quattro Posted July 4, 2016 Share Posted July 4, 2016 Hi all, I hope I'm allowed on here as I don't have a Land Rover I do however have a Rover V8 engined vehicle and am converting it to Megasquirt Question if I may - where is the best place to put the ECU? Now I can fit it behind the dash up under the fuse box but it isn't going to get any cooling as it will be behind the glove box. It will keep it safe though. Does it get hot in use? It can go under the passenger seat, but it might get kicked. How good is it at taking the odd knock? Or the boot, which means the loom is going to be rather long and cumbersome? Any advice opinion appreciated. Cheers Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted July 4, 2016 Share Posted July 4, 2016 OINK God thats OCD CLEAN !!!!!!!!!!!!!! Somewhere not kicked !! Under Seat but not kickable lol ...no not boot !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quattro Posted July 4, 2016 Author Share Posted July 4, 2016 What do you mean clean? Look a the dust on that exhaust mani? So not up under the dash then? Not quite sure what the 'OINK' means. Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qwakers Posted July 4, 2016 Share Posted July 4, 2016 Hi all, I hope I'm allowed on here as I don't have a Land Rover I do however have a Rover V8 engined vehicle and am converting it to Megasquirt Question if I may - where is the best place to put the ECU? Now I can fit it behind the dash up under the fuse box but it isn't going to get any cooling as it will be behind the glove box. It will keep it safe though. Does it get hot in use? It can go under the passenger seat, but it might get kicked. How good is it at taking the odd knock? Or the boot, which means the loom is going to be rather long and cumbersome? Any advice opinion appreciated. Cheers Richard its ok, we're quite open minded on here.... but only if you post some pics of your car... its the rules!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted July 4, 2016 Share Posted July 4, 2016 Up behind the dash will be fine. Now pics! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cheesy Posted July 4, 2016 Share Posted July 4, 2016 Just make sure you can get the serial cable on easily Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quattro Posted July 4, 2016 Author Share Posted July 4, 2016 Pics eh? This is Sparky when he got drunk one night Bit shiny, with home made tracking device Badges I made Won a prize at a local show You think it's clean now It's even clean underneath That enough Richard 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quagmire Posted July 5, 2016 Share Posted July 5, 2016 Mines in the boot! Works perfick, but is a bother when doing the cable runs... I use Bluetooth though, so no serial cable worries Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted July 5, 2016 Share Posted July 5, 2016 The ECU shouldn't really care, the box won't mind being knocked but the connectors could get damaged so I'd avoid under the seat. One of mine's behind the dash including the EDIS bolted to the top of the case and works fine, although the wiring was a right faff - you need about 10x as much space to do the fitting/wiring as is needed once the thing's actually fitted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted July 5, 2016 Share Posted July 5, 2016 Schweet! The old P6 takes me back a while... mate had a 3500S in the baby-poo brown they did, was a lovely car, he'd fitted a P5B engine to it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quattro Posted July 6, 2016 Author Share Posted July 6, 2016 Couple of little questions As I have changed from the carb manifold, and from the distributor, how do I get the water temp gauge and rev counter to work? I know it's not yet, but if I need to wire something in, I would rather do it with the wiring loom than afterwards Also, in this pic, there are two sensors. I believe the right hand one is a thermontine sensor so I use the rear one. But its a different type to the one in my build manual. So I bought another CTS with the correct type top and the thread is different Any ideas? Cheers Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quattro Posted July 11, 2016 Author Share Posted July 11, 2016 Sorted this now, and have started on the loom. That looks fun Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted July 11, 2016 Share Posted July 11, 2016 If that is insulation tape you will find it just goes all sticky and falls off under engine bay temperatures. Best to leave wrapping it until you have it all wired and working, otherwise you end up pulling it all apart if there is a fault. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quattro Posted July 11, 2016 Author Share Posted July 11, 2016 It's only the end bits I've taped up and no, not insulation tape, it's the loom tape Nige sent with my kit. I've done the last bit on the Lambda wiring as well as that is now in situ under the car, and I wasn't thinking of removing that again for wrapping. Don't panic, it'll work. What could possibly go wrong Have decided on the ECU under the passenger seat now, so I can now start the loom properly. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted July 11, 2016 Share Posted July 11, 2016 Good job then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chazza Posted July 11, 2016 Share Posted July 11, 2016 Have decided on the ECU under the passenger seat now, so I can now start the loom properly. Cheers I remember removing the glovebox on my P6 to do something behind the dash. Is there not room for the ECU there? Cheers Charlie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodumatau Posted July 12, 2016 Share Posted July 12, 2016 Couple of little questions As I have changed from the carb manifold, and from the distributor, how do I get the water temp gauge and rev counter to work? I know it's not yet, but if I need to wire something in, I would rather do it with the wiring loom than afterwards Also, in this pic, there are two sensors. I believe the right hand one is a thermontine sensor so I use the rear one. But its a different type to the one in my build manual. So I bought another CTS with the correct type top and the thread is different Any ideas? Cheers Richard Richard, your temp sensor for the dash gauge is left of your thermostat housing (on the hotwire top end), I ended up changing mine for a VDO gauge and sensor as the vague "cold/hot" gauge in the