Expert help Required

[Snagger]

Dave, all that black rubbish in the timing case is not external dirt, it's the rubber from the belt with small amounts of oil, fuel or water that has entered the case. Frankly, I'd expect more in the 19J case. That said, if there is a huge amount, then the belt probably wasn't changed on schedule.

[skirky dave]

Cheers Snagger,

Any ideas/answers on the other two problems. ...I've managed to get the crankshaft pulley bolt off BUT not the actual wheel. There are two threaded holes drilled into the wheel, do i find a couple of bolts and fasten/tighten them in so the pulley wheel gets pushed off its shaft??.

[Snagger]

Those bolt holes would best be used with high tensile bolts passed through a bar over the end of the pulley bolt forming an impromptu puller - you would unwind the pulley bolt to force the bar and thus pulley away from the timing case.

[skirky dave]

OK, ISH...Kinda see what you mean. i'll give it a go.

I may be asking you again if this doesn't go to plan !!!.

Here goes.

[skirky dave]

Snagger..........................It's off.

I used 2 high tenstile bolts with 13mm heads and just turned them 1/2 a turn each time until the sprocket popped off. Thank you!

I've taken a few pics about this entire job thus far and shall try to upload them when i see my son....(not a computer person myself, rubbish).

Time for quick ham sandwich and cuppa, and then back to it.

Next job..to take off the brake boost vacuum pump thingy on the engine.

Then i'm pretty close to taking off the chest, (he say's quietly). Famous last words in the world of Landy's.

Hope this doesn't hold any nasty surprises !!.

[skirky dave]

Right, that's the brake vacuum pump off. 3 allen keys and that's all. Seems to work on nothing more than a cam and only fits one way, so..no problems there. But had to borrow a set of what can only be described as VERY long allen keys, 6mm , and 5inch long.

Les ,.. mentioned the Dayco timing belt (which is a very good belt) but it also comes as a kit, complete with the belt tensioner.

My question is this,..is the tensioner made by Dayco and are they reliable or do i buy the tensioner unit off ebay, Genuine Land Rover new/old stock timing belt tensioner, and the belt separately. Price wise, i don't there's much in it. I'm just hell bent on doing this job correctly and taking my time as i have no wish to do this job again anytime soon.

Once parts are ordered i can concentrate on the top end, and sort that out, ( Push rods etc).

Advice/opinions appreciated.

Dave.

[Snagger]

Dayco made the belts for LR. You can buy LR labelled belts and kit, but you'll pay four times as much for the same quality. Do not buy Britpart unless you know they are providing LR or Dayco branded parts (not unbranded or Britpart branded).

The 12 and 19J used a cylindrical vacuum pump on the right side of the block. It is a rotational pump driven by a skew gear from the cam shaft. This was carried over to the 200Tdi, using the same cam shaft, skew gear and pump. The 300Tdi uses a plunger type pump (like a spring loaded syringe) operated by an extra lobe on the cam shaft. I don't know which you have, but Id expect it to be the former.

[skirky dave]

Snagger,

Yep, the cylindrical pump that you describe is the same on BOTH the 15J Sherpa as it is on the 19J donor engine. The first thing i did yesterday was to check and walla, great joy!. Identical.

Great when someone else has the knowledge.

Cheers mate, appreciate it.

Dave.

[skirky dave]

The timing belt has been ordered ( Dayco as suggested along with Bearmach tensioner..as a kit £40 ish) hope the tensioner is going to be ok !!

.

Next thing i'm after though,is, NON viscous water pump STC 637 but all i can find is Britpart.

Not keen on Viscous fan at all, too many problems for me.

Anyone know of a supplier of said part?.

Dave.

[pete3000]

Would DC's water pump housing fit from this thread, he ordered a non-viscous by accident. Not sure if it will fit or he still has it and wants to part with it. Or at least had a source and a number.?

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=98823&page=9

Pete

[skirky dave]

Hi Pete,

Many thanks for the heads up regarding the link/ post.

I've got a mate who says he can get his hands on a couple of different pumps. 3-4 i think. he's going to bring them round so we can have a look. By all accounts their all ok but one should fit.

Problem is...most of the pumps are made by Britpart these days unless you want to spend ££££ on genuine as Snagger stated in a previous post earlier.

I certainly don't have that kind of £ to throw at it just yet.

It would be interesting to find out peoples views/ opinions regarding the Britpumps.

But cheers mate for letting me know.

Dave.

[Bowie69]

Britpart pumps last anywhere between 200 and 2000 miles.

