Expert help Required

[skirky dave]

Hi Fridge,

Mmmm i know , but it was free and had no more steel available. Plus i wanted to make sure it was going to hold ok, Welding was done at 160 amp with 3mm rods. Still learning mate.

[skirky dave]

Ok, plate now in place. Time to start with bracket.

[skirky dave]

Pieces cut and just spot welded in place in case  the angle was slightly on the cockle, ...and holding these in place was a real pain as the next image shows.

[skirky dave]

Trying to keep things together whilst square was a royal pain without proper tools, and the use of the extra length of chanel bar was invaluable here.

[skirky dave]

I took a rough measurement of the engine mounts thread and added a few mills for good measure. I used a slitting disc for the initial cut but then a standard disc at the top end. This was to create a stopper so the engine mounts thread coudn't go any further. It also allowed me slide the mount a few mills for adjustment.

[skirky dave]

This was welded on the inner and outer parts and although look really rough at the moment,  they were cleaned and fettled later with the surface grinder.

The next images are of the engine's bracket.

[skirky dave]

The engine bracket was was quite easy. just a case of measuring the engines bolt holes and dropping the bracket by 2 1/2 inches to allow the engine to drop into the locating holes. The only tricky part was making sure the diesel pump was well clear of the chasis. 

[skirky dave]

The chassis mount was now allowed to slide into place so when the engine was lowered, it fit /slid into it's final resting place. Once all pieces had been checked and double checked for clearance the final welding and shaping of said parts were completed.

[skirky dave]

Further image of the total travel available, so as to get the rubber mount into position.This was important so i could get a good or very close estimate as to the correct resting point of both the engine mount and chassis mount.

[skirky dave]

Sorry about the picture quality here, the sun was a real pain at the time.

Here you can see ALL parts in position and bolted into place with High Tenstile Bolts, and...instead of painting the mounts i simply covered them all with 80 year old super thick heavy grease, which was used on steam and early diesel trains in Doncaster.

This sticks and remains in place even after a good hosing down with the hose pipe, Really good grease this. I haven't seen this sold anywhere

When the time comes to change the engine mount, it's just a case of loosening the bolts as usual but then sliding the plate out of the way along with the two bolts fastening the plate to the chassis outrigger and away you go.

Should i wish to replace the engine with a re built 2 1/4 , the engine will simply fit in situ on it's existing chassis leg mount.

So in effect i have the best of both.

Thanks for looking 

Dave.

[GW8IZR]

16 minutes ago, skirky dave said:

i simply covered them all with 80 year old super thick heavy grease, which was used on steam and early diesel trains in Doncaster.

In my apprentice days I sloshed gallons of the stuff on quadrants, point cranks and locking frames ;-)

[skirky dave]

GW8IZR eh up mate,

It was one of my elderly neighbours that let me have 6 large tins of it. He used to work with his father as an engineer in the railway shacks, as they called them. By all accounts the Flying Scotsman was or had something to do with the railways in Doncaster. Old school grease apparently. I can see why.

 

[Bowie69]

Worthy of Nige

[GW8IZR]

1 hour ago, skirky dave said:

GW8IZR eh up mate,

It was one of my elderly neighbours that let me have 6 large tins of it. He used to work with his father as an engineer in the railway shacks, as they called them. By all accounts the Flying Scotsman was or had something to do with the railways in Doncaster. Old school grease apparently. I can see why.

 

 

I cant remember the name of the stuff - It was Shell Retinax but that is a wheel bearing grease and the stuff we used was Retinax something or other, which was slightly different. It was exactly the colour in your picture until it had been exposed to the sun and dirt whereupon it turned a filthy black colour - but scrape it off and the metal underneath was like new. I left the railway at the end of my time some thirty five years ago and used up the last dregs of a pot of the stuff maybe two years ago.. excellent stuff. :-)

 

[skirky dave]

I have a tin of wheel bearing grease from Halfords, bought a couple of years ago, BUT..  and all things being equal, the same size tin of this  old school grease is far heavier. It's a lot denser. Which brings about the question,..I wonder if it's ok for wheel bearings, Thing is, i don't know what the melting temp would be.

[skirky dave]

Bowie69 eh up

Worthy of Nige ????

[GW8IZR]

I used Retinax railway axle grease in a wheel bearing on my Austin Cambridge and it failed - I was working on a project which was a detector for hot axle boxes. The designer was Hawker Siddley and they shipped a clever bloke in from Germany to help us. We spoke of the reasons for failure in railway axle bearings and his opinion was the grease was designed for very high load but was to be used in applications where it was not allowed to shear. Overfilled axle boxes and hence bearings (too much grease) would cause shear and overheating. In the discussion about my car wheel bearing he felt the bearing was too small and the grease was not suitable. Maybe it wasn't suitable or maybe I over greased it - I would have intuitively thought you couldn't have too much grease but since then I've only ever used a small (correct) amount of grease in wheel bearings and never had a failure.

But a layer of that stuff on a tow ball coupling works really well until you get it on your trousers, then the car seat, then the furniture in the house, then the wife............

 

[skirky dave]

GW8IZR

Morning,..Yep your spot on regarding that stuff. I even greased up the bonnet latch/ catch and fittings , which, sometimes comes back to bite me in the backside every time i lift the bonnet i seem to get a smear of the stuff in my hair. ( makes brylcream look stupid).  All accelerator linkages, cable,nuts and bolts.

I have to admit,,that i don't know that much about the different applications of grease, it becomes a bit of a science,as you describe above, loads, shear weights etc etc,. 

I was reading an article somewhere, where their's a mention of something called JCB Blue grease being used for wheel bearings as it's supposed to be very good. Repels water, good at high temperature, etc. Might get some of this, as the front axle could do with a service. I like to service the Land Rover in the summer so when winter comes, it's ready. 

Its raining here at the moment and the forecast is for much of the same for the duration of the week, so when it stops i shall take some more images of the engine / chassis bracket i made, showing the overall clearance of the diesel pump. ( which i forget to take ) !!!.