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Repairing arches


JST
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If you have managed to rip it once because the tyres are catching (I won't ask how as I am sure you have adjusted the stops etc as you obviously have oversized tyres) then you are likely to do it again.

A glue repair won't work / last and unless you just rivet a patch into place you are looking at replacing the arch. Having said that you can pick them up for under a tenner S/H so no big problem there.

If you are likely to make a habit of it I would trim the arches or replace for a different type.

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Like mpb says, stitching with cable ties is an easy and cheap solution, its how truck arches are repaired. If you want to add some strength to the repair stitch in some industrial conveyor belt rubber behind the join.

Lewis

Also, if anyone has any arch spats for sale then PM me - i need two

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James

If it's the front then I think Dave ( my co driver ;) ) has a pair going cheap. Give him a call if you don't have his number I'll PM it over to you. Not sure if Tony has his number or not.

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Guest diesel_jim

I've stiched mine several times with cable ties.

also another tip:

where the "rip" stops, drill a hole, 7 or 8mm diameter right at the end. it helps stop the rip from spreading any further.

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rears Tony, why you got some?

8mm hole and some cable ties then after retrimming (again) looks like the way fwd.

i am not sure on the retrimming though as both sides are trimmed the same and the other side is fine, maybe the fact that the opposite side rear trailing arm mount was ripped out helped contribute to the problem! its not hit them before anyway (since trimming)

thanks for the advice.

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OK, the plastic arches on a defender that can get caught and rip with tyres catching them on articulation, how do you fix yours?

aradite? glue gun? rivets and backing? - any ideas/suggestions welcome.

Nice if you still have one to repair !!! :(

My r/hand front may have found its way to Exeter by now, Was a bit heavy going into the river, with only 3 wheel brakes !!

And before anyone says, i know,, V8's and water !!

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Tim

Nice to see you again at the weekend. Forgot to look inside your motor to see how you mounted your seats. Did you use the original sliders or did you fabricate new ones?

Hopefully see you again in a couple of months.

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Tim

Nice to see you again at the weekend. Forgot to look inside your motor to see how you mounted your seats. Did you use the original sliders or did you fabricate new ones?

Hopefully see you again in a couple of months.

Mark, the Cobra Monaco S seats, are exactly the same as the Exmoor trim Trakkers Monaco Seat so to make life easy !! I used some of their sub frames along with the Runners

probably in hindsight the bitch's seat did not need the runners, but I have to look after the old git, as Victor is no spring chicken any more !! :P

I have found them very good, and would fit again, work well,

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Tim

Cheers for the quick reply. Just found out that there is a backlog of orders so will have to wait an extra 7 days for mine to arrive :angry: So I now have to do jobs in the house for the Long Haired General.

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I have glued patches on the underside which works well and doesn't show like holes and cable ties do.

One of the best glues would be an exterior 'no more nails' type construction adhesive. I used a thin piece of aluminium bent to shape as a backing piece, but a sheet of fairly stiff plastic might work well.

Regards,

Diff

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Tim

Cheers for the quick reply. Just found out that there is a backlog of orders so will have to wait an extra 7 days for mine to arrive :angry: So I now have to do jobs in the house for the Long Haired General.

Walfy, I've got exactly the same setup as Tim and it works well. I'm not particularly tall so I also spaced the seat up about 30mm at the back, 15mm at the front.

James, annother thing that can help prevent damage is to remove the plastic rivets that hold the arches on and replace them with cable ties. That way if you catch something the arch just gets ripped off and can be slung in the back of the truck.

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