IanT90 Posted July 12, 2016 Share Posted July 12, 2016 About a month ago I posted a topic about my intermittent oil warning light coming on. At the time I had checked the oil level and it was okay, so replaced oil pressure switch still no joy. Recommendations from the previous post suggested an oil change and as it was due for a service that was my next option. However, between then and now I've been working on rear brakes etc preparing it for MOT, so the result of the oil change was on the back burner. I changed oil and oil filter, light came on initially as I would expect after a change. Then went off great thought I had sorted it. Driving it to MOT station the other day same problem has come back. I suspect wiring problem somewhere as it has no specific pattern when it comes on. Sometimes goes off when accelerating then back on/off when idling. Other times it stays on for a spell when I am driving then goes off for no reason, when I've braked or even turned a corner. Checked wiring from pressure switch to loom even replaced the spade connector with new. Any words of wisdom or advice ? Regards Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted July 12, 2016 Share Posted July 12, 2016 Which engine Ian? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted July 12, 2016 Share Posted July 12, 2016 Run a by pass wire from the sender to the dash. See if the problem goes away. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanT90 Posted July 12, 2016 Author Share Posted July 12, 2016 Its a 300TDI engine. Like the by-pass wire idea will try it tomorrow, finishing my stint of night shifts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stephencdavies Posted July 13, 2016 Share Posted July 13, 2016 I'd be fitting an oil pressure gauge. you need to know what the oil pressure is like when the light comes on. you can see whether the oil pressure is constant and may indicate a wiring issue. before you do anything else do as Gazzer says. i had a light on all the time on my 200Tdi. i fitted a gauge and saw that the pressure was good. i removed the warning cluster to check but couldnt really see a problem. i then fed a wire from the sender to the light. now the light works as it should. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanT90 Posted July 16, 2016 Author Share Posted July 16, 2016 Funny enough I took the console off thinking straight forward job disconnect wires to the oil warning indication light slip a spade end on and connect the other end to the oil pressure switch. Not that straight forward. The connection is like a multi plug with wires soldered on which plugs into the instrument cluster ? What was interesting though was while the console was off I started the engine light went off, reved the engine still no light. Refitted console no light drove down street it came on again intermittently. Anyway in for welding at moment for the MOT not going well though originally only 3 small sections needed patching. However it appears it needs extensive work on rear cross member and tow bar supports, cost around £250 so oil light is on back burner. Hope it's the wiring though getting expensive keeping this beast on the road :-(. Last thing I need now is cam bearing/cam replacement or oil pump replacement. Thanks for the feedback Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stephencdavies Posted July 17, 2016 Share Posted July 17, 2016 speak to the MOT tester about the lights. i think the new MOT regs says the warning lights have to work. i know that when i had my MOT a few weeks ago the subject came up. i had the same problem as you. the 1st thing i did was bought an after market oil pressure gauge and a T piece. really quick to install. at least then youll see your pressure all of the time. you'll get used to the engine pressure as differing temperatures. like me you can get paranoid about it. i then stripped the warning cluster off and put a tester on the oil warning side of the bulb. i found which side had power when the ignition came on, just like the battery one. i put a wire to a new oil pressure switch straight from the bulb ( bit of fudging ) now it works as it should. i'm not sure what the original wiring fault was , but looking behind the dash at all the messy wiring wasnt worth delving into, all you need is the light to come on at ignition and go off once the engines running. thats what the MOT tester will check for. my mate had the same problem and couldnt suss it, so he wired the oil light into the battery one, so they both go on and ff, BUT he has a pressure gauge to back him up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stephencdavies Posted July 17, 2016 Share Posted July 17, 2016 i just took a look at how i done mine. i traced the wire on the multi plug that goes to the oil switch. i cut the wire off , but long enough to put a connector on the tail that is left on the multi plug. i then traced a new wire through the bulkhead and to the switch. hope this helps if you have to fudge it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim2809 Posted July 17, 2016 Share Posted July 17, 2016 Only the speedo needs to be illuminated for mot. Only other warning light is the ABS if fitted that has to go through a set sequence Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stephencdavies