[pete3000]

https://www.thexmod.com/item_detail.asp?id=11204

not sure if this is britpart £60

[Les Henson]

I fitted a britpart pump for a customer and within a week it was toast. He overheated on the motorway so pulled over and as he did so the nost of the pump - complete with pully still bolted to it - clattered a few feet further along the hard shoulder.

Les

[Bowie69]

Good advert there Les

[skirky dave]

Pete,

Thanks for that mate, much appreciated. I'll give them a call.Just in case my mates water pumps have a problem.

Les,..Please don't go buying them all up. I REALLY REALLY NEED one.

Thanks for the info Les regarding the super high quality of the Britpart pump, i shall definitely be leaving those alone.

Bowie69..Cheers mate.

Thanks guys

Dave.

[skirky dave]

Has anyone got any ideas how the lower outer crank oil seal fits into the rear part of the chest. (THAT FITS ON..the engine, NOT the cover)

Just destroyed one and i was taking my time with it

I've found a few threads and a video taking one off, but can't find any info regarding the replacement of the seal.

Maybe if someone to lead me to a video or pictures,..I would be very greatful.

Cheers guys

Dave.

[Les Henson]

Make sure the nose of the crank is clean as well as the machined housing where the seal fits. Lightly grease the housing and the outer edge of the seal as well as the lip. Gently tap the seal in (it'll only go so far but make sure it's square and you don't damage it while fitting). When you fit the crank sprocket put a thin film of grease on the land (the part of the sprocket that sits in the seal) See this thread - http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=7880

Les

[skirky dave]

Les,

That's FANTASTIC, thank you very, very very much.

Excellent. And what great pictures to follow and understand.

A masterclass indeed. This is going on my bookmarks bar!!!.

So just to get this clear, you lightly grease the lip of the seal and the aperture it sit in and gently tap it in. Do you place a flat piece of wood over the top of the seal to do this whildt tapping it in or use something else. MUST MENTION..the chest is NOT fastened to the engine at the moment. Hopefully, that's a job for tomorrow. Along with the seal if i can get hold of one. If not...Friday.

Cheers For that Les

Dave

[Les Henson]

With the chest off the best thing to use is a socket or similar of a slightly smaller diameter.

Les

[skirky dave]

Right you are Les, we'll do. thank you.

On another note,..A mate of mine has given me a gasket kit which is larger than the head gasket kit. This one has all sorts in it,,PLUS RUBBER ( O ) RINGS but it is for the 2.5 N/A diesel.

There are 2, cork ( L ) Shaped seals,..Any ideas as to what or where they go. Some of the seals i'm ok with but there's no key diagram as to what or where these go. Bit of a guessing game really and i would hate to forget/miss one.

Can't believe they would put a gasket set together with no information as to where the seals-gaskets-O rings go.

Many thanks Les

Dave.

[Les Henson]

The cork L-shaped gaskets are for the rear crankshaft, so unless you are going to dismantle the entire engine - you don't need them. In my experience there are never instructions or even a list of the contents of any kit.

Les

[skirky dave]

Many thanks again Les.

At least that eliminates the cork gaskets. I suppose if your doing this kind of job by profession as a mechanic, or someone with years of experience stripping these down and putting them back together as a hobby,then, it becomes second nature., It's a learning curve but i shall get there. Maybe not as quick as some but eventually the job will be finished.

Cheers again Les.

Dave.

[skirky dave]

Hi guys,

Just to give those that might be interested a heads up on progress so far,..

The weather has been a pain over the last few days but so has my IBS.

My main problem has been the diesel fuel pump getting in the way of the engines rubber mounting ( fits to the engine ).

I didn't want to remove the engine and start cutting away the chassis leg. No portable engine hoist for one thing and every penny is going into other things at the moment.

Anyway...i came up with a plan.

I thought to myself...if i can make an semi permanent chassis add on to the existing chassis leg AND then make the ENGINE'S bracket longer by making one from scratch, in other words being able to remove them at any time should i ever get hold of a rebuilt 2.25, then the 2.25 would just drop straight in without having to cut of legs and re/weld them back into place.

This way the the fuel pump clears the chassis leg AND the rubber mount by 1/2 -3/4 of an inch.

Took a bit of thinking about but it's coming together pretty much ok.

Pics to follow HOPEFULLY if and when my son has a few seconds to spare.

Dave.

[Snagger]

2.5 mounts fit 2.25 blocks, so you wouldn't need to do anything to convert back to 2.25.