly clips on the fuel hose.

Also - crimps work fine but they allow water in, glue lined heat shrink is the business for very sealed joints.

[Bowie69]

glue lined heat shrink is the business for very sealed joints.

Indeed, I was converted a few years back now, from normal heatshrink.

[skauldy]

Ah, I thought you's were just being fancy with the name lol. So there's glue lined heatshrink and then just heatshrink. Can I get it in RS or where's the best place.

Cool, thanks FF. I have some of the oetinker o clips. Look better

[Bowie69]

RS will have it, I get mine on ebay, assorted sizes etc, all good

[FridgeFreezer]

RS sell bags of pre-cut lengths, very handy. I have two sizes - 9:3mm and 12:4mm from memory (it's 3:1 shrink ratio) and that covers most things I've ever needed.

[skauldy]

Great, thanks guys. Platinum buyer at the moment with RS lol

[skauldy]

Depressing when you see a post saying your getting stuck into something and that was the last time you actually done anything on it  

[FridgeFreezer]

Well, crack on then fella!

[skauldy]

Lol  thanks for the shoulder    Took the advice and out in the garage tonight clearing the carp that was sitting on the defender. 

Spemt the day sourcing someone to roll some sheet metal to modify the v8 air box I bought off Nidge. Most crowds said it was too small for them. Gooing over the Clarke 3 in 1 metalworker. Hmm 

[Hybrid_From_Hell]

How many years ???

 

Lol

 

PM me your addy and let me send you the latest build cd ?

[skauldy]

3 years and counting Nige lol,

 

Great, appreciate that, i'll pm ya

 

Shane

[Hybrid_From_Hell]

Got it  

 

Latest CD on its way Monday sir

 

[skauldy]

Looking forward. Hopefully the "injection" (get it  ) I need to get going again  

 

[Hybrid_From_Hell]

Posted ?

[skauldy]

Received it today, thanks Nige. Reading through it now

 

Shane 

[skauldy]

Ok, here we finally go

 

 

[FridgeFreezer]

That's a hell of an RS order, I assume you had the crimpers etc. already?

[Hybrid_From_Hell]

WOWZER ...printed and BOUND the install manual ...get you ! 

[dangerous doug]

good choice on laptop. I bought one recently and have been storming around in the 110 tuning today. I can officially confirm its defender proof

[skauldy]

2 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:

That's a hell of an RS order, I assume you had the crimpers etc. already?

There's more, just didn't want to be a right show off .  Yep had the crimpers from previous jobs. I got a lend of the tyco printer from work  

2 hours ago, Hybrid_From_Hell said:

WOWZER ...printed and BOUND the install manual ...get you ! 

 fail to plan, plan to fail 

2 hours ago, dangerous doug said:

good choice on laptop. I bought one recently and have been storming around in the 110 tuning today. I can officially confirm its defender proof

 I love them, seen a new CF-18 on radionics for 4K , good to know they are defender proof. Was going to use it as my sat nav too 

Edited July 8, 2017 by skauldy