Transfer box reconditioning - DIY?

[reb78]

Overdrives are only available for 1.4:1 LT230s, not 1.22:1, irrespective of the tooth geometry.

I think you could get them for 1.2s when GKN were making their units, but the input gears will be like hens teeth now.

My query was really to determine whether my TD5 box (currently fitted) has any real advantage over my original one from 1989. I didnt think that the TD5 unit would be quieter unless it was a Q version and if it was, then i dont think my OD would fit it?

[reb78]

To save starting a new topic I have a couple of related questions....

I have a number of transfer boxes on the floor including a late TD5 disco one without the difflock mechanism. I am hoping to rebuilt a good box using the internals from the TD5 box (Q gears???) into an earlier case with a difflock fitted. Is this possible to do?

This will be to replace current box on the 110 which is starting to leak quite badly from around the slaked nut. Is there a temporary fix for this without removing the box from the car?

I removed the nut on mine, counting the turns etc and then stuck some RTV under it to try to stem the flow from the leak you are experiencing. It kind of worked! But yes, you can do it without removing it for the time being.

I dont know the answer to whether you can swap the internals.

[monkie]

Really interesting thread Richard, I've been thinking for quite a while about stripping down my leaking LT77 and was going to look at my transfer box while I was there - I haven't plucked up the courage to start messing around with either yet! When I did my engine swap recently there was a hell of alot of play on the input shaft. I think its jointly the fear of all the parts springing out onto the floor that has been putting me off and the more rational fear of realising I haven't got the right puller or other tools halfway through stripping it down!

Have you seen Trailer fitter's video on stripping down an LT230?

plus there is this on here about rebuilding the LT77

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=52887

[reb78]

Thanks Phil,

I hadnt seen Trailerfitters videos. They are dead handy.

So preload is set on the intermediate gear bearings with all three gearsets in place. I'm half tempted to just take the intermediate shaft out for now, replace the o rings and then check the preload. But then if i know my luck, as Mo pointed out earlier, this will result in having to drop it all again to recon it sometime after the rain starts next year!

Also - how do you determine if the intermediate shaft hole in the casing needs sleeving? I know if the holes gone oval, it could be obvious, but could it be too subtle to see by eye and if so, what is the best way of assessing this?

[vulcan bomber]

Do you have s vernier caliper?

[reb78]

Yep. I don't know if they'll be accurate enough to pick up small differences? I suppose that if they're that small, it's fine.

[Bowie69]

For that kind of thing, I find something like the middle one of these sets quite useful: http://www.screwfix.com/p/laser-calliper-divider-set-3pc/20030?kpid=20030&cm_mmc=Google-_-Product%20Listing%20Ads-_-Sales%20Tracking-_-sales%20tracking%20url&gclid=CjwKEAjwxeq9BRDDh4_MheOnvAESJABZ4VTqMwOp8E06ZZDyMuD_hER4m8kaVKX00_LkRS1H4Zdk5hoCBdbw_wcB

Set it, spin it round the hole.

Perhaps buy a better one than that