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Ultimaker 3D Printer on eBay


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Slightly OT - but I've printed a surprising number of LR parts on mine!

I found this, this morning. It's listed as 'Spares or Repair' - but as the seller says, it would be very easy to put back to working. All spares are available.

My Ultimaker 2 has been fantastic. I look at other printers every so often, but I've not found one yet which beats it sufficiently to change.

This might make a cheap, 1st class printer for one of you.


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They're fine for mounting things like gauges and mobiles, covering things, switch surrounds etc. They won't hold an engine in place. The PLA isn't weatherproof but the ABS etc is.

I've made connection block covers for classic cars because you can't get them for example. You can also get it metal plated, I've had awards plated in brass before for example. It's common for formula1 to 3D print things and metal plate them stiffer for wind tunnel development.

What do you want to make?

Numberplate mounts;


Ipad holder (made in several pieces with t&g joints);







LED holder thing;


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I've mostly used mine for mechanical components - gears, pulleys, washers, enclosures plus a few phone holders and light duty things. I've recently printed a friction drive Bike motor & battery enclosure - and there is a lot of force going through that.

If you print in one of the higher temperature materials - ABS, HIPS, Polycarbonate, Nylon they are really strong. You can achieve up to about 80% of the strength of the raw material if it were cast into the same shape.

Gone are the days where you could only make models.

Where it's not strong enough, I've used it very successfully to make moulds for castable resin, PU or Silicone.


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I've used mine for a mixture of parts, from custom enclosures for electronics and controls to repair pieces that need structural strength. The choice of material, the design, the setup of the printer and the orientation of the print can all effect the strength of the finished item. So far the part that has the most force exerted on it was a replacement joint for a camping chair. The original snapped and I printed a replacement from ABS and, having seen where the original ABS part had failed, I made sure that I reinforced the design in those areas.

I don't know much about the Ultimaker, I've only used a cheap sub £200 one, but that doesn't look a bad price assuming that it's got a quality print head and doesn't need a new set of bearings etc... The reversed motor is probably just a software issue, it may have been flashed with an incorrect setting. I've spent around £100 upgrading my £200 printer with auto bed levelling, dual high quality (E3D) hotends and lead screws instead of threaded bar so assuming that the Ultimaker has a similar quality it won't be a bad option.

Some of my creations...

End caps for the bars that support the tent on my trailer conversion

Enclosure for my dual fuel tank and dual battery monitor

Bonnet vent

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I like the vent :)

The best thing about them is you can generally set them going and walk away so although they take a long time it's unmanned. Also it automatically leads you to design in an efficient way as it's quicker / cheaper to add less material rather than say milling where the more material you take away the longer it takes and it's no effort to put in rads etc as your not having to change cutters etc.

Its something I haven't entirely successfully managed with CNC milling yet, if I'm brave enough to wander off I usually go back to a broken cutter or a misshapen collet :angry2:

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The motor running backwards is likely to be that Ultimaker 2+ firmware has been loaded on to the printer (which is fine, it's what I use) but he has set the machine as 2+ in the driver software (Cura) rather than 2. On the 2+, the feed motor runs the other way!

The print nozzle assembly is worth replacing anyway with an 'Olsen Block' Also one of these if you are printing at high temperatures a lot: http://3dsolex.com/i2k-insulator. The Olssen Block makes it easier to change nozzles (and unblock them occasionally). The 'JET' Nozzles for the Olssen block from 3D Solex are really good too.

Bearings tend not to be an issue. The belts wear a little but can be re-tensioned. It uses an ACME screw for the Z axis and although not a ball-screw, it is precision ground and I doubt a ball screw would give better results.

If you want to print in flexible materials, print one of these first in PLA https://www.youmagine.com/designs/alternative-um2-feeder-version-two%C2'> It's much better than the original feeder for difficult (in fact all) materials.

The Ultimaker 2 is my 5th 3D Printer - and I've also had it the longest of any of them. I've just not found a replacement printer which is sufficiently better to justify the change - and I have looked extensively. My printer has over 3000 Hours printing on it - and it still works as well as a new one with only a couple of tweaks along the way.


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The motor running backwards is likely to be that Ultimaker 2+ firmware has been loaded on to the printer (which is fine, it's what I use) but he has set the machine as 2+ in the driver software (Cura) rather than 2. On the 2+, the feed motor runs the other way!

aha, very interesting info.

I may just bid on that then. can i suggest if anyone else from here is going to bid, we communicate? No point in us bidding against each other,

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