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Lying under the vehicle whilst doing the 500 mile oil change on the newly rebuilt engine I noticed a slight sheen around the wading plug hole. Doing the touch and sniff test revealed a strong diesel smell which I assume indicates failure of the fuel injection pump driveshaft seal?

My other question is given that diesel hardly pouring out of the pump if I pull my finger out and get the seal changed pronto can I get away without changing the timing belt?

Given it's a Dayco belt with only 500 miles or so on it I really hope the answers no!

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You can time up the pump and then lock the shaft by removing a spacer on the side of the pump and winding in the bolt. With belt and dproken removed you may be able to do it without removing the pump. Ive never done a front seal and assume it can be removed from the outside without the need to strip the pump apart

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The writeup is for a 2.5NA. I do not believe that this method works on a 200TDI. The injection pump does not have a seal like that. In addition the flange is not keyed. If you pull it off, you will be screwed on the timing.

i thourght the 200tdi has a bolt and a spacer on the side? set pump timing, slacken bolt to remove shim and nip bolt bolt up which holds timing set? we took a (non lr VE) pump to the injecter specilist in swindon who replaced just the nose seal for us. did a good job and cheap. les also highly reccomends him.

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i thourght the 200tdi has a bolt and a spacer on the side? set pump timing, slacken bolt to remove shim and nip bolt bolt up which holds timing set? we took a (non lr VE) pump to the injecter specilist in swindon who replaced just the nose seal for us. did a good job and cheap. les also highly reccomends him.

Yes, but when you remove the flange from the shaft, there is no way to ensure it is installed in the same position as there is no key on the shaft. You might be close, but you should set with a DTI. On a Defender engine, the pump needs to come off as there is no room to install the DTI.

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Providing the sprocket stays tight on the shaft when you remove the bolt you can scribe a line from the end of the shaft and onto the sprocket with something suitable, such as a carbon tipped scriber. The scribed line will be approx. 1/4mm thick, so as long as you have good eyesight and take care when reassembling. The sprocket will be in the same position relative to the shaft.

Les.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Thanks for all the good advice.

I'm now in the process of changing the seal and obviously the pump sprocket had to come off. I've tried searching the usual places i.e. the manual and the internet but I cant find the torque for the sprocket retaining nut anywhere.

Any advice will be gratefully received.

PS. I have a DTI and I bought a cheap adapter of e-bay to fit it to the back FIP so I should be able to time it OK.

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Thanks for all the good advice.

I'm now in the process of changing the seal and obviously the pump sprocket had to come off. I've tried searching the usual places i.e. the manual and the internet but I cant find the torque for the sprocket retaining nut anywhere.

Any advice will be gratefully received.

PS. I have a DTI and I bought a cheap adapter of e-bay to fit it to the back FIP so I should be able to time it OK.

talk to your nearest Bosch diesel injection agent, have a look in your local phone book,

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Good idea but being impatient I managed to find a manual for the Denso built version of the Bosch VE pump online which gave me a sensible value for the torque.

Having got the pump off the vehicle I managed to set the timing with a DTI and the adapter you can't fit with the pump on the engine. It might be wishful thinking after all the work but the engine seems to be slightly quieter and with noticeably better drive ability after setting the pump timing more accurately.

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