Posted July 17, 2016 Share Posted July 17, 2016 I've just read the new MOT regs. Tims right, my MOT tester mate is wrong. it proves a point that some testers should be challenged. i've just sent my mate a text that puts him right ( mates can do that, i think ) just in case, i might take it somewhere else next year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanT90 Posted July 17, 2016 Author Share Posted July 17, 2016 When It initially failed the oil pressure light was mentioned but only under advisory as was an oil leak. Had a feeling it was a case of cutting the wire not a problem just need to make sure I cut the right one :-) As for pressure gauge any idea on fittings required ? Assume T piece fits into engine with pressure sensor on one side and pipework on the other to the gauge ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted July 17, 2016 Share Posted July 17, 2016 disconnect the wire at the sender , insulate the end and go out for drive , if it comes on you have a wiring fault , if no light on then an oil pressure gauge is in order to see what is going on . Thread iirc is 1/8 " NPT. cheers Steveb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stephencdavies Posted July 17, 2016 Share Posted July 17, 2016 i bought something similar to these. cheap as chips and does the job. there are gauges on the bay that have a sender that does the warning light and pressure. that means you dont have to have the adaptor. worth looking into http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DEFENDER-DISCOVERY-300TDI-200TDI-OIL-PRESSURE-GAUGE-ADAPTOR-MLR-IE-/122021302518?fits=Model%3ADefender&hash=item1c690950f6:g:NK0AAOSwGotWqgyM http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OIL-PRESSURE-GAUGE-DIAL-0-100-PSI-FACE-52mm-2-WITH-SENDER-/290947927681?hash=item43bdd90e81:g:EC0AAOSw~gRVwLaG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanT90 Posted July 18, 2016 Author Share Posted July 18, 2016 Cheers for that should get the old girl back tomorrow first job disconnect the sender see if I get a light. Fingers crossed I do. Like the pressure gauge and sender assume this replaces my oil pressure sensor ? What oil pressure should I be expecting if its okay ie normal ? Assume pressure varies between initial start up and normal driving. Regards ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanT90 Posted July 18, 2016 Author Share Posted July 18, 2016 One last question assume pressure gauge fits in the end of the T piece and pressure switch goes into the side arm of the T piece. Noticed the T piece is for a TD5 assume it fits the 300tdi ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stephencdavies Posted July 18, 2016 Share Posted July 18, 2016 i stuck my switch in the end and the pressure sender on the side. i dont think it matters which one you use. the duel pole senders mean you dont need a T piece or your original switch. one pole is for the dash light switch and the other is for the pressure gauge. i bought the T piece and single pole sender as its all i could find at the time. i have a mud dash so i slipped the wire through the bulk head to there. works great. as for pressure. thats a tricky one. my gauge is Psi. i get 60 when cold and 25 when hot. this is when using 10w/40 oil. i did have 5w/30 in until a few days ago it was 50 when cold and 15 when hot. what ever happens you will see two pressures, one hot and one cold. when you idle with a cold engine the pressure will obviously drop of, but when you rev the engine , the pressure will go back up. this is a good way to see your pump running. you will just get used to where it wants to be. the T piece i sent is for idea only. the one i bought specifically said for Tdi , so best to hunt one down, TBH it was the 1st link i found, just make sure the thread size is correct. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanT90 Posted July 18, 2016 Author Share Posted July 18, 2016 Cheers for the info much appreciated. Picked it up today and TBH they have done a good job on the repairs to the chassis was quite extensive on rear cross member. Anyway I diverse, took it for a spin and the usual intermittent oil light fault occurred, I pulled over and disconnected the wire to sender and set off again. Low and behold the light came on again as if it was still connected, now 99.9% convinced its a wiring fault, This I can sort out thanks to all the advice, will go ahead and fit an oil pressure gauge anyway good back-up. Thanks to everyone who contributed much appreciated. Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanT90 Posted July 21, 2016 Author Share Posted July 21, 2016 Just a quick update tracked the dodgy section of wiring was under the bonnet. Sorted now light goes off and stays off :-) 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted July 21, 2016 Share Posted July 21, 2016 :i-m_so_happy:sorted Steveb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanT90 Posted July 21, 2016 Author Share Posted July 21, 2016 Cheers for the help :-) happy again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted July 22, 2016 Share Posted July 22, 2016 Result. Thanks for the update, nice to see the story ended. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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