LR irritated me. I also tried 2 LR sensors which didn't work before I got fed up and put the VDO in. in your picture i think the right hand sensor is your CTS which needs to go to the ECU, same plug as an injector, at least this is how is is with the hotwire intake assembly. so your ECU and dash gauge get their sensor info from two different sources. rev counter I got a "tach fix" little box from Nigel but no instructions which wire to take from the ECU to trigger it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted July 12, 2016 Share Posted July 12, 2016 Your inlet manifold is P38/Disco2 so the small sender is for the dashboard gauge (1/8" NPT, VDO make a sender for that), the two-pin one is the ECU sensor and should be wired as per Nige's diagram. Thermotime switch was only on flapper systems, it was in a similar position to your gauge sender but had 2 pins, the ECU sensor was next to it, still 2-pin in the same place. I got bored of LR gauges & senders not working properly and fitted a VDO Vision gauge & sender on the ambulance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tal Posted July 12, 2016 Share Posted July 12, 2016 I dont recognise anything without a it having a layer of muck, but that upside down one sure looks familiar,,, On that note is the rotating welding cradle one you built or something that can be bought...if you built it do you have plans? That is one very pretty car and I can see you do really awesome work, Good stuff thanks for sharing Tal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quattro Posted July 28, 2016 Author Share Posted July 28, 2016 I dont recognise anything without a it having a layer of muck, but that upside down one sure looks familiar,,, On that note is the rotating welding cradle one you built or something that can be bought...if you built it do you have plans? That is one very pretty car and I can see you do really awesome work, Good stuff thanks for sharing Tal Cheers all, I've been getting on with things, pics later (promise ) I bought the A Frame from ebay Tal. £200 delivered, sold it two years later to a P6 buddy for £120. Not bad, £40 a year Anyhoo, I have a problem which has now stopped me dead in my tracks. Page 50 of Nige's build manual shows the coil pack wiring, and shows the brown and white wire going to '1' on the left hand plug, and says it goes to coil plug "A." But coil plug "A" in the picture is on the right whereas the plug is numbered 1, 2 and 3 from the left. So, are the two pictures (wiring diagram and photo) conflicting? or am I missing something obvious? C & D do the same on the other side. The wiring diagram shows "1" on the plug going to "C" (Brown & Green), but the picture shows them the other way round Just to update, the fuel lines are in, car's off the ramps, ECU is under the passenger seat, and the inside of the car and under the bonnet look like an explosion in a spaghetti factory Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodumatau Posted July 29, 2016 Share Posted July 29, 2016 Richard, I made the same mistake, IGNORE the numbers on the big main wiring diagram.... Use the other one explanation which has the numbers switched around. This other diagram also shows the one high "wing" on the plug which helps you orientate which way around. If you have already wired it up the wrong way around (as I did), you can just swop pin 1&3, the pins come out quite easily if you push a thin enough screwdriver in from the front of the plug. Let me know if you struggle I can send you pics of mine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quattro Posted July 29, 2016 Author Share Posted July 29, 2016 Thanks Bodumatau The large wiring diagram on page 45 is actually the same as the smaller one on page 50, just upside down. The whole explanation is just a bit confusing.There are numbers 1,2 & 3 on the the plugs and numbers 1,2 & 3 on the wiring diagram, but the instructions say ignore all of the numbers on both the coils AND the plugs? The picture showing the Coil packs A & B one way round and the wiring diagram the other way round is also confusing. Is this correct below? Cheers for the help Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quattro Posted July 30, 2016 Author Share Posted July 30, 2016 Update time I had a bit of trouble with this bit. The outlet goes into a pipe which controls the fuel pressure regulator, but the ECU needs a vacuum pipe as well. So there is a T Piece in the kit to split the pipe. After a lot of messing about trying to find which outlet to use, I finally found that there should only be one outlet! So do I split one with the T Piece and if so which one? I ended up taking it off again and finding that both just go straight through to the plenum, so I'll be using one each. Easy when you know, highly confusing and time wasting when you don't Working out a way of mounting the coil packs has taken just far to long, and I must admit to being very glad that I've now done it. The brackets were designed for fitting to a Land Rover and bolt onto the water pump with a small bracket going to the top of the plenum. I drilled a hole into the smaller bracket and bolted it to the manifold. Then made up two brackets and fitted one the a water pump bolt and one to an elongated engine lift bolt. Cut down the supplied bracket and on it went On with the coil packs and jobs a good'un I've managed some of the loom, but more of that later. Tank is back in, all plumbed up with an 8mm copper pipe running to the engine bay, waiting to be connected to the pump. The bracket has the fuel pump relay and a switch which will cut the power if in an accident. Just waiting for some fuses to arrives and that bit can be wired in, Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quattro Posted July 30, 2016 Author Share Posted July 30, 2016 Done some research, apparently it's this way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted July 31, 2016 Share Posted July 31, 2016 The photo is definitely correct as it's my 109 and it was definitely running when I took the photo! Also remember to IGNORE the cylinder numbers printed on the Ford coils, and that the connectors go on "upside-down" to how it feels like they should, so the numbering can seem back-to-front if you're making them up on the bench. Here's the plugs made up correctly: And the EDIS end: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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