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Broken rear calliper bolt

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So I just got myself a second hand discovery 300Tdi axle and planned to fit it to my 1986 Defender. My plan was to strip it all down, do the seals and brakes and stuff before fitting it. However removing the callipers caused some issues. Got one side off all okay however the other side isn't playing ball. The bolts have now snapped, leaving some left over bits stuck in the axle.

Ive tried drilling them and using a nut remover which didn't work, it just seemed to remove the cutting edge from the removing tool. Ive tried loads of heat (it is just a blow torch and can't say its ever turned orange or red), do I maybe need something a little stronger?

Obviously tried loads and loads of oil and stuff as well.

Any help would be amazing since I don't want my "new" axle to become a paper weight!



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if you have a welder, weld a bolt to it, it should just need a tack weld. you may get away with placing a nut over whats left and tack that too. when you say you drilled and tried to use a removal tool, i guess you mean one of those reverse screw type things. in the past ive managed to remove a stud by drilling into it and sacrificing a male star socket. all those cheap screw driver sets have them.if you can whack one of those in, you might just get enough on it to get it out, also before you try to undo it, try to nip it up 1st. that may break any rust thats holding it tight.

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I had stubborn bolt on one of my calipers stars had rusted away.

Cut most of the old caliper off with angle grinder the kept heating and cooling with oil inbetween did this for half an hour then hammered an old socket on got an initial 1/4 turn then seized so let it cool oil again etc took me hour and half in total but eventually got it off.

Not as bad as your problem but tip is small turns let it cool friction of undoing heats it and it expands again.

Two options completely drill it out and re-tap the thread.

Second dill pilot hole smaller than original bolt fit a sacrificial hexagonal head bolt in the hole then tack weld each end to original bolt or what remains then try the heat cool oil trick.

Its the cooling thats important thats what breaks the rust holding the thread in place heating alone only works with two disimilar metals with different thermal expansion coefficients. When the metals are the same they generally expand at same rate the rust being an oxidised metal tends to fracture and loosen during the cooling thats when you use oil in the space friction of undoing soon closes gaps again so slowly slowly.

Sorry if I am teaching my grandmother to suck eggs. Its an old fitter technique I was taught. Another tip was use cold water as lubricant never used that one. Good luck ian

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