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Where to put the ECU?


quattro

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Cheers Fridge Freezer

I have gone with your photo and my last diagram, or exactly opposite to the wiring diagram.

I have spent most of the day crimping, soldering, cutting, stripping, etc.

Hope to have him fired up by next weekend, you never know your luck :)

Richard

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on fridges suggestion I have run a fused switched wire with only a 2A fuse (FF suggested 3A but I couldn't get one) to run the following and it seems to work fine -> ECU power, PWM (Bosch Extra Air valve) and EDIS power

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hmmmm My fuel pump relay runs the fuel pump, lambda and coils, and the main relay runs injectors, EDIS and ECU. I'll bung in a 20W fuse in both, that should sort it :)

Cheers again, waiting for a rumbling sound now :)

Richard

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What's a 20W fuse? :huh:

The risk of fusing the ECU + EDIS 12v from a big fuse is the brains only need milliamps to function so any fault will toast the ECU/EDIS before the fuse blows. All the action (injector/coil current) is ground-switched.

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20A :blush:

I'm following Nige's wiring diagram so I'll still do that, but I can drop a small fuse in the blue/yellow before it splits, 3A should do it.

My main concern is that I have no idea how much power the individual components use.

:)

Richard

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Well I'm running the exact setup posted in that diagram with the same fuse values with no issues. I'd guess different fuel pumps etc. will draw different amounts but the failure mode of those is likely to be a fairly solid short so you've got a bit of leeway on fuses. The ECU brains are a lot more delicate, TBH a transistor can destroy itself before a fuse has even begun to think about blowing but at least low value fuses prevent PCB traces being vaporised and reduce collateral damage!

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  • 3 weeks later...

Quick update :)

All wiring is now done, everything connected where it should be, but not wrapped as yet - will post up some piccies later.

Throttle bracket designed, manufactured and fitted - piccies later.

Petrol in tank, pump working.

One question, why is the throttle spring so heavy? I've may have to look at my contraption to try and increase the leverage, but does the spring return have to be so heavy? It is a lot more powerful than the Weber that it's replacing.

It doesn't start by the way, but I can sort that as soon as I find my electric tester thingummy.

Cheers all

Richard

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I managed to get the wiring finished. Main power for this fuel pump relay comes from the battery, then it feeds the fuel pump, coil packs and lambda. Fuel pipe is also connected, so the work is finished in the boot area.

Boot%20wired_zps5y02di9d.jpg

The D37 plug was not easy, as the wires I was attaching are actually bigger than the holes they need to fit into. So I decided to cut them into a point so I could at least get some of it located.

pointy_zpsb77q11c1.jpg

Made sure I slid a piece of heatshrink onto all of the wires then started soldering until I started making mistakes, then went indoors . Next day, did some more, until all were done. I don't think I'll ever get a job doing this, but they are all solid and heatshrinked, so shouldn't get any shorts.

soldered%20in_zps30prrbvs.jpg

side%201_zps9bmz1i5w.jpg

The instructions say to twist the wires together on the EDIS and don't fix them properly until the engine runs. Also, don't wrap any of the loom until the engine runs, just in case it doesn't. Not very tidy, but I can tidy it all later.

Edis_zps7lttdumd.jpg

Engine bay all wired up and ready. I am not happy with the silicone elbow, it just doesn't look right and I really should have measured that air filter, it is a little on the large size.

engine%20bay_zpszvmzjgi0.jpg

So, all wired up, petrol in the tank, all fuel pipes connected and secure, charged battery, keys in ignition

It didn't start

PS anyone know what these bits are? They were in the kit but I have no idea what they are for?

No%20idea_zpsqclcrgp6.jpg

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Well done! Now the fun of tuning begins :D

Indeed, I haven't got a laptop with a two row serial port though, mine is three row :blush:

I do have an adaptor which I hope will work but as I have left the disc at work (printed out the instruction manual) I can't load it tonight.

I have four wires from the alternator, two large brown/white ones which go to the shunt, a brown/black one which goes to the warning light, and a small brown one which goes to a connection under the drivers side floor (Battery/Starter motor,etc). I put the diode in the brown/black warning light wire, and it just sits there and ticks over all by itself with the ignition key in my pocket! So, I have found elsewhere (can't find it now though) that it should go into the 'sensor wire' which is often brown. So I have rewired it tonight and fitted it into the brown wire; now it stops when I turn the ignition off. I might just try it without this diode, just to check.

I have made up another small bracket to adjust the leverage of the throttle pedal. Now I can use it without putting both feet onto it :i-m_so_happy:

So, progress has been made

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None in the kit, no. I bought one of these

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/222023140746?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Will give it a go tonight, and see what I can get out of the ol' beasty. Problem is, the MOT has run out now, so I'll need it reliable enough to get to an MOT station and back before I can do any road testing.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ok, so the ECU will NOT talk to the 'puter. I have wired everything up to the best of my ability, and checked it all several times now.

I plug the laptop into the ECU via the adaptor in my last post, and start the megatune software. I get 8 dials up, but it says the selected communication port (COM 1) could not be opened, then tells me how to fix it, i.e. try the other ports. I tried all of them up to 25 and none of them work? (I change the post, then click 'test' and every one says, "no response."

I tried it with the Ignition on and off, still doesn't connect.

The lights on the ECU do not light up when I turn the ignition on, is this correct? There has to be power to the ECU as the fuel pump works for a few seconds, then stops, which I believe is right. Also, the engine starts :huh: There are 2 lights on the ECO with the engine running.

Any advice?

Richard

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It'll be your USB to serial adaptor. Do you know how to check in device manager on the computer to see whether the drivers are installed correctly and what number it's been given? If not, go into control panel, administration tools, computer management and you'll find Device Manager. In there, you'll find "Ports (com and lpt)". What do you have listed? If you can't find that, do you have anything listed in "unknown devices"?

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It's under "other devices" and is just called a "USB Serial convertor" however when you click on it, it says the drivers for this device are not installed (Code 28)

:angry2:

So, I have asked it to update driver and it is searching on line for one - been a while doing it though :mellow